Care to speculate my 340?

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AlV said:
Lol modify them off! That line brought a smile. In Your opinion is there value in modifying the X Heads? Or is that the performance increase not justify the cost of working them?
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You can modify them if want and can have the flow pretty well but you'll get more out of a set of aftermarket heads.
On my 340 I had my x heads fully rebuilt ready to go but I switched to a roller cam through the build so I swapped to a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads. This raised my compression a bit and had a true 63 cc chamber where has my x heads (one was a 73 the other a 76) which were suppose to be 72cc. Mine came of a barracuda that got t boned with ~22000 in 1970 the motor sat untouched till the guy I got the heads from rebuilt that 340 with w2. What I'm getting at is that you'll get more outta that aftermarket heads vs factory.
Personally it's not worth the money to fully rebuild a factory head than port when an aftermarket heads will get me more bang for the bucks.
That said the only time I can see using factory heads is for a resto and even than its roller cam/lifters/rockers and getting them to flow.
 
OldmanRick said:
I love talking about milder builds like this, but aren't you going to drop it in, as is, from the test stand instead of more mods?
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Hey Rick, yes it's going right into the car as is, I'm not going to do any additional mods at this time. I was hoping to hear thoughts on how others would approach improve on what is a fun mild street build.

I don't see you as a bad guy, more like a voice of reason. Your instincts and experience are probably correct. Your build from ALL those years Go :) sounds similar.


OldmanRick said:
I seriously hope the best for you. If that baby runs 12's @ 106/107, that would prove to me that it made 330+ hp. Regardless of the exact numbers outcome, that will be a really fun ride on the street. :thumleft:
Click to expand...

Although I had a target number in mind It wasn't something that I had to hit, it really was just a gauge. The primary goal was to build a real nice and FUN engine that would be better than stock and leave room for some mods down the road.

This motor will be backed by a rebuilt 727 modified w/ 3.8 lever, billet L/R servo, bolt in sprag, TF2 shift kit and a B&M Holeshot 2400 stall. Running through 3:91 sure grip.

I can't wait to drive her:)
 
AlV said:
Hey Rick, yes it's going right into the car as is, I'm not going to do any additional mods at this time. I was hoping to hear thoughts on how others would approach improve on the what is a fun mild street build.

I don't see you as a bad guy, more like a voice of reason. Your instincts and experience are probably correct. Your build from ALL those years Go :) sounds similar.




Although I had a target number in mind I wasn't something that I had to hit, it really was just a gauge. The primary goal was to build a real nice and FUN engine that would be better than stock and leave room for some mods down the road.

This motor will be backed by a rebuilt 727 modified w/ 3.8 lever, billet L/R servo, bolt in sprag, TF2 shift kit and a B&M Holeshot 2400 stall. Running through 3:91 sure grip.

I can't wait to drive her:)
Click to expand...

You might wanna consider an overdrive tranny (or gear vendors) that thing will be screaming at freeway speeds.
 
1970Duster said:
You might wanna consider an overdrive tranny (or gear vendors) that thing will be screaming at freeway speeds.
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Duster you're reading my mind... I've been thinking about how to handle the highway for a while.

I just rebuilt my numbers matching trans and I don't want to change it. I do like the Gearvendors over drive solution, but not ready to go that route at this time.

I think the best solution for me is to buy a 3.23 center section and do swaps.

Initially I'll stay close to home.
I'm about 25 minutes from Englishtown Raceway Park So it won't be horrible with the 3.91s. :)

That said I will have to address this with a mor permanent solution down the line.
 
Your fresh engine is gonna love those 3.91's. :D

Gearing up was the next move for the car I spoke of earlier. Unfortunately it never happened as the owner sold the car.......to buy a (Cough,Cough) Corvette. :banghead:
 
OldmanRick said:
Honestly, the guesses in the 330/350 range are crazy in my opinion.
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AlV, I want to apologize to you and the other posters for the above comment. I just got caught up in the numbers and should never have discounted yours or others opinions.....I'm truly sorry for that!

The important thing is that you've got a solid great running engine to drop in, and the fun factor really trumps any numbers that come from it.

Years back, I put together lots of street type combo's for people of many different brands. I always focused on mid/upper mid range power. I think your engine will provide similar results to some of those engines.

While they didn't set the world on fire with big numbers on the track, with a fairly low gear, 3.90/4.10ish, and a fairly snug converter, they were beasts on the street.......especially from a 15/20mph roll to about 90mph, which was where most street clashes happened back in the 70's.

Again, Sorry if I rubbed anyone the wrong way, and i think you're going to be very happy with this one when she's up and running. :thumleft:
 
OldmanRick said:
AlV, I want to apologize to you and the other posters for the above comment. I just got caught up in the numbers and should never have discounted yours or others opinions.....I'm truly sorry for that!

The important thing is that you've got a solid great running engine to drop in, and the fun factor really trumps any numbers that come from it.

Years back, I put together lots of street type combo's for people of many different brands. I always focused on mid/upper mid range power. I think your engine will provide similar results to some of those engines.

While they didn't set the world on fire with big numbers on the track, with a fairly low gear, 3.90/4.10ish, and a fairly snug converter, they were beasts on the street.......especially from a 15/20mph roll to about 90mph, which was where most street clashes happened back in the 70's.

Again, Sorry if I rubbed anyone the wrong way, and i think you're going to be very happy with this one when she's up and running. :thumleft:
Click to expand...
Rick, thanks, But there is no need to apologize to me. I was not offended in the least. You've got years of experience and are always welcome to speak your mind in fact I would be insulted if you didn't :) I come to FABO because of folks like you.

Everyone has their experiences and if we don't share them what's the point of having them. And if they were all the same that would be quite boring!! :D

Thanks for your insight.
And feel free to speak your mind on any of my posts.
AlV
 
OldmanRick said:
AlV, I want to apologize to you and the other posters for the above comment. I just got caught up in the numbers and should never have discounted yours or others opinions.....I'm truly sorry for that!

The important thing is that you've got a solid great running engine to drop in, and the fun factor really trumps any numbers that come from it.

Years back, I put together lots of street type combo's for people of many different brands. I always focused on mid/upper mid range power. I think your engine will provide similar results to some of those engines.

While they didn't set the world on fire with big numbers on the track, with a fairly low gear, 3.90/4.10ish, and a fairly snug converter, they were beasts on the street.......especially from a 15/20mph roll to about 90mph, which was where most street clashes happened back in the 70's.

Again, Sorry if I rubbed anyone the wrong way, and i think you're going to be very happy with this one when she's up and running. :thumleft:
Click to expand...
Very cool Rick, you are a gentleman. I agree with your assesment & estimates. I don't think you put it in an offensive way at all.
To AIV:Sounds like you're pretty realistic in your approach. The motor sounds good! Nice & responsive! Just do yourself a favor & put a PCV valve in one of the valve covers & a breather in the other otherwise you'll develope oil leaks. You will definitely have something fun to drive when it's together. Give us an update!
 
Lonewolf3165 said:
Very cool Rick, you are a gentleman. I agree with your assesment & estimates. I don't think you put it in an offensive way at all.
To AIV:Sounds like you're pretty realistic in your approach. The motor sounds good! Nice & responsive! Just do yourself a favor & put a PCV valve in one of the valve covers & a breather in the other otherwise you'll develope oil leaks. You will definitely have something fun to drive when it's together. Give us an update!
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Thanks Lonewolf! I sure will give an update, maybe even post a ride along video:) Good pick up on the missing stuff thanks for pointing that out. I need to pull the covers off and install the breather and PCV grommets.

I've got headers on my mind now. :D

lol
 
Put your numbers in desktop dyno. I find it's accurate within 5-10% so not terribly accurate but still gives you an idea.
 

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1970Duster said:
Doug's headers (d453) or TTi is the way to go.
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Duster, I'm finding it hard to resist buying a set of headers because I know they will have a big impact on the overall characteristics of the build. lol

Thanks for the recommendations,the fact is I need to buy an exhaust system anyway and was going to pair it with the Hp manifolds for that stock look under the hood. Now I think I'm at a tipping point.
Maybe I'll just go headers.
 
dartfever said:
Put your numbers in desktop dyno. I find it's accurate within 5-10% so not terribly accurate but still gives you an idea.
Click to expand...

Dartfever, Thank you for posting the Dyno analysis! Much appreciated.
Interesting characteristics 314/367 max. 314/329 @ 5000.

Headers! LoL

AlV
 
Dart Fever...try the same build with a smaller cam...say XE 268 or even stock 340
i have seen stock heads tested with very little flow increase above .480,so maybe the XE268 at .477 and .480 would indicate this.
..and it would be interesting to see how much higher the torque would be with a short duration cam (stock)at lower rpm...interesting for all i'm sure
 
I have a 340 with the same comp cam indy rhsx2.02 heads 10-1 cr air gap intake 770 cfm holly and dougs headers.car is 69 barracuda 391 4spd hasn't hit the road yet. i am hopeing 400 hp. I know its going to be fun to drive
 
I'm with Rick to a degree. I do think the desk top dyno is really in the ball park.
While reading the thread, I was going to guess 320HP at her best running. A Header would be a real plus. The choice of TTI's would be for me though the headers by Doug would be fine.
Someone said an extra 30HP with headers. I think a little more myself since you get 30HP from a stock engine. Same with the ported heads. Speaking of which....

IMO, is leave the X heads alone and move to an after market head. Between the all the heads out there, it's really up to you on how much of a ceiling you want to have. Focus on the area of curve on the air flow.

Your going to have a nice strong street runner when your done.
 
cudaman51 said:
I have a 340 with the same comp cam indy rhsx2.02 heads 10-1 cr air gap intake 770 cfm holly and dougs headers.car is 69 barracuda 391 4spd hasn't hit the road yet. i am hopeing 400 hp. I know its going to be fun to drive
Click to expand...
You should be close , I hit 398 hp 413 tq with light porting on x heads 10.5 Mahle pistons and Air gap intake .
 
jerry6 said:
You should be close , I hit 398 hp 413 tq with light porting on x heads 10.5 Mahle pistons and Air gap intake .
Click to expand...

But at what rpm?

Oh yeah isn't there a stock stroke aluminum head hyd roller 340 from MRL that made 470 hp and 400+ torque, that a member has? I can think of the member name at the moment.
 
cudaman51 said:
I have a 340 with the same comp cam indy rhsx2.02 heads 10-1 cr air gap intake 770 cfm holly and dougs headers.car is 69 barracuda 391 4spd hasn't hit the road yet. i am hopeing 400 hp. I know its going to be fun to drive
Click to expand...

Tni e build Cudaman!
Sounds like you're going to have a fun ride!
 
rumblefish360 said:
I'm with Rick to a degree. I do think the desk top dyno is really in the ball park.
While reading the thread, I was going to guess 320HP at her best running. A Header would be a real plus. The choice of TTI's would be for me though the headers by Doug would be fine.
Someone said an extra 30HP with headers. I think a little more myself since you get 30HP from a stock engine. Same with the ported heads. Speaking of which....

IMO, is leave the X heads alone and move to an after market head. Between the all the heads out there, it's really up to you on how much of a ceiling you want to have. Focus on the area of curve on the air flow.

Your going to have a nice strong street runner when your done.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rumblefish! I'm definitely going to look into porting the
heads (and possibly go aftermarket) down the line. Good to know I have a lot of potential left to tap.

I'm seriously looking at the TTI step headers with the X pipe since I need an exhausted system anyway.

AlV
 
ir3333 said:
Dart Fever...try the same build with a smaller cam...say XE 268 or even stock 340
i have seen stock heads tested with very little flow increase above .480,so maybe the XE268 at .477 and .480 would indicate this.
..and it would be interesting to see how much higher the torque would be with a short duration cam (stock)at lower rpm...interesting for all i'm sure
Click to expand...

I'm interested :)
 
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