Carb linkage and adjustment questions

[scott_s]

1965 Valiant, 225/6.
The car came with the wrong carb and the throttle linkage is a bit rigged together. I've acquired the correct carb (Carter BBS) and am about to tackle the swap. Today, I noticed that the linkage arm seems to be at a different angle than the linkage on the new carb. The pedal/throttle rod is more horizontal, and the linkage on the carb is at an angle.

 

[scott_s]

When I put the throttle plate adjustment screws for the carb on the stop, the plate is just barely open and you can see that the attachment point for the rod is at an angle.

 

[scott_s]

I do see what looks like an adjustment on the pedal/throttle linkage.

 

[scott_s]

Sooooo....help me understand this. How far open should the butterfly on the carb be? If I were to just attach it with the linkage at the existing angle, it would be at least 1/4 of the way open.
Has the linkage been altered or adjusted to fit the bastard carb that is on there now? What do I need to do to install the Carter BBS and set the linkage and throttle properly?

 

[67Dart273]

I'm not familiar with any of the earlier linkage, but the linkage should not open the carb at all. You should be able to back the idle screw clear "off" and the throttle butterfly completely closed.

 

[scott_s]

I do see what looks like an adjustment on the pedal/throttle linkage.
View attachment 1715920302

I now know that this is the transmission kick down linkage.

 

[scott_s]

I'm not familiar with any of the earlier linkage, but the linkage should not open the carb at all. You should be able to back the idle screw clear "off" and the throttle butterfly completely closed.

Maybe it will be different when it's actually attached, but it looks like the butterfly will be open if I attach it at it's current angle.

 

[scott_s]

OK....so it was explained to me like this: "Both move independently of each other and until they are attached together they will naturally stay opposing. The carburetor likes to flop open and the throttle rod has a spring making it go to the closed carburetor position."
Makes sense. Maybe I was overthinking it, having never done this before.

 

[scott_s]

BUMP.....

Got the Carter BBS installed today and the linkage definitely does NOT line up. When I attach it, it holds the throttle plate in the carb open and the idle screw isn't on the stop.
When I disconnect the linkage and operate the throttle by hand, it idles well and is very responsive.

Is it possible that someone modified the linkage to work with the '82 carb?
Is there an adjustment on the linkage that I can do to change the orientation of the "hook" on the end?
If I adjust the linkage, will that change the transmission kickdown linkage (something I REALLY don't know anything about)?

HELP! Please!

 

[scott_s]

I may have figured it out. The carb I received is not what was pictured. The arm where the idle screw/throttle plate/stop attaches is different in the ad from what I received.
There are some #'s on the carb they sent, will that tell you anything?
The carb I though I was getting is marked 6-1697. The carb I received is 6-1695.
There are obvious differences in where the throttle arm and idle stop screw attaches. I sent the seller a message....we'll see what happens.

 

[scott_s]

OK...so a few things were pointed out to me:

It was mentioned that the throttle return spring should be attached at the starter and not the bell housing. Changed that....no go.
It was mentioned that the kickdown linkage didn't look right. Got some measurements and even saw the old witness marks on the rod. Changed that....no go.

Then, a guy from Australia mentioned the pedal rod. I disconnected the pedal rod and got everything in the engine bay right! But the pedal rod was too short. Someone had it screwed nearly all the way in.

Lengthened the pedal rod and now it almost works. The return springs are too loose to return it to idle. As soon as the exhaust manifold cools down, I will reattach the springs at the bell housing.
IF I can get full throttle with the lengthened kickdown rod, and IF the springs close the throttle at idle, I may have figured this out.
My next concern is what, if anything, have I done to the shifting/transmission by adjusting the kickdown rod?

 

[scott_s]

New kickdown rod length. I believe this is where is was before it was adjusted for the 1982 carb. If I screw it out any further, the threads aren't "rusty", but turn shiny. I think this is a witness mark of the stock setting.
The return springs may have been stretched by being pulled to the bell housing and aren't strong enough here to return the throttle to idle. I'll put them back on the bell housing and see what happens.