Can't get my guages to work #&#%!

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70coyoteduster

70coyoteduster

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I'm just finishing up my car and I can't get my guages to work. I've got 12 volts coming in to the constant voltage regulator but can't get a steady 5 volts coming out. All the guages check out good and I put all new sending units in. This is for a rally dash in my 1970 Duster. If anyone has experienced this problem or has an answer please help. I know Fords had this problem and they make a separate module to fix the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
You can try Mopar, I got mine from a guy who sells all kinds of mopar parts here in southern Alberta. Year One has them for $50 sumoleys and call it a instrument voltage limiter.
 
demon seed said:
Yup, done that been there. Got to replace that little bugger in the back of the instrument panel. :evil2:
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If it's a ralley dash the IVR is ingegrated into the fuel gauge. If it's bad you will have to build a solid state replacement. Simple to build from a 7805 IC available at Radio Shack.
 
dgc333 said:
If it's a ralley dash the IVR is ingegrated into the fuel gauge. If it's bad you will have to build a solid state replacement. Simple to build from a 7805 IC available at Radio Shack.
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Well I'll be go to hell dgc333. I've heard of using that Radio Shack chip for a limiter instead of the old plug in. I thought both dashes used the plug in limiter. See what I mean, 50 and still learning. I'll have a look around cause I came across a site that showed the how too's for the radio shack chip. :notworth:

Found it. www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/elec/11.html
 
Thanks guys! I'm going with the plug in first. Sounds like that's the answer I was looking for. Thanks again.
 
Hello coyote- If you indeed have the rallye dash like what`s used in the 67-69 Cudas, then there is no plug-in v/limiter as Dave said. The limiter is actually inside the fuel gauge and you`ll have to pull the fuel gauge from the cluster and either send it out for repair, or remove the limiter from the gauge, and do the solid state replacement. The parts can be had at any Radio Shack for about $5.00 and it will restore a constant 5 volts to all of your gauges and steady them. If you install the chip your gauges will likely work better than they ever did.Let us know if you need any more help.
 
Also check: Does the dash have a good ground? I had a 71 340 Demon that the guages worked intermittenly. Then the oil pressure went full. Turns out that the instrument cluster needed a ground. Hope this helps.

don
 
Longgone said:
Hello coyote- If you indeed have the rallye dash like what`s used in the 67-69 Cudas, then there is no plug-in v/limiter as Dave said. The limiter is actually inside the fuel gauge and you`ll have to pull the fuel gauge from the cluster and either send it out for repair, or remove the limiter from the gauge, and do the solid state replacement. The parts can be had at any Radio Shack for about $5.00 and it will restore a constant 5 volts to all of your gauges and steady them. If you install the chip your gauges will likely work better than they ever did.Let us know if you need any more help.
Click to expand...

Hopefully..radio shack has the complete unit. I tried to build my own from a mopar mag. Got diodes, capsitors, chip and then ended up with a smoke filled Vehicle. (and I've take'n electronic's) :sad9:
Just for the hell of it!
If it did have the voltage limiter,,,,,it's also very important to have a piece of insulation (cardboard) between the "limiter case", probe contacts and cluster itself. If not, or insulator warn out, they limiter will short across these contacts.
 
Radio Shack sells components that allow you to make one. The 7805 IC is a 5 volt regulator that takes anywhere from around 9 volts to 30 volts input and gives you a 5 volt output. The device is intended to be mounted on a circuit board so it has three pins in line, one for input, one for output and the third is ground. Most of the articles have you solder a capacitor between the input and output to filter noise put I don't think it's necessary.

When I did mine I left the IVR in the fuel gauge and soldered wires with female bullet connectors on them and just plugged it onto the screw terminals on the back of the dash. I would recomend that you get a heat sink for the regulator too, it gets quite hot.
 
I configured mine just as Dave did and it`s a breeze, so don`t be intimidated, it`s a very worthwhile repair/upgrade.
 
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