Changed to LED now Both blinkers Flash.....

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Deemo

Deemo

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put a barracuda grille on my 65 Valiant. Now when I hit the blinker both front lights flash. The tail lights are fine. They work correctly. But left and right blink no matter which way I put the lever. Ground issue maybe? Or is there a cure?

And also, when I turn my headlights on.... the parking lights go off. Is this normal? If yes how can I make them stay on as I am getting halos for the new grille.

F2C19D03-C86B-43D4-B8A4-C01F561B7689.jpeg
 
Deemo said:
See pics

View attachment 1715178060

View attachment 1715178071
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I remember a post on here with the fix,but could not find it .. here is what I remember about it.. and a post by
Chris North wrote: Until 1968, the parking lights on US cars normally went off when the headlights were turned on. The early Plymouth Barracuda put a jumper between the tail light terminal and the parking light terminal on the plug that attaches to the headlight switch, to make the parking lights stay on when the headlights were turned on. For your Valiant, you can remove the headlight switch and solder a jumper wire between the "P" and "R" terminals on your headlight switch to keep the parking lights on with the headlights.
 
Thanks 66DVert!! I got a switch handy now and will do that tonight. Annoying having those off.


72bluNblu said:
Are you using an electronic flasher unit? LED's have a much lower draw, and it messes with the old standard flasher units.

Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIU9M0Y/?tag=joeychgo-20
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No I’m not. Figured since I have rewired the whole car it wouldn’t matter. Plus and old school car figured it wouldn’t need one considering no computer to check for resistance. My caliber r/t I had I put a set of HID s in. The canbus computer system they run was stupid hard to trick. The headlights would go off and back on when the computer didn’t get the proper ohm load. Then. Fix that and the car would try and start itself to solve the issue from the fix I put on. Gave up on them. Oh well. I’ll pick one up tomorrow. Thanks!
 
Got the flasher in and it still flashing both front turn signals. Any other ideas? I’ve even taken the steering wheel off and checked the connections there
 
What happens if you turn the park lights on and retest? I'm thinking socket grounding or even bad LED bulb. Also examine the socket pigtails/ insulators/ springs CARE FULLY. If the indexing is sloppy, they might not be properly hitting the bulb contacts
 
I have checked everything. Put the old bulbs back in and they work correctly. Gonna try one last thing which is the inline adapter which I didn’t use because again... old car. New wiring.... shouldn’t matter what bulbs are in but for what ever reason they are causing something to go wrong. The inline resistors look like this below. Last effort in making these work lol

image.jpg
 
I’ve checked everything. I still have the lower lights on the car so my thinking is just use the cuda’ lights as running lights and lowers as turn signals. I double checked the sockets, even swapped out the bulbs at the parts store and made sure they were the correct ones.

image.jpg
 
I bet you have a bad LED bulb. Take and hook them up one at a time with test leads. Ground the shell on your battery and touch one base contact at a time. You should be able to distinctly tell the brighter / dimmer one for turn and for park.

If "let's say" there is a crossover in the LED base, it could be feeding turn signal power over into the park circuit.
 
67Dart273 said:
I bet you have a bad LED bulb. Take and hook them up one at a time with test leads. Ground the shell on your battery and touch one base contact at a time. You should be able to distinctly tell the brighter / dimmer one for turn and for park.

If "let's say" there is a crossover in the LED base, it could be feeding turn signal power over into the park circuit.
Click to expand...



I’ll keep at it because I really want to loose the lower lights. I have Halo Rings as well I’m going to install on the cuda’ lights but want to make sure everything is working correctly before I do those. It’s gotta be something simple. But I’ll recheck the cross reference on these LEDs and make sure they are the correct pair
 
Remember, (I think you say) the old lights work OK.

The wiring from the TS switch to the front lamps is completely separated. The only connection between the two is the lamps/ parking lights and ground

Do both cluster indicators light up when both front lamps light up?
 
No. I only have one dash light that does both circuits. I don’t have a left and right indicator light on the cluster, just the one in the center.

And yes. Old bulbs work perfectly. Dash lights blinks correctly. Leds on the other hand I get no indicator light on the guage cluster and both sides blink. For now I just cut the wire for the turn signals to the Leds and ran it to the lower factory lights. I get turn signals that work properly and the dash light that works as well by skipping the leds as turn signals.
I am going to go back to the parts store and see about these bulbs. Just trying to update the lighting on the car and can’t believe it’s giving me a fit. Going to triple check that I have the correct LEDs for the sockets. I have the old bulbs to cross reference with.

I checked the polarity and everything and they work correct out of the socket. The lights are grounded through the grille. The power is isolated. Just odd as I’ve done tons of lighting changes to old cars and motorcycles and not one has ever done this.
 
The current LED bulbs might not be compatible with a park/blink function. The standard lights are a dual filament bulb, if the LED is set up with two circuits it may not work as intended.
 
A bad flasher will not cause this sort of problem. They will either flash, not flash and stay off, or stay on.
 
Those in line resistors can get hot, short circuit and burn your wiring out.

Replacement wiring harnesses are usually designed to work with bi-metal flashers. Funny thing is, those work no matter which side of the bi-metal flasher is supplied 12V to "in" and load "out". So sometimes those are marked wrong on new wiring harnesses. Use your test light when you turn on the ignition and test which side of the socket is hot. It may not be the way an aftermarket harness is designed and have the wrong side getting 12V's "in". Just reverse the wires in the socket.

When you run LED's (or the Diode style replacement bulbs that use semiconductor material) you should really use a "solid state" PG-3 Flasher (or the one someone tagged), they need to correctly have the 12V's and the other prong for load applied. If not, they don't work right.
 
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Still can’t figure it out but I did do the parking light mod so now the front lamps stay on. And also added a fresh look to the front of the car with the 4 in halos.

2CFFBEDE-CDB1-477A-91CB-836077E40D8A.jpeg
 
What have you "done"? One thing I would try is swap bulbs front to rear and see if things change, they try Leds in one end, bulbs in the other, etc, and swap them around.

Are you SURE this is not a ground? With the lamps activated......on, blinking, whatever, clip one of your multimeter leads (or test lamp) to a good ground, then stab the other probe right into the side of one of the turn/ park socket shells. If you get any voltage, it is not grounded
 
Could be rear ground bad,backfeeding into park lamp circuits.
Bet you are shooting at the wrong duck...
 
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