Changing to right hand threads

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68GTconvert

68GTconvert

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I am putting some 17's on my car and need to switch out to right hand threads to get the lugs to fit. Do I have to remove the rear axle and the rotor? Can I bang them out or do I need a press. Also where can i buy new 7/16 studs?
 
Working backwards, here:

Year One, among others, sells new studs. RH only, from what I could find. They also seemed to be the cheapest around, although with shipping to the Left Coast it might cost a little more. Less than $3/lug, though. There were some other sites that came up to - Google is your friend here. Just make sure the length, pitch, and dia. are correct.

Also, in reference to your second question, you will have better results with an arbor press - solid bar stock of a similar diameter will work, but be careful with that hammer! Slow and steady wins the race - don't try to get it out in one shot.

As for removal of the axle and rotor, if you have discs (which it sounds like you do, if you have rotors) then it may be necessary. If you can access the backside (head) of the studs, then you should be safe. Otherwise, removal may be required.

Hope this helps!
 
its so much easier to take the axle out and use a press....forget trying to use a hammer
 
I find the hammer method the easiest. Saves the chance of an axle seal leak. I use a BIG hammer and just tap them out. Use a socket and/or a stack of washers along with the lug nut to draw the new stud head back down against the axle shaft flange. Try your local tire store. Some have a good stock of replacement studs and nuts.
 
NAPA will have the studs you need.
You may or may not have to remove the axle depending on how long your present studs are.
 
cudamark said:
I find the hammer method the easiest. Saves the chance of an axle seal leak. I use a BIG hammer and just tap them out. Use a socket and/or a stack of washers along with the lug nut to draw the new stud head back down against the axle shaft flange. Try your local tire store. Some have a good stock of replacement studs and nuts.
Click to expand...

This method worked for me. It did not take a ton of force to get them out. Just be patient and go straight.

As was also mentioned, the length of the stud will come into play. If it's too long it won't fit out the back side. Same goes for installing the replacements.
 
Thread a nut onto the stud flush with the end prior to hammering or you will mushroom the end of the stud. Not too big a deal if you never want to re-use the stud but it also helps to keep the blow square.
 
I just ordered rear studs Dorman 610-186. These are the correct studs. My car was converted already except for on wheel is still left studs. Wierd, not sure why?
 
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