caster and camber

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Thanks bro,although I got to go out Tonight wont be back untill after 11 my time.No reat for the wicked.
 
I think you want as much camber as you can get... maybe someone will chime in on about how much. You'll more than likely want to know this before you take to a alignment shop because they will just set it a stock. I'm curious myself because next year I will rebuild mine. I've been watching you along the way and your threads. You've done a great job.
 
Caster and camber are adjusted using the pivots where the UCA mounts to the frame. Camber is the amount that the wheel leans in and out at the top. Incorrect caster can cause wear on the inside or outside edge of the tire. Caster is the amount that the upper ball joint is either forward (negative) or rear (positive) of the lower ball joint when viewed from the side. Pos caster causes the wheels to want to return to center, but will cause hard steering in a manual steering car. Neg caster will allow for wasier turning but will give less stability at speed. Most MOPARs came from the factory wil about 1/2 to 1 degree of pos caster. This is ok but the more caster you can get the better. The adjustment cams are used to make the adjustment. Moving both cams in the same direction moves the top of the tire in or out and affects camber. Moving the cams in opposite directions moves the control arm (thus the tire) to the front or rear, affecting caster. the trick is to make the adjustments in such a way so that when you are spot on with one it doesn't change when you begin to try and bring the other into spec.
 
Thanks guys for the tips and help,its almost time to get the engine and tranny in.I know I will not make our first cruise night but if i get there in June thatssss ok.
 
dmore what is the two rods that run from lower control arm to front with bushings on the end. also to replace the bushings, do you have to drop the lower control arm to back them out enough to put the bushings on? is there an easier way. ???
 
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