Cams for Dummies ??

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halfafish

Damn those rabbits, and their holes!
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I would like to understand how to pick a cam, and how all the other factors affect selecting the right cam. I'm not an idiot but just reading what I can find here it's like the harder I try to get it the less it all makes sense.

Is there a good book, website, or tutorial I can use to get a handle on this?

TIA!
 
Good ask, but probably the most controversial subject in hot rodding. So many variables that there is no such thing as the perfect camshaft. That said, there are reasonable guidelines that are widely used for the average engine builder and most of the info you'll find here is from many years of trial and error from some great people. Even the pro grinders will disagree on one specific combo. That's why the ''big boys'' of racing spend countless hours on the dyno with different profiles and head flows.
 
It will help greatly to know what engine and what your plans are for said engine.
 
Start with this

Detail Specs​

Transmission Type Manual Automatic
Transmission Make
Low Gear
Transmission Brake
Full or Pro Tree
Two Step RPM
RPM @ Shift Point
Expected Stall RPM
Ft Brake or Transmission
What Size and Stall?
Mid Plate Thickness
1/4 Mile or 1/8 Mile or Other
Make of Car
Weight of Car
Type of Rear Suspension
Engine Size
Bore
Stroke
Rod Length
Cylinder Heads
Compression
Intake Manifold
Carburetor CFM
Fuel
Nitrous
Supercharged/Turbocharged
Camshaft
Lift
Adv Duration
Duration @ .050
Rear End Ratio
Tire Height or Rollout
Tire Width
Average 60' Time
Avg 1/4 Mi ET & MPH
Other Instructions / Comments
Then call a quality cam company. Sometimes its best to trust the professionals. At the very least you can pick their brains for free.
 
lol.

Just get on here and ask “what’s the best cam for my build…” take the advice on cam given by whom you trust most… then be happy with your choice…

Or call a cam shop and ask what cam they advise for your build… take recommendation of cam shop… then be happy.

Or last option is you can find some engine builds on here, see posted HP numbers/track numbers with said build. If that’s the range you’re going for then copy their build.
 
The problem with calling a cam company is you risk getting someone who knows nothing about Mopar. Or knows nothing about nothing other than selling parts. Few camshaft companies know or take the time to point to camshafts that take advantage of the .903 lifter diameter. Hughes is one, but I'll die and go to hell before I call them ever again. Schneider is a good company. I understand Jones is another. Needless to say Jim at Racer Brown is a Mopar genius. I'd even call Ken Heard at Oregon before Comp. Ken is really sharp and could probably do you justice. Some of us here can help. We just need to know what you're trying to accomplish and with WHAT.
 
I would like to understand how to pick a cam, and how all the other factors affect selecting the right cam. I'm not an idiot but just reading what I can find here it's like the harder I try to get it the less it all makes sense.

Is there a good book, website, or tutorial I can use to get a handle on this?

TIA!
Generally look at many builds as possible that give engine with dyno and or track time and see how mainly cid heads and cam effect performance, as well as cr, intake and exhaust systems etc.

Keeps notes of specs and results you'll start to see trends.

Richard Holdener has lot of dyno vids





Here a link a search of his cam shootout mainly non dodge but still help you learn.

https://www.youtube.com/@richardholdener1727/search?query=Cam shootout
 
Pick the cam listed before the one you chose. lol
 
I would like to understand how to pick a cam, and how all the other factors affect selecting the right cam. I'm not an idiot but just reading what I can find here it's like the harder I try to get it the less it all makes sense.
Problem especially with street cam some of it comes down to your level of compromises and preferences. Most are gonna have different takes on best cam leaving ya confused to which one.
Best learn a bit then pick couple of cams you feel are right then ask for peoples opinions on them.

Is there a good book, website, or tutorial I can use to get a handle on this?

TIA!
 
Find David Vizard's 128 rule on the web. '128' covers parallel valve engines; it is certainly better than phoning a cam company & getting advice from the phone jockey reading from a computer screen who most likely never worked on a Mopar engine.

DVs 128 rule was developed after he tested 19,000+ cam combinations for Crane cams over many years. When I find somebody who has tested more than 19,000 cams, I will take their advice.....
 
I would like to understand how to pick a cam, and how all the other factors affect selecting the right cam. I'm not an idiot but just reading what I can find here it's like the harder I try to get it the less it all makes sense.

Is there a good book, website, or tutorial I can use to get a handle on this?

TIA!
man, talk about deep murky waters.

the one constant you'll find is that everything affects cam selection. every.single.factor.

the more you read, the more you'll find you knew a lot less than before.

it's called camshaft theory for a reason...
 
I would like to understand how to pick a cam, and how all the other factors affect selecting the right cam. I'm not an idiot but just reading what I can find here it's like the harder I try to get it the less it all makes sense.

Is there a good book, website, or tutorial I can use to get a handle on this?

TIA!
Nope, 'cause whatever You watch/read/hear, somebody will tell You why it's all wrong...
 
ahhh the days of the PAW catalog and picking cams by position in the box and RPM range...
PAW... Now that brings back some memories! My father would get those 3 inch thick catalogs often, And me being in High school would always look through them and just dream.
Now, I just browse Summit, Mancini, FABO classifieds and Ebay for car parts.
And when I do order the parts I try to "intercept" the package on the delivery day before the wife is aware.
I sure do miss those stickers too.
PAW.jpg
 
Problem is there's no rule of thumb or calculations that can guide you even DV's 128 only calculates LSA, lift is a fairly easy spec to figure out but the rest like duration you kind have to know how it gonna react to mainly Cylinder heads and Displacement.

Heads are the main NA HP component, generally a race cam and CR can get 2-2.5 hp per cfm, a street strip type cam like 230-250 with 10.5:1 cr gonna in the 1.7-1.9+ hp per cfm and engines with less cam and CR will just be lower hp per cfm. Obviously there's more to it then cam and CR to hit these numbers the rest of the combo has to match especially closer to max effort 2.5 hp per cfm.

Then you got how displacement comes into all of this plus how well you fill that displacement Volumetric efficiency (VE%). To make X hp take a certain amount of fuel and air in a fairly narrow range, so an engine to displace say 2 hp per cfm is gonna take certain amount of revolutions depending on cid and ve% and ve and other efficiency vary with rpm why torque curve ain't flat.

Eg. You want peak power with a 340 around 6000 rpm stock head vs trick flow is gonna be two different cams, the trick flow should need less cam to get there. But alternatively say you want peak power at 6000 rpm for both a 340 and 440 the cams could vary similar depending on the heads etc.. on each.
 
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As a streeter, with a 367/4-speed car, I can tell you that, each of the three cams that have been in my 367, ranging from 223* to 249*@050, were perfect for at least the first summer.
That's almost a 4-size range.
My secret, is keeping the Cylinder Pressure nearly the same between each iteration, and adjusting the starter-gear to match the ever shrinking take-off torque.
Of the three;
I can tell you exactly which one I liked the least, and why. and
I can tell you exactly which one I liked the most, and why. and
I can tell you exactly what changes were needed to the rest of the combo, and why, to get the best out of them.

I have 16 years experience with that same engine, and can tell you that, it went thru 5 transmission selections and 10 different pumpkins, 3 intakes, 5 carbs, and numerous ignition changes. Then, finally, I broke down and bought/installed an overdrive, at which time, all my troubles were over.
What did I learn?
I learned, it's all about the combo; and
if you got a bad combo, yur gonna have to back up the bus and make some changes.
Or, you can pick the combo first, and
make the engine fit it, which is most often, waaaaaaaaay cheaper.
They say there is no perfect cam,
but I do not agree. The combo will pick it's own cam. The part that is not perfect is if a person wants too much from the combo, and is not willing/able to change his expectations.
In my case, right from the get-go, I needed the car to be my DD, and the first cam I picked was way off the DD-path. By the third cam, the car was no longer a DD and that first cam woulddabin perfect.
It's all about the combo.
Once the combo has pointed out the cam, optimizing the engine for the cam, is relatively straight forward.

If I learned one thing from that experience it was this;
get an overdrive before you start, so you can optimize the Second-gear hit. Until I had second gear dialed in, I was never happy with any of the iterations.
Now, afterwards, I realized that I had waaaaay more engine than I needed. It's all about the combo. If the combo wants 4.30s, you gotta get some 4.30s. If you gotta drive a lot of hiway, you gotta get an overdrive. If the combo wants a 2800 stall, you gotta get one. if it wants a 3800, well get one. If it has to run on Premium gas, well yur stuck at every filling station, emptying your wallet. Can't afford it? Then you got the wrong combo.
And so on.
Once the combo is settled, picking a cam is the easy part. The next hurdle is optimizing the engine-build for the selected cam, which is usually a one-time deal.
If you, at a later date, want a different cam, it changes everything. Well except if you have an overdrive, that is a one-time selection and she will never outwear her welcome. Same for a 2800 stall. Even if it's off a few hundred, on the street it will not be a problem, once you have an overdrive that allows crazy rear gears.
So the overdrive puts you ahead of the curve, and more or less cements the stall and rear gear, within a two or just maybe, a three cam-size window. So you aim small, using a thick headgasket running on the upper edge of the Q-window, knowing that if you upcam, you can get some pressure back with a thinner gasket, until yur Q gets to be too small.
BTW,
almost all SBM street cams are gonna run in about a four/five cam-size window of about 210 to 238 degrees @050. Honestly, IMO; beyond this window, is too hard, or too expensive, or too low-perf, or too hi-perf, to successfully install. These 5 cam sizes represent the power curve moving about 1000 rpm from say 4500 to 5500, having shift points of between say 4800 to 6000. Not many of us are gonna dare to shift regularly over 6000 on the street and you cannot usually get to 6000 in Second gear anyway, unless you risk losing your driving privileges, cuz with street gears 6000 could be over 90 mph in second gear.
And we all want more than 5000, lol. So that cam-size range pretty much covers it.
Throwing out the high and low, yur down to a range of three sizes, with an intake Ica window of say 14*, so now you are out of range for keeping in the Q window for all three cams, if wanting to do it with headgasket thicknesses. So now you are trying other things to prevent detonation. Those are the things that I learned.
All that to say;
Get the combo nailed down, then build the engine once. This is ESPECIALLY important, if you cannot afford an overdrive.

Merry Christmas
 
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