Catastrophic Failure of the Camshaft Bearings

-
64 SRT8 Dart said:
Was thinking the same thing. As long as the bearing would fit afterwards. Wonder if they make a thicker OD set of cambearing for such application...I would think??
Click to expand...

You can get .020" over sized cam bearings. I know this because I accidentally ordered them and had to send them back for standard bore bearings.
 
Recorded this today:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVRfFozKYwo&feature=youtu.be"]Update on the 340 - YouTube[/ame]
 
From what I saw on "Fast & Loud", they didn't use a break-in oil with the zinc additive already mixed in as part of the formula for that particular oil. They instead used regular oil and added a zinc product, and the 302 ci in the Shelby crapped out right after they started it. They drained the oil and it was full of metal shavings. Apparently it's pretty critical on these flat tappet cam engines to use the proper oil, or you'll be pulling the engine and doing another rebuild like I just went through.
I'm no expert, just articulating what I've heard and seen recently.
 
340_dart_power said:
From what I saw on "Fast & Loud", they didn't use a break-in oil with the zinc additive already mixed in as part of the formula for that particular oil. They instead used regular oil and added a zinc product, and the 302 ci in the Shelby crapped out right after they started it. They drained the oil and it was full of metal shavings. Apparently it's pretty critical on these flat tappet cam engines to use the proper oil, or you'll be pulling the engine and doing another rebuild like I just went through.
I'm no expert, just articulating what I've heard and seen recently.
Click to expand...

I broke my cam in on my truck with Rotella T and a thing of CompCams break-in additive. If you are looking for GOOD oil for your engine for break-in and beyond, use Brad Penn Grade One and get a case from The Oil Warehouse. Still use a bottle of that additive for break-in
 
Yup I use com cam break in every oil change.What I find odd my 360 build is the only engine I have ever used break in additive ever and i had many 360 318 273 and dare i say it sbc in the past and never put any in what gives.
 
Snake said:
Yup I use com cam break in every oil change.What I find odd my 360 build is the only engine I have ever used break in additive ever and i had many 360 318 273 and dare i say it sbc in the past and never put any in what gives.
Click to expand...
Snake, in the past 10 years, they pulled all the zinc and phosphorous from the oils nowadays for the catalytic converters
 
there is hardly better feeling than a fresh engine that's working perfect I am happy you are getting some satisfaction now its time to enjoy .
 
So whats the diff from our engines needing break in additive VS say a new 2013 engine? not needing an additive? sorry to the op for jumping in.
 
My understanding is that the zinc additive provides a higher lubrication level than the oils without it, which is needed because of the flat tappet design of the older engines.
Correct?
 
340_dart_power said:
My understanding is that the zinc additive provides a higher lubrication level than the oils without it, which is needed because of the flat tappet design of the older engines.
Correct?
Click to expand...

Correct
I'm also using the Joe Gibbs HR 2 oil but with a solid flat tappet cam.
 
340_dart_power said:
My understanding is that the zinc additive provides a higher lubrication level than the oils without it, which is needed because of the flat tappet design of the older engines.
Correct?
Click to expand...

This is correct. I'm using JG XP4. After I had the motor dynoed at Top Of The Hill Performance the owner Craig Hill said to use this oil to keep the cam and tappets from wearing out. I've got about 15,000 on the rebuild with no issues.
 
Evildart said:
This is correct. I'm using JG XP4. After I had the motor dynoed at Top Of The Hill Performance the owner Craig Hill said to use this oil to keep the cam and tappets from wearing out. I've got about 15,000 on the rebuild with no issues.
Click to expand...

Yes it correct and the JG XP4 oil your using is advertised to have high zinc levels

I found this interesting info
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/guides/choosing-the-proper-oil-type/

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/
 
Sound to me like they forgot the oil galley plug behind the plug at the rear of the block. You can use a mirror to check. Its behind the last lifter hole on the passenger side of the block. With the intake off its next to the oil pump/distributor drive. Easy to look.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Sound to me like they forgot the oil galley plug behind the plug at the rear of the block. You can use a mirror to check. Its behind the last lifter hole on the passenger side of the block. With the intake off its next to the oil pump/distributor drive. Easy to look.
Click to expand...
Holy old thread revival...
 
Some/most of those 340's had crappy oil feed junctions at the mains.
Its 2 holes that intersect and the factory does not bathtub the intersection like the 360's and majority of 318's.. so the end result is a thin web of iron and the equivalent of a half moon opening against a typically misaligned oil hole in the bearings... so its capped by the bearing shell and restricted.
 
Last edited:
j par said:
Holy old thread revival...
Click to expand...
mj-grave_digger_image_update_for_website.jpg
 
j par said:
Holy old thread revival...
Click to expand...
At my age I don't look at dates or what day it is. No need to. Everyday is Saturday and Sunday is for the lord. I can remember when I hated Monday morning and couldn't wait until Friday. So who cares? I am on this site to occupy time. Why are you here?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top