Two of them were posted in this thread already. Here's a quick synopsis.
Here are a few ways of setting initial depending on what tools you have available. It's about making the engine efficient at idle. Efficiency = RPM in this case
1) Set at the point short of where the starter kickbacks when at operating temp. If it starts here and doesn't exceed your total number, run it. Tailor mechanical for the rest.
2) Using a vacuum gauge, note reading, advance timing, reset idle rpm. Is the reading higher, lower or same? Higher, do it again until you reach a point where vacuum will not rise. Once you get there, back off timing so the reading drops ~1", reset idle speed/mix screws and lock down distributor and get you initial timing reading using timing light.
3) At idle, feed timing into engine. If RPM increases, reset idle speed and do it again. Continue until rpm stops increasing. See where timing falls. DO NOT just turn the distributor and keep feeding it timing without resetting your base idle speed.
This is the same thing that always seems to come up about how terrible a carb runs. Burning eyes, smells like raw fuel behind car and IT'S NOT the carb causing the issue most of the time.
With automatic cars, large RPM drops from p/n to in gear, is another hint that something is wrong with your base timing settings.
I've said this a bunch of times, getting the correct timing profile (initial, mechanical, curve) on a car takes some work. There's a right way and a lazy way (total method). Sometimes with the total method you hit the lottery, most of the time, like most that play the lottery, you don't!
And Mad Dart... what's with the hate? My sensitive self esteem took a huge hit, now it's off to the prozac bottle so I can feel better about myself cause there are too many meanies in the world! LMAO
Two of them were posted in this thread already. Here's a quick synopsis.
Here are a few ways of setting initial depending on what tools you have available. It's about making the engine efficient at idle. Efficiency = RPM in this case
1) Set at the point short of where the starter kickbacks when at operating temp. If it starts here and doesn't exceed your total number, run it. Tailor mechanical for the rest.
2) Using a vacuum gauge, note reading, advance timing, reset idle rpm. Is the reading higher, lower or same? Higher, do it again until you reach a point where vacuum will not rise. Once you get there, back off timing so the reading drops ~1", reset idle speed/mix screws and lock down distributor and get you initial timing reading using timing light.
3) At idle, feed timing into engine. If RPM increases, reset idle speed and do it again. Continue until rpm stops increasing. See where timing falls. DO NOT just turn the distributor and keep feeding it timing without resetting your base idle speed.
This is the same thing that always seems to come up about how terrible a carb runs. Burning eyes, smells like raw fuel behind car and IT'S NOT the carb causing the issue most of the time.
With automatic cars, large RPM drops from p/n to in gear, is another hint that something is wrong with your base timing settings.
I've said this a bunch of times, getting the correct timing profile (initial, mechanical, curve) on a car takes some work. There's a right way and a lazy way (total method). Sometimes with the total method you hit the lottery, most of the time, like most that play the lottery, you don't!
And Mad Dart... what's with the hate? My sensitive self esteem took a huge hit, now it's off to the prozac bottle so I can feel better about myself cause there are too many meanies in the world! LMAO
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