Carpentry, lowering baseboard.

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This is a classic example of a homeowner not seeing a project through. Ooo 14" baseboards would be so cool!
If I was the owner and walked into this house and saw this abomination, I'd bite the bullet and pony up to have it fixed one way or another.
If the baseboards are correct to the restoration then move the outlets up or down. I think a plinth block may have been a more pleasant alternate.


Alan
 
I've worked on many old houses here in the north east. A lot of times the existing situation and budget dictate the path taken. Maybe it's knob and tube, blocking in the walls, budget, whatever. Yeah, I've seen base notched, blocks installed, ect. This is something different. I think the wood grain is clouding some people's judgement of the finished job. I think it will look much different once painted and viewed from a different angle.
 
Cope, how far off are your routed lines on that angle? Are you able to just trick it out and fade them together? Or did you have to mill compressed versions to match the lines?
 
I think it will look pretty cool once it’s all done...

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Thanks D!

Because it's all bisected angles the milled lines all line right back up.

It like turning a corner with crown, just on a different plane.
 
Any of you guys ever refinish hardwood floors ?
I have 1050 sq ft of Red Oak and just got a bid of 4700.00
Is this a job I can tackle on my own ?

Thats a stroker short block...lol
 
Any of you guys ever refinish hardwood floors ?
I have 1050 sq ft of Red Oak and just got a bid of 4700.00
Is this a job I can tackle on my own ?

Thats a stroker short block...lol
What exactly are you trying to do?
 
What exactly are you trying to do?

We are redoing our kitchen and want to change the floor color from the orange glow that it currently has. Besides it is time to do it anyway. We have 18 ft ceilings lots of glass so the sun takes its toll on them quickly.
 
While it takes some time it is not terrible to do. My mother in law instructed me on doing our first house. You can rent the larger sander from places like Home Depot. and you will need a small hand belt sander for the edges. Lots of dust but a shop vac running while you do it helps keep it at bay a bit. The waterborne polys they have now are not too bad fume wise
 
I have several smaller sanders so I should be good.. thx

When I told my wife about this thread she laughed.. It justifies the time I spend on FABO...lol.
She would rather I spend more time on home projects (her interest) than Mopars.
 
As long as the floor isn't too whacked out you should be ok. Cupping, gapping, ect makes it a bit more difficult. You can use a RO sander for the edging, but you're gonna need to rent some real sanders for the field. At the very least you'll need a galaxy (belt). Use that on the diagnal to strip and level the field. If you can get your hands on a trio that'll really take it to the next level. Use wood putty in all your gaps, cracks, and holes. Before you stain you have to water pop the floor. Staining work with pads in 4x4 areas. After poly you may want to buff/polish. There's tons of tricks, so don't be afraid to ask questions. It's a lot of work if you screw up.
 
Heres a pic of how I lay out the drop.

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These are not cut line, these are the actual lines. (That I want to end up on)
The base is a 2 peice base, that's why the angle lines are doubled. The lower line is the top of the first base and upper line is the top of the cap.

Here I'm pulling the tape from left to right so my long run stops at the vertical line. I know at that point I want to be dropping at 45 degrees. To make the drop I just remove 22.5 degrees off the long run. Next the drop is 2.5" at 22.5 degrees the other way. That gives me 45 degrees down.
Then I measure where the lower (top of the bottom base) horizontal line hits the low line and that the length of my ripped base.

Then repeat on the other side and easy peasy eh?

Heres a pic of the corner joint. Here you can see all the milled lines are spot on. That's why we always devide the total angle. If you dont do that it will never line up. It's just like a corner in a room but this bends down not around a corner.


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Do try this at home.

:)

Enjoy.
 
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I saw a picture of this on the web and finally got a chance to try it out. I gotta say I'm digging the end result.

View attachment 1715286539

This one bed room has 7 outlets and the base will drop under each one. Its gonna look cool.
Cope. Now I get it. You aint living until you gotta pull a broken coping saw out of your finger.
 
God I hate the coping saw,... all the corners are coped in. Its just a better joint on this wonky dry wall.

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I can knock one of these out in about 3 min. I've seen guys try and do it with a grinder and all kinds of BS, just learn how to use the dam tools already. We're not the first people to do this ****.....

:)
 
This guy does it differently but it's the same idea in the end.

And yes this is the guy I stole the idea from. He is a dam fine wood worker.



Cough, ehm.. and his joints are ****... he realy should have picked a better joint for that pic....
 
The outlets are 12 inches off the floor. The base is 14 inches high. This house was built in 1900s and God knows when the electrical boxes were installed.

I didn't hang the boxes, didn't pick the base, I'm just working with what I've got.

Ripping the base is not ideal because in the areas where there are no outlets the base would have to be short there to.

14" base cap? Good LAWD!
 
Very cool work! I "love" doing renos for the most part. Drywaller/mudding job by the shutoff is horrific. Another reason to choose a different pic.
Good stuff, thanks for posting.
This guy does it differently but it's the same idea in the end.

And yes this is the guy I stole the idea from. He is a dam fine wood worker.



Cough, ehm.. and his joints are ****... he realy should have picked a better joint for that pic....
 
I wondered what the heck you meant by "fold" with the door casing. That's cool stuff. I've only ever ripped it down on table saw if it met up with the wall. That or used different trim.
 
Check out this double drop.

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Some may say it's to busy but with all the rest of the details it will blend right in.
 
Check out this double drop.

View attachment 1715289169

Some may say it's to busy but with all the rest of the details it will blend right in.
Sure it will, and there will probably be furniture over/near it that will further distract from seeing it directly.

These things are accents...not centerpieces. Subtle accents that add to the whole feeling of the room and style.
 
Heres a perfect example of an accent that I did in the closet. This was not on the scope and I could of just slapped quarter round on the base but I chose to use 16 peices of wood and do a bad *** post wrap. It's even wrapped in the back side that almost touches the closet organizer.

The home owner was so happy with this one detail it was wild. I used 23 gauge headless pins to assemble it and she couldn't stop talking about how beautiful it was and how she sent pics of it to her sister and other folks. She couldn't understand why there's no nail holes. She kept saying it looks like one piece. (I used liquid nails to hold it to the steel post and pined all the miters.)

My buddy who is running the job and called me in for the finish at first was like, (I cant pay you to just do extra stuff and build jewelry boxes in the closet. ")

I told him just wait. Shes gonna love it and it's in her walk in. She will see it every day and tell all her friends how bad *** your company is.

Well he ate his words....

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Cuda Al nailed it - no pun intended.

The steps needed to overcome poor planning can look very out of place in a Victorian vintage home.

Electricity was added to these elegant & at times opulent homes.

From a historical perspective, many originals have the added boxes mounted horizontally within the existing base boards so they do not 'draw the eye' & look out of place.

I can appreciate the skills involved, but this look inside a true vintage Victorian home is is out place to me from a historic perspective.
 
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