Can't get manifold off..

-
Originalowner73 340duster

Originalowner73 340duster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
514
Reaction score
52
Location
New York
Got all side bolts out..the ones in the carb housing are for plate underneath right?? I've been banging on this thing awhile and can't get it to break loose . Any help before I brake something??and the number on it is 3671918AE.. anyone know what year it's from??
 
did you try running a blade along the front and rear rails , A lot of us throw the cork rail gaskets in the garbage and use RTV or The Right Stuff to seal the ends .This needs to be cut before the manifold will even come closer to releasing from the intake gaskets .
 
I'm sure you have, but got to ask. You did remove the valve covers? As they can keep it the intake from coming up. I've had many valve covers that can refuse to come off. If you can find a corner of the intake that you can start a flat putty knife or chisel to start driving under it, it should pop up for you. Just be sure to get it under an area that won't affect the sealing ability. And like cannucky said. Get the silicone cut out.
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Got all side bolts out..the ones in the carb housing are for plate underneath right?? I've been banging on this thing awhile and can't get it to break loose . Any help before I brake something??and the number on it is 3671918AE.. anyone know what year it's from??
Click to expand...


Be sure that you removed all 12 bolts from the intake (6 per side)...

Then if you can't get it loose, take a flat screwdriver and carefully pound it in the front of the intake and use the taper to help wedge it up....
 
Got it out.. thanks guys...now should I go have it blasted and boiled..look like I could probably do it..but the boiling would get deep inside???
 
I know there are a lot of people that don't sandblast them out of worry about not getting all the sand out. I have had them blasted with zero issues. I've also just had them tanked for clean up. The downside to the hot tanking is that at least in my area no one really uses the nasty caustic stuff because of environmental protection laws. So they don't get super clean. Lately we just get some heavy duty degreaser from the local parts store, hand scrap what you can get off, degrease it, pressure wash it up. Don't tell my wife, but I've been known to throw it in the dishwasher on hot and let it go. The parts washers the guys around here use are literally just a bigger version of a dishwasher. I'm all about saving the environment, but still want clean parts. After that, a wire wheel and elbow grease are what we do.
 
Try pine sol and water 50-50. Let it soak.
I used it to clean a carb, even softened the paint.
 
K ..now I have 8 metal tabs on all 4 sides and looks like then come from head gaskets..is this normal or should I break them off..they are all in the area that's going to be rtv anyways
 
If they are what I think your describing, I would leave them and rvt over them if they aren't damaged or bent up in the way.
 
You should be good to go then. Don't go overboard on it, but use a good bead of rvt on the mounting surface and it should seal up without any issues. Just be sure of course to get both surfaces of the intake and valley very clean of residue, debri, greases, oils, antifreeze, etc. That will be what works against you if you don't. I always get a rag with lacquer thinner or acetone and wipe all the surfaces just before putting down the sealer. I also usually run some mild sandpaper over it before the lacquer. Glass smooth surfaces don't allow for bonding well, you need a little porosity to let it bite.
 
On iron intakes, I just stick a tire iron into the carb inlet and lever it off.
 
On the tabs, they are to hold cork gaskets, just bend them down and use RTV.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top