Changing 8.75 axle HELP

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HemiTM

HemiTM

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I am about to attemp to change the rear axle on my 8.75. This is one I have not done before. What is the proper sequence for doing this? I have looked through all the forums and cannot find anything. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
You're gonna have to supply a little more information for a correct sequence. Are you changing the "axle or axles" in an existing 8 3/4" rear end?? If so, is it the OE style tapered bearings or the new style Green bearings??

Are you changing the entire housing out for another?? Help us out with some more info please!! geof
 
I have a 8.75 with a 741 case, stock axles and OE style tapered bearings. I have a bent flange on the pass. side axle. I have decided to change both axles. Planning on ordering ebay item#170780833828.
 
OK, here we go!! Taking out axles with the tapered bearings is a snap. The adjuster is on the passenger side and is a threaded collar that puts preload on both bearings by use of a "thrust button", located in the center of the center section where the axle ends feed into. There should be about .010" endplay on your axles so you should be able to just take all the bolts off each axle and slide them out without disassembling any of the brake components or anything. The new axles need to be of the same design whereas they use the OE style tapered bearings to put the required preload back on the axles. If they are the same they can just be slid back into place, again with no problems or interference. The endplay on the bearings should be .010" I believe, and to get this you tighten the collar on the adjuster until there is no in and out movement at all, not even a little click. .010" ain't much, so after there is no endplay at all, back off the adjuster about 4 tab holes and check for endplay. If you like, and have one, a dial indicator would get this exact, but I believe no more than 1/2 a turn is about right. That should do it, unless there are other areas you'd like to question. This entire procedure should take about 1/2 hour, it's not very hard to do!!

Good luck with your project, Geof
 
Uh Oh, those axles have Green bearings already installed. This means a couple things for you.....you need to change the axle tube ends to use the green bearings, they are a sealed bearing, not tapered, and need the Green bearing style races (non-tapered) in the ends on the tube.

Another thing, and you need to call Dr. Diff to clarify, I believe you need to remove the thrust button in the center of the PIG to use these axles, as the thrust button is used to set the endplay, a procedure not used for Green bearings, and I believe the thrust button will not allow these axles to fully seat in the housing. Maybe someone running Green bearings can chime in and confirm this, but I believe that this information is accurate!! Geof
 
I did not notice the bearings on those. This is a budget build drag car. I will find a set of axles that I can install without any modifications. Any suggestions? Will I have to remove the chunk to install new axles? Like I said, this is all new to me.
 
Detailed procedure, and more important, how to set the end play, right in your service manual:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

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I do not think you need to remove the trust button as the axles from Dr Diff fit all Sure Grips.
 
Something else to keep in mind about replacement axles is a lot of them require using wider brakes off an E or B-body. If your car has the stock 1-3/4" wide A-body brakes they may not work. If you want a direct bolt in check out what www.moserengineering.com has to offer. For some reason I can't get their site to come up right now or I'd post a direct link. I was just looking at axles on their site a couple days ago and saw they have several different options. There is 2 levels. stock replacement axles and high strength ones. Prices are good too.
 
robertnb64 said:
I do not think you need to remove the trust button as the axles from Dr Diff fit all Sure Grips.
Click to expand...

Thats why I suggested a call to the good Doc to clarify this. Any axle will fit a suregrip unit, which has no bearing on the thrust button, which is in place in all 8 3/4" rears to set the endplay. It is when you use the Green style bearings, which have no adjustment needs, that the thrust button is usually removed. I don't believe this situation was addressed when these bearings first came into play, and maybe this situation was recently addressed by Dr. Diff to make taking apart the rearend to remove the thrust button unnecessary.

Just like our original poster here, he would like to slide out the axles and replace them with a different unit without changing anything else, and I don't believe the aftermarket has conquered this need yet, especially if he is planning on running the OE 1 3/4" brakes, which are not drilled for 4.5" BP, hence the need to change the brakes also. Alas, I think the answer for our friend HemiTM is either a complete change of axles, tube ends and brakes or OE style SBP axles with the proper backspaced flange for his 1 3/4" brakes, if that is what he is currently running. Maybe a message from Hemi on his brake setup can help solve this for him!!! Geof
 
I am running the OE 1 3/4 drum brakes. I purchased this rear end for $75.00 from a mother who was upset her son had left car parts all over the place when he moved out. I have had it completly rebuilt. When the OE axles were out, I had them redrilled for BBP. I had the brake drums drilled also. The drums still have plenty of life. I have a line lock in the car. I am not sure how the flange got bent. I probably would have never noticed it had I not had the car jacked up putting a new drive shaft safety loop on. I spun the wheel and noticed a drag. Started the car up put it in gear (Car is up on jacks, with front wheels blocked) and noticed a wooble.
 
I went to the Moser website. I think I have found what I need.
Part # A30-CST-A45 - A-Body, 8 3/4" Rear Axle Shafts, Stock A-Body Drum Brake (Redrilled) -- 30 Spline
 
HemiTM said:
I went to the Moser website. I think I have found what I need.
Part # A30-CST-A45 - A-Body, 8 3/4" Rear Axle Shafts, Stock A-Body Drum Brake (Redrilled) -- 30 Spline
Click to expand...

I tried to post a link to those axles lase eve. but couldn't get Moser's site to come up. They sell direct replacement axles for stock 1-3/4" wide A-body brakes with either the std. 4" bolt circle or larger 4-1/2" bolt circle. In addition to that they sell them for the larger E and B body brakes, as noted in my post above. Therefore they DO sell direct bolt in axles. They also sell all of those configurations in 2 grades of axles, std. replacement alloy or high strength alloy. Here is a link to the page that you can find any style of axle you would need.

http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/stock-mopar-custom-alloy-axles.html
 
cosgig said:
Uh Oh, those axles have Green bearings already installed. This means a couple things for you.....you need to change the axle tube ends to use the green bearings, they are a sealed bearing, not tapered, and need the Green bearing style races (non-tapered) in the ends on the tube.

Another thing, and you need to call Dr. Diff to clarify, I believe you need to remove the thrust button in the center of the PIG to use these axles, as the thrust button is used to set the endplay, a procedure not used for Green bearings, and I believe the thrust button will not allow these axles to fully seat in the housing. Maybe someone running Green bearings can chime in and confirm this, but I believe that this information is accurate!! Geof
Click to expand...

Uh... where did you get that information Geof? I haven't actually installed a set of "green" bearings but since they are a sealed bearing why do they need races? A lot of Ford 9" rears use the same type of sealed bearing and they do not have any type of race. And "change the axle tube ends"? It's always been my understanding that "green" bearings slide right in where tapered bearings come out.
 
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