cfm for 318

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Pirate duster

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ive got everything done on my 318 except carb size. i bought a 600 eddy but am having doubts about it. my 318 is bored .40, 360 heads that have had some work done, edelbrock performer rpm airgap intake, heddman headers, and dome pistons. is 600 big enough?
 
IMO you're going to want a little more than that. A 750 vacuum secondary carb would probably serve you better if you have an auto trans, mechanical secondaries if it's a manual trans.

I run an 850 Thermoquad on my stock bottom end 318.
 
I ran a 600 holley on mine worked excellent. I later built a 360 and ran it worked great on there too. Too much carb isnt always better.
 
What is the compression ratio and what size cam? Intended purpose of the vehicle is?????????

Those TQ's are super flexible and should not be in the same thought pattern as a square bore carb. Tekslk is right.
 
ive got everything done on my 318 except carb size. i bought a 600 eddy but am having doubts about it. my 318 is bored .40, 360 heads that have had some work done, edelbrock performer rpm airgap intake, heddman headers, and dome pistons. is 600 big enough?
how much cam?
 
well, for some reason i cant remember my cam size and cant find my reciept( im not a builder) but im not gonna be racing at the track or anything, im just wanting something to cruise in and have some teen moments with the wife again, it had a 600 on there before i had the heads worked on and bought a better intake. it had a sp2p on it before and it was cracked. and had stock cam. that is why i am concerned but hell, it never hurts to try. didnt want to waste time tuning it if it wouldnt work.
 
well, for some reason i cant remember my cam size and cant find my reciept( im not a builder) but im not gonna be racing at the track or anything, im just wanting something to cruise in and have some teen moments with the wife again, it had a 600 on there before i had the heads worked on and bought a better intake. it had a sp2p on it before and it was cracked. and had stock cam. that is why i am concerned but hell, it never hurts to try. didnt want to waste time tuning it if it wouldnt work.


In what you are describing here you will be good to go with what you have. My mind is always in go fast mode.
 
How To Calculate CFM:
Engine size (CID) x maximum RPM / 3456 = CFM
CFM @ 100% volumetric efficiency

(Example: 360 CID x 6000 RPM = 2,160,000 / 3456 = 609 CFM)

Approximately 609 CFM would be required for this engine. However, most Street engines are capable of achieving only about 80% VE; a modified street engine with ported heads, headers, intake and carburetor can achieve about 85% VE; a fully modified race engine can achieve 95% or greater VE. The CFM number arrived at with this formula must be factored by this percentage.

Next, you need to decide whether a vacuum secondary or a mechanical secondary carburetor will work best for you.

As a rule of thumb, vacuum secondary carburetors work best on:
Relatively heavy vehicles
Street gearing
Automatic transmission
Engines built more for low-end torque

Conversely, mechanical secondary carburetors seem to work best on:
Relatively light vehicles
Strip gearing (4.11 or numerically higher)
Manual transmission
Engines built more for top-end horsepower
 
Pop it on there and watch the CD that came with it. Tune it up and drive. Let us know how it works.
 
Ahh my favorite formula...

That formula is great for finding a minimum sized carb to run on an engine IMO. VE's have gone WAY up from the time that was published.

If you want to know why that is not a good way to size a carb for performance, why is it that every time I put a larger carb on an engine, it picked up ET and MPH from a 750dp to a 1050 dominator... HMMMMM! According to the formula, it shouldn't have needed anything bigger than a 650ish.
 
since you already have the 600 eddy put it on there and run it.it should be ok for what you are doing.if you decide you need more carb you can always upgrade later.
 
Ahh my favorite formula...

That formula is great for finding a minimum sized carb to run on an engine IMO. VE's have gone WAY up from the time that was published.

If you want to know why that is not a good way to size a carb for performance, why is it that every time I put a larger carb on an engine, it picked up ET and MPH from a 750dp to a 1050 dominator... HMMMMM! According to the formula, it shouldn't have needed anything bigger than a 650ish.

excatly... lots of slant guys run 600 on a 237ci motor lol...
 
I had a Holley 650cfm spreadbore double pumper on my stock bore 318 w/performer intake,1" phenolic 4hole spacer, crane cam .454 .454 [email protected]" and around 8:1 comp. Headers. Timing at 36 total. Ran excellent. Had 3:55 posi w/26" tall tire. 13.90's in my 2900# 71 Swinger.
I believe the jetting was 67's front and 87's back...or close to that...been 12 years, lol.
 
I ran a Holley 670 Street Avenger and LD4B on my otherwise stock 318 before I put the 360 in. I have no idea if it was ideal or anything, but the 4bbl woke it up so much I didn't care.

My 5.9 later ran 11.90s with the same carb (after upping the jets a couple sizes). I've been pretty impressed with that carb, and the lack of trouble I've had with it.
 
A 600 should be fine for a mild/moderate 318, especially on the street. Now, if you're racing it could be a different story, you'll want every last bit of that top end horsepower. On a built 318, a 650, or even a 750, could still improve the top end numbers. Using the above equation, a 340 doesn't need much more than a 600cfm carb. And yet, Mopar Muscle did an article where they gained 35 hp by bolting an 800cfm carb to a stock 340.

But keep in mind that horsepower isn't at the bottom of the curve, its at the top. You won't see it until higher in the RPM range (in the case of the article, things really took off after about 4,600 rpm). At 3k, the bigger carb gained 10 hp. At 5600, it gained 35 hp. But, with a street car, where are you spending your time? Most of the time, you'll probably be below 4,500 rpm, which means you won't see the majority of that increase in everyday driving.

And, if its mostly a street driver, you'll appreciate having a 600 instead of a 750 when it comes time to fill up the tank.
 
A mate of mine ran a 930 cfm Holley on a 308 cube V8....it ran 11.2 @ 125 mph in a Holden LH Torana sedan....had a 4,500 stallie, Trimatic auto, and 4.11 gears in a 9"......all I know is the cam was pretty big.
 
A 600 cfm ran great on my 318, buy a good book that explains how to properly tune your carb and you will be a pro!
 
A 600 cfm ran great on my 318, buy a good book that explains how to properly tune your carb and you will be a pro!


And it will, but if you read the OP it eludes to the fact that there might be some performance wanted.

With that said, a bigger carb would be in order in my opinion.

He later states it's just for cruising so a 600 will "fit the bill".
 
Ahh my favorite formula...

That formula is great for finding a minimum sized carb to run on an engine IMO. VE's have gone WAY up from the time that was published.

If you want to know why that is not a good way to size a carb for performance, why is it that every time I put a larger carb on an engine, it picked up ET and MPH from a 750dp to a 1050 dominator... HMMMMM! According to the formula, it shouldn't have needed anything bigger than a 650ish.

I use this formula for a rough idea of what the engine needs for the bare minimum to run, every engine is different and what an engine wants for a carburator maybe completely different from what it needs to run.

A 600 CFM may work great on a daily 318, but a 650 or bigger may be better for a weekend cruiser where milage is not a concern
 
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