canton oil plate...still leaking

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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71 duster with a MRL build 75 408

I noticed a slight leak on the duster, and found the bottom of the oil filter was wet
everything around it is BONE dry
I asked Mike what might have caused this, and he thought the OEM oil filter plate was leaking

so I went ahead and ordered a canton filter plate

when tryin to remove the OEM plate I damaged the OEM stub beyond recognition
no big deal, ordered a new one from the dealership and installed everything

the next day, the leak was still there

so I removed the plate again, make sure the mounting surface was clean, the seal was installed and the stud was nice and tight
all good, installed it again and the next day...it still leaks


now, the ONLY thing I can think of is the stud
the reason I could not remove the stud was because the one I had on there did not have the internal drive, but only the 3/32 tall nut that was cast in
the new stud has a much taller nut cast onto it, as a matter of fact, it is tall enough to actually get a wrench on


so now I am thinking, could it be this nut is actually TO tall and the oil filter is actually bottoming out on the nut before the oil filter seal can do its job and make a good seal?


or...am I missing something else entirely?
 
Look above the filter. Probably a valve cover gasket leaking down on the filter. Not familiar with the Canton part, but the stock plate has a gasket at the outer edge, and at the fitting in the center. Do you have all the gaskets installed?
 
furyus2 said:
Look above the filter. Probably a valve cover gasket leaking down on the filter. Not familiar with the Canton part, but the stock plate has a gasket at the outer edge, and at the fitting in the center. Do you have all the gaskets installed?
Click to expand...

everything above it is dry
definitely not the valve cover

the canton plate is a aluminum part, with a groove machined in it and a rubber seal in that groove

there is no gasket on the fitting itself (I think they only use those on the 90 degree adapters?)
 
I have the same setup but yet to install, so I'd like to see what is going on or if someone has some incite. I will say I have rarely ever had an oil filter 100% seal so there is that.
 
Well Im thinking it might be the block. Take the plate off and get everythign as clean as you can, get it dry, let it sit for a day or 2 and make sure its clean and dry. Get some sealant called "The Right Stuff". put a bead on the plate(ditch the oring for now) and put it on the engine. Make sure its clean and dry and stays that way. Now put the filter stud on FINGER tight, not real tight and let it sit overnight. Next day tighten it down. This is your best bet.
 
thanks Mike
I actually did roughly that today, only I used black RTV and left the O ring on

it was when I went to install the oil filter that I considered the thicker nut
do you have any thoughts on that?


(if it is still leaking tomorrow I will do it the way you mentioned)
 
oh, and I did post a want thread for a "new" stud, one with a thinner nut, so I can eliminate the filter bottoming out theory
 
I love that sealant! The right stuff seals everything! I had a warped and stripped transmission pan. Couldn't get it to seal at all. I put The Right Stuff on it and torqued it down and let it sit for an hour just to make sure it was fully cured and bam! No more leak!! I highly recommend it!
 
diymirage said:
thanks Mike
I actually did roughly that today, only I used black RTV and left the O ring on

it was when I went to install the oil filter that I considered the thicker nut
do you have any thoughts on that?


(if it is still leaking tomorrow I will do it the way you mentioned)
Click to expand...

If the nut was to thick, you would see marks on the filter in the center where it contacted.
 
Mopar P3671602 is the one I have for the filter mount stud. It has an internal hex.
 
I talked the people at summit, they said the lead time comes from mopar performance, and they didn't think it would be very likely for them to produce one, if I just ordered one
so that would push it out pretty much indefinitely
 
when i put the filter plate to my engine i found the supplied gasket wasn´t even compressed or touched when the nut was tightened.....the filter plate was not the correct depth. I got some thick gasket paper and cut a gasket similar to the stock one (but twice as thick), everythings ok now. Not the slightest leak. Maybe the blocks have some Variations there (mine´s a 91 roller cam block).

Michael
 
this one is an aluminum piece with an O ring
it should seal much better then the old stamped metal pieces with the paper gaskets

should
 
I bet the hex on the new unit is too tall, what is the listed application for it, maybe it only works with a certain mopar filter, remove and inspect your filter for contact
 
Color the suspected interference area with a sharpie. Tighten the filter. Take the filter off. You will seethe sharpie scraped off if it's hitting.
 
seeing that picture shows a completely different filter mounting unit, probably more recessed than our old block or canton plates. easy to remove your filter and look for scratches
 
Marcohotrod said:
seeing that picture shows a completely different filter mounting unit, probably more recessed than our old block or canton plates. easy to remove your filter and look for scratches
Click to expand...

69_340_GTS said:
Color the suspected interference area with a sharpie. Tighten the filter. Take the filter off. You will seethe sharpie scraped off if it's hitting.
Click to expand...

I pulled the filter off and did not see any scratches
Then I painted it with a sharpie, installed it and removed it and no slicks ratchet in the painted area

So maybe it is not too long after all?

I'm still going to keep an eye on it
I sealed the plate today with black RTV, 8f it still leaks tomorrow I will install a different stud and report back
 
diymirage said:
71 duster with a MRL build 75 408

I noticed a slight leak on the duster, and found the bottom of the oil filter was wet
everything around it is BONE dry
I asked Mike what might have caused this, and he thought the OEM oil filter plate was leaking

so I went ahead and ordered a canton filter plate

when tryin to remove the OEM plate I damaged the OEM stub beyond recognition
no big deal, ordered a new one from the dealership and installed everything

the next day, the leak was still there

so I removed the plate again, make sure the mounting surface was clean, the seal was installed and the stud was nice and tight
all good, installed it again and the next day...it still leaks


now, the ONLY thing I can think of is the stud
the reason I could not remove the stud was because the one I had on there did not have the internal drive, but only the 3/32 tall nut that was cast in
the new stud has a much taller nut cast onto it, as a matter of fact, it is tall enough to actually get a wrench on


so now I am thinking, could it be this nut is actually TO tall and the oil filter is actually bottoming out on the nut before the oil filter seal can do its job and make a good seal?


or...am I missing something else entirely?
Click to expand...

I had the same issues with my canton adapter plate it would leak and oil would make its way down on the filter than drip onto exhaust, I did what was recommended as I thought the filter was bottoming out , checked O ring to make sure it was seated correctly all was good but still leaked ! I ended up putting a gasket behind the plate and leaving the O ring on, no more oil leak.
 
67 gt said:
I had the same issues with my canton adapter plate it would leak and oil would make its way down on the filter than drip onto exhaust, I did what was recommended as I thought the filter was bottoming out , checked O ring to make sure it was seated correctly all was good but still leaked ! I ended up putting a gasket behind the plate and leaving the O ring on, no more oil leak.
Click to expand...

Just the stock paper gasket?
 
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