Here's the deal
The 69/ earlier regulator was of course originally electro/ mechanical. You can easily tell by looking at the bottom. If there are two wirewound resistors on the bottom, that's what you have
The vast majority of aftermarket replacement 69/ earlier regulators are already electronic
The above series will work with ANY alternator, either grounded (early) or isolated (late 70/ later) field setup. You only need to ground either field connection on the later alternators, and hook it up
IT IS BETTER to use a 70's "square back" alternator rather than the roundback type, as the later alternator has better output at low RPM
The later, better squareback on left, early, "roundback" on right
Below is a 70 -- ? "roundback" isolated field, what you are calling a "dual field" These do not have as good low RPM characteristics as the "squareback"
On the left is a "hack rebuilder's delight." This is an older (69 / earlier) that has been hacked / converted to an isolated field, except this one has been converted BACK. In this photo the insulated brush is at the top, the original grounded brush (installed) is at left, and the "hack" brush position (vacant) is at right. The problem with these is several:
Being a roundback, inferior low RPM characteristics
Because the brush holder is not standard, you can't easily get a brush set, and the usually cheap insulators do fail. Hell, I've seen these come with the "hacked" brush already grounded!!!!
Worse, if someone "who doesn't realize" installs the original brush, AND tries to use it as an isolated field, AND gets the blue field power hooked to the grounde brush -- you have just melted your ignition harness
Any Mopar regulator that looks like this will work with any Mopar alternator, you just need one grounded brush
NAPA and Standard Motor Products sells one that looks like this, also same as 69
This is the factory 70 / later electronic regulator. For this you MUST have a 70/ later isolated field alternator