car hauler decking suggestions?

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rustycowll69

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I have just torn off all the rotted wood decking from my 19.5ft long flat-deck car hauler. The deck support crossmembers are about 2ft on center. I was thinking about using some composite decking instead, but few are manufactured 1.5" thick, less in 20ft lengths that would fit my existing trailer requirements. Also, I think I'd have to add more cross members between the existing crossmembers, because composites are not as rigid as wood. Anybody have any experience here?
 
composite decking is not very strong. usually wants 16" or less on center for using as a deck. no way I would ever put a car on it.
I would use a pressure treated board. I was actually shocked at how easily the composite flexes. looks great on our deck should last a long time.
just no real rigidity to handle those kind of weight loads
 
rustycowll69 said:
I have just torn off all the rotted wood decking from my 19.5ft long flat-deck car hauler. The deck support crossmembers are about 2ft on center. I was thinking about using some composite decking instead, but few are manufactured 1.5" thick, less in 20ft lengths that would fit my existing trailer requirements. Also, I think I'd have to add more cross members between the existing crossmembers, because composites are not as rigid as wood. Anybody have any experience here?
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Might want to look into some diamond plate steel.
 
Even with diamond plate I would add cross members between the existing ones with the spacing you said you have. My deck has one foot spacing and still has some bow between.
Yote
 
A good pressure treated 2x6 deck will last a long time, even longer if you treat it periodically after. Likely the most cost effective too.

Cley
 
Yote said:
Even with diamond plate I would add cross members between the existing ones with the spacing you said you have. My deck has one foot spacing and still has some bow between.
Yote
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Agree about the extra cross members. If he wants to use the diamond plate and it is cost prohibitive he could do an open center bed and that would save a bunch of $$ on material. Just a thought.
 
A co-worker re-did his in composite decking, and said he has had no issues.
 
Here the commonly used material is white poplar. Its durable and lasts pretty well. Dont know what your composites are like, but any i have seen here arent something i would use on a trailer.
 
Just noticed you are in PNW. I used Douglas fir from Idaho in early '80s for livestock corrals. It was never treated and have only replaced a couple boards since. Without a doubt the best lumber for exposed use I have ever bought. Mine was rough cut 2X8".
Yote
 
Forgot to mention, mine is also rough cut.never did, but should have oiled it.
 
89on35s said:
A good pressure treated 2x6 board deck will last a long time, even longer if you treat it periodically after. Likely the most cost effective too.

Cley
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Agree. Easy to seal with a pump sprayer annually. It will easily last as long as the steel on the trailer.
 
mopardude318 said:
Why not use apitong?
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Because it is endangered.

Apitong wood Dipterocarpus grandiflorus is a critically endangered common medium hardwood tree in Brazil, South-East Asia and India. Its wood and timber are sold under the Keruing designation.

Common US pressure treated lumber is a preferable choice because it is a renewable resource.
 
there was no mention of that what so ever by my supplier when I bought a huge pile of it to redo my car trailer...he has a huge warehouse full of the stuff...
 
mopardude318 said:
there was no mention of that what so ever by my supplier when I bought a huge pile of it to redo my car trailer...he has a huge warehouse full of the stuff...
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I'm sure he does. It is still legal to distribute...for now.

But it is an endangered hardwood and will eventually be regulated out of supply.
 
I welded diamond plate on mine by splitting an 8 foot in 1/2 and using 1 inch angle iron between the crossmembers. The center is open that way to work under the car while it is on the trailer.
 
chryslerfat said:
I welded diamond plate on mine by splitting an 8 foot in 1/2 and using 1 inch angle iron between the crossmembers. The center is open that way to work under the car while it is on the trailer.
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This is how mine is. I've thought about closing the gap but can't decide. I've waited for now but might do it eventually.

Riddler
 
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