69 Dart, 360 fuel injected, auto. Hey guys, loosing it here, cannot figure this out. Late last fall, Car started and went for a ride. Got about 2 miles and it died as I was coming to a complete stop. Turns over but would not start. Fuel pressure was fine and checked coil power ....no power to coil. Ran a jumper wire from coil to starter solenoid ...ran like a charm and brought it home. Got busy till following weekend, took battery out and gave it a full charge. Car started ran for 5 min. and died, could not start again ...turned over fine and fuel pressure was good. Again, ran a jumper wire and she started right up, snow was coming so I drove it with the jumper wire left on and it ran great ...took it to storage and took jumper wire off. Last week, went to get it, charged battery to make sure it was good, hooked up the battery and got in = did not hook up jumper wire = she started right up. Got about 3 miles down highway and was almost at complete stop at lights and she died again. Hooked up jumper wire to coil and power and she started right away ...drove it home ...check battery, shows 12.3 and 100 per cent charged. Were would be the best place to look, battery is good, posts are cleaned, checked for breaks in wiring ...none that is visible and wiring is brand new. Previous year put on 400 miles and no problems. Cannot trace wire from coil to ignition as it is all wrapped in vinyl tape. Any thoughts guys
Car turns over and will not start
- Thread starter SB69GTS
- Start date
-
blown71duster
Well-Known Member
You would have to check it out the coil feed circuit when its hot and breaking down.
I use a tool designed for open circuits and it works great as it can detect an open without tearing the harness apart:
I use a tool designed for open circuits and it works great as it can detect an open without tearing the harness apart:
cletus
Cooter's Apprentice
First thing that comes to mind is a ballast resistor.
Won't be the ballast resister as there is none. The wiring looks like painless. It has the fuse box inside and no bulkhead connector s its just one big roll of taped wiring going into car through a grommet. As far as what I'm running..... its a Mallory distributor, Mallory coil, massflo fuel injection with aeromotive access. I bought this car a few years back from one of our members to use while I was building mine. It ran fine until last year when it started to die after 3 or more miles of cruising. Checked battery today on the bench ...it was 100 % when taken out on Tuesday. Now sitting on bench shows 75. Can it possibly be a bad battery
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If it cranks good I don't see it being the battery.
Have you checked for basic spark? That is, isolate it to ignition or EFI. The EFI probably won't trigger fuel without spark so you need to check spark first.
I would "de wire" the Mallory and get right down to the bare basics.......Hook the Mallory direct to battery so all you have is the dist and the coil, etc.
I would disconnect anything to the coil except needed for ignition. There has been cases of a bad tach "killing" spark. In fact, depending on where the EFI trigger is hooked, I would disconnect that as well, UNTIL you have spark.
Have you checked for basic spark? That is, isolate it to ignition or EFI. The EFI probably won't trigger fuel without spark so you need to check spark first.
I would "de wire" the Mallory and get right down to the bare basics.......Hook the Mallory direct to battery so all you have is the dist and the coil, etc.
I would disconnect anything to the coil except needed for ignition. There has been cases of a bad tach "killing" spark. In fact, depending on where the EFI trigger is hooked, I would disconnect that as well, UNTIL you have spark.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Mallory distributor is not very descriptive. The Uni-Lite requires a ballast. Without the ballast it could overheat after a few minutes. Just guessing due to lack of information.
A voltage measurement at coil + while cranking when not starting could help us. If that is near battery voltage, good, then what is voltage doing at - coil terminal? It should be bouncing.
******
Reading post #10 below, if it that system, then the system could be COP, with electronic advance, and distributor providing both timing reference and cam sync. So testing at coil, suggested above would not be possible.
A voltage measurement at coil + while cranking when not starting could help us. If that is near battery voltage, good, then what is voltage doing at - coil terminal? It should be bouncing.
******
Reading post #10 below, if it that system, then the system could be COP, with electronic advance, and distributor providing both timing reference and cam sync. So testing at coil, suggested above would not be possible.
Last edited:
What? How dare you. You're supposed to know all that. And here it is severalposts later and all we have is "mallory distributor". Didn't you pay the service on your crystal ball last month?
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I never cease to be amazed at the number of "Help" requests there are with little or no necessary information.
blown71duster
Well-Known Member
There is a system called Mass-Flow fuel injection. They have a website.
Maybe you could call and get help on troubleshooting it and possibly a wiring diagram on how this system is wired:
Mass-Flo EFI Customers
Maybe you could call and get help on troubleshooting it and possibly a wiring diagram on how this system is wired:
Mass-Flo EFI Customers
blown71duster
Well-Known Member
Here is an article on the Mass-flow system on a mopar. Sounds like it gets wired into the old ballast resistor wires , run and start of the ignition switch .
That gives you a place to start checking when the system goes down.
Mopar Mass-Flo Fuel Injection System - Mopar Muscle Magazine
That gives you a place to start checking when the system goes down.
Mopar Mass-Flo Fuel Injection System - Mopar Muscle Magazine
-
