Cam for torque question

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It was comented by him that the 360 he was getting was with a forged crank. Just thought that the seller was pulling his leg!
 

Yup, he said he thought it was a forged crank but it's not. Said a mechanic at his logging shop told him it probably was because it was a truck motor...well, we all know the answer to that. It is however a clean looking factory diameter cast crank.
 
QuickDart360 said:
Cast cranks are fine. Aftermarket eagle cast cranks suck! But stock chrysler cranks are fairly descent. Never heard of one break yet.
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Hahaha, I think my eyes are getting bigger than my bank account... I'll probably go for a stroker kit, internally balanced. Don't really think H beams are necessary but I would like to spray at some point so I want a strong bottom end.
 
I've been trying to verify correct piston compression height for a 4" stroke in a block that is decked .020.
That would give me a deck height of 9.580. If I'm figuring correctly, a 1.457 ch piston should be right close to Zero deck if not + a couple of thousandths??? If that's true I guess I'll need dished pistons to keep the compression reasonable for pump gas.
 
lomchivok said:
I've been trying to verify correct piston compression height for a 4" stroke in a block that is decked .020.
That would give me a deck height of 9.580. If I'm figuring correctly, a 1.457 ch piston should be right close to Zero deck if not + a couple of thousandths??? If that's true I guess I'll need dished pistons to keep the compression reasonable for pump gas.
Click to expand...
I'm running 0 deck 4" stroker with a flat top and RHS 2.02 head. My compression is 12.75 so yes it will need to be a dished piston.
 
Cudafever said:
I'm running 0 deck 4" stroker with a flat top and RHS 2.02 head. My compression is 12.75 so yes it will need to be a dished piston.
Click to expand...
Do you recall what the Compression Height of the piston is you used and how much you milled the deck?
 
Taking the block to my machinist today for a checkup....then I'll know!
 
lomchivok said:
Do you recall what the Compression Height of the piston is you used and how much you milled the deck?
Click to expand...
I wish i did.
I took it to my machinist and told him i wanted "0" deck "square" and i wanted 12.5 compression with a 62 cc combustion chamber. And all forged bottom end that would hold 8000 rpm.
He purchased and machined and balanced all the bottom end. and i assembled. My "0" deck ended up being proud 1-1/2 thou
And that my friend, is what i would recommend to you.

They know what kits are crap and what are good! I told them where i was going to get my stroker kit, and he told me that they could get a better kit for around the same price. So i let him!
The only regret is that i should have gave up some HP and when with a 10:1 motor so i don't have to buy my fuel by the 55 Gal Drum. That's the only thing i would do different if i was to do it all over again.
 
lomchivok said:
Taking the block to my machinist today for a checkup....then I'll know!
Click to expand...


First off, there are many variables to say I took .020 off the deck and now I have zero deck. Most blocks are taller then the 9.560 the factory said.

Also depends on if the rods are exactly 6.123 long, and many are not. It doesn't matter really because you can correct it by decking, unless they are long, and usually they are short.

Compression height is sometimes not spot on. I won't say the manufacturer but at some point, they dropped the pin by .015 for a shelf part number. So I had 4 Pistons that were shorter. Just diced on side .015 more and I'm sure the holier than thou on here would not approve. Wouldn't do it for a customer, but for me, it was the quickest way to get it up and running.

If by some wild circumstance, you buy a kit and the piston comes out of the block, don't sweat it. As long as you have a dish to keep the CR where you want it, you can run the piston out of the hole. Just use a thicker gasket to set the quench. With 62 cc chambers you not have an issue getting CR.


All that said, I'm damn glad you got what you wanted. Must have wanted it pretty bad to drive that far in the snow!!!!!

Keep us posted. I want to see how it turns out. 720 miles in the snow!!!!! That's a long way to go for sex, let alone an engine!
 
yellow rose said:
Keep us posted. I want to see how it turns out. 720 miles in the snow!!!!! That's a long way to go for sex, let alone an engine!
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Hehehe...it sure is...it will be like sex every time I mash the gas...I didn't hit snow till about Salem.

Just got back from the machine shop. Measured the deck and the .020 cut on the deck the previous owner did brought it to 9.600...so the deck was actually 9.620.
I'm looking for a rotating assembly now and would like to use Skat crank and rods with Mahle forged slugs. with the 62 cc heads, should be about 10.5:1 ish....The ball is rolling....
I beat a buddy by 1/2 a car length with his 350/350 chebby...he swears my 318 is stroked...nope just stronger than his 350. Now he's stroking his 350 to 383...so...I'm stroking my 360 to 410...hehehe...should beat him by 2 car lengths this time...sorry Scoob...
 
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Please Opine Yellow Rose, All input is appreciated. I'm here to learn.
I can throw a $60,000 rebuild into a Canco Model 4 Fish Filler/Cutter or a Canco 402-3V Seamer/Clincher or even a Continental P4 Steam flow Seamer in my sleep. Putting together a motor is the easy part. Selecting the correct parts is where I am lacking.
 
lomchivok said:
Please Opine Yellow Rose, All input is appreciated. I'm here to learn.
I can throw a $60,000 rebuild into a Canco Model 4 Fish Filler/Cutter or a Canco 402-3V Seamer/Clincher or even a Continental P4 Steam flow Seamer in my sleep. Putting together a motor is the easy part. Selecting the correct parts is where I am lacking.
Click to expand...


Disregard my dislike on your post. My fat finger bumped the thing while I was scrolling down the page.

There wasn't anything in your post to dislike. Damn this screen is touchy.
 
lomchivok said:
I can throw a $60,000 rebuild into a Canco Model 4 Fish Filler/Cutter or a Canco 402-3V Seamer/Clincher or even a Continental P4 Steam flow Seamer in my sleep.
Click to expand...

Here's a video of a Canco model 4 Cutter/Filler..A Canco Curler Clincher and a Canco 300 Vac Seamer.
These are the machinery that I rebuild...long way from a mopar...awww heck, they're both just nuts and bolts.


They run em at about 240 cans per min....4 cans a second. These are 301 x 408 cans or 1 lb cans.
 
I love all kinds of machinery like that. Worked on some printing presses (Heidelberg 4 and 5 color perfectors), lots of stuff and the brewery and a web press I detested.

All cool stuff.
 
Your web press and my curler clincher...sounds like they travel in the same circle.
The clincher is the bane of the salmon canning industry. If a defect is found in the container seam, it will most likely be caused at assembly by the picker finger in the clincher lid feed...the seamer just accentuates the defect. At the end of the line you will see a gold round machine. That's a can guard, a small machine that costs $220,000...There is only 1 manufacturer... Won Chong, Richmond BC Canada... no other machine out there like it. It looks for the defects in the seam and rejects .130 thousandths and accepts .128 in seam height.
All of the can line is Canco/American Can Company, Seattle. They built em STOUT. Castings 1 1/2" thick. They stopped making the cutter/fillers in 1945, the clincher is of 1920 vintage and the seamer stopped production in 1955 and is industry standard still today.
If you want to can fish, you gotta have these machines.
Cool stuff.
 
Okay, so... Got my 360 machined and squared to a deck of 5.995... .005 below deck. Got a scat forged standard weight 4" Crank with scat I beam rods. The pistons are mahle 2618 alloy with - 28cc valve reliefs. Should be at 9.8:1 with a .029 head gasket. The piston will sit about .012 in the hole and will give about a .041 Quench...is quench really all that??? I know the theory behind it but a lot of the guys at the track have widely differing opinions....
Was gonna use my 1.92/1.62 indy heads but I might just go with some IMM indys with 202's instead with a single plane rather than my airgap topped with a fitech 600 power adder I bought for the 318. The rotating assembly is being internally balanced next week and the cylinders dialed in to the new mahle beauties...a sweet piston for sure.$$$. Just gotta decide on a cam next...Thinking about a Comp 275DEH??? 219/235@.050 275/284 advertised and .462/.482 lift 110/106...opinions....
Can't wait to get it back so i can get the roller rocker on and get this baby broke in.....
 
You have plenty of quench.

You need more lift than you say you are going to use.


Do yourself a favor and don't use an off the shelf cam
 
yellow rose said:
You have plenty of quench.

You need more lift than you say you are going to use.


Do yourself a favor and don't use an off the shelf cam
Click to expand...
I filled out the online spec sheet for Bullet cams but haven't got a response yet...might have to call and talk to Tim...
 
I can't speak to tight Q scientifically nor from experience, except that have found that I can run 87E10 in a 10.9 aluminum headed 367, with 8.6Dcr@175psi, and .035Q, with full timing, and a modest rate of advance.
So I'm a believer.
And fuel mileage can be waaaay better than expected with a more modest cam.

As to your cam; the 275,in at 106 will put the ICA around 63*. And that,with 9.8Scr,your Dcr may come in at 7.95@159psi, just about right.
But you couldn't give me the cam you are looking at. There are faster lobes with higher lifts that will show Mr.Chebby the way home.
 
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