Charging/Alternator Problem

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scuba0331

scuba0331

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I have a 1974 Duster that I rewired with a Bare Bonz Ron Francis wiring kit. I can not get the alternator to charge. I have the alternator tested and it is working properly. I am on my second voltage regulator and am still having the same problem.

The alterntor has the main feed wire going to the starter solenoid. There is field wire going to alternator from the regulator plug which is connected to the A side of the regulator. Then there is a jumper wire between the A and S on the plug. On the regulator plug there is a wire that connects the F side to the fuse box. There is a ground on the regulator to a grounding strip. There is a ground on the second filed terminal going to a grounding strip.

This is what I have so far I am not sure what it all means but was hoping somone could help.

Here is the info with the key off

Battery: 12.9V
Main Power at Alternator: 12.9V
Field 1: 0v
Field 2 (Ground): 0V
Fuse Box: 0V
Regulator (A,S,F): 0V

Here is the info with the Key On and or Running:

Battery: 12.3V
Main Power at Alternator: 12.3V
Field 1: 10.4v
Field 2 (Ground): .2V
Fuse Box: 12.2V
Regulator: A and S: 12.0V
F: 10.4V

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!
 
I also have the Ron Francis system..
From your post I think you have one wire wrong.. The field wire from the alt is NOT hooked into the fuse Box directly.

The brown wire connection at terminal F on the regulator gets hooked up to the Field terminal on the Alternator.. The 2nd field on the Alt gets grounded.

The wire connected to A on the regulator is hooked up at the fuse box.
Your power line at the starter is correct


I made an alteration to their regulator wiring after reading on the Mad Electrical site. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml
The Ron Francis regulator plug has 2 of the lines jumpered together.. I cut the jumper
I connected the terminal marked A at the regulator to the power point, either where your alt connects to the starter, or to a terminal block.
Then you connect the S terminal to the fuse box " Alt Feed" spot

My electrical is now ROCK solid.
P.m and I can get you more info if you wish.
 
Ken, thanks, PM sent and I am going to read the Mad Electrical website. I've read it before and now that I have wired my car it should make more sense! (I hope!)
 
You have it wired wrong. Here's how an isolated field system is wired:

(Ignore the dotted lines, this is a conversion diagram from old to new)

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Mip5FCAyT...yM/s1600/Voltage+Regulator+Wiring+Diagram.jpg

NEITHER of the field connections is grounded. One goes to "switched ignition" or "ignition run"

The "top center" post of the regulator as shown in the diagram also goes to switched ignition (ignition run) and MUST have a good solid connection through the key to 12V battery because this is also the "sense" lead and determines the charging voltage

(On original factory cars, the two above described points hooked to the switch side of the coil resistor)

The remaining field terminal on the alternator goes to the post on the regulator as shown.

The case of the regulator MUST have a good ground to the battery as this also determines charging voltage

Your "main lead" should be fine as you described
 
I am sure you are correct on original equipment wiring,, but the Ron Francis kit does it a bit differently..
All I know is my second field post on the alternator is grounded and it works fine.
 
I don't get it as my Ron Francis wiring system has a built in regulator on its fuse box. The instructions here tell me to hook up the large yellow wire to the bat terminal and run the other end to #38 on the panel. Didn't RF know you were putting this wiring system on a Mopar? and if so, why are you using another regualator.

OK I'm done
 
ken5124 said:
I am sure you are correct on original equipment wiring,, but the Ron Francis kit does it a bit differently..
All I know is my second field post on the alternator is grounded and it works fine.
Click to expand...


Sorry didn't realize this was done so much differently. I Googled the Ron Francis site a little and found not much info, but it appears that according to them you need to buy either a VR-88 or VR-99 from them. It appears that these regulators hook up the same as the early Mopar (69 and earlier)

I'd say at this point you need to get specific about JUST WHICH harness you are using and maybe contact Ron Francis
 
Thanks for the help so far. I updated the background info in the original post.

Ken sent me a PM and I wrote down something incorrectly with regards to how the field wire was run to the alternator.

Been messing with this all day with the same result.

I have the Bare Bonz wiring kit with the VR-88 regultor. I did get another one from Advanced auto just and tried it with the same result.
 
scuba0331 said:
Thanks for the help so far. I updated the background info in the original post.

Ken sent me a PM and I wrote down something incorrectly with regards to how the field wire was run to the alternator.

Been messing with this all day with the same result.

I have the Bare Bonz wiring kit with the VR-88 regultor. I did get another one from Advanced auto just and tried it with the same result.
Click to expand...

I can find little info on the web about these regulators, but they appear to hook-up like the 69/ earlier Mopar units. What this means is that one of your field connections will be gounded, and you should be able to check continuity with a light from the OTHER field connector to one of the connections on this regulator.

The second connector on this regulator should go to switched ignition (12V) and the case MUST be grounded.

If anyone has a link to a diagram for these kits, I'd appreciate it.
 
67Dart273 said:
I can find little info on the web about these regulators, but they appear to hook-up like the 69/ earlier Mopar units. What this means is that one of your field connections will be gounded, and you should be able to check continuity with a light from the OTHER field connector to one of the connections on this regulator.

The second connector on this regulator should go to switched ignition (12V) and the case MUST be grounded.

If anyone has a link to a diagram for these kits, I'd appreciate it.
Click to expand...

That's exactly how it is hooked up!

The Ford regulator # is E2PZ-10316A and the Napa regulator # is VR-438.
 
Well all this BS'ing around and it was another bad alternator.

Funny thing is I had the second one checked at the local parts store and it checked out good. I put and old crusty alternator on and it charges like a dream. I guess I'm not destined for a chrome one!

Thanks for the help.

Ken thanks for the PM's!
 
ken5124 said:
I also have the Ron Francis system..
From your post I think you have one wire wrong.. The field wire from the alt is NOT hooked into the fuse Box directly.

The brown wire connection at terminal F on the regulator gets hooked up to the Field terminal on the Alternator.. The 2nd field on the Alt gets grounded.

The wire connected to A on the regulator is hooked up at the fuse box.
Your power line at the starter is correct


I made an alteration to their regulator wiring after reading on the Mad Electrical site. Catalog
The Ron Francis regulator plug has 2 of the lines jumpered together.. I cut the jumper
I connected the terminal marked A at the regulator to the power point, either where your alt connects to the starter, or to a terminal block.
Then you connect the S terminal to the fuse box " Alt Feed" spot

My electrical is now ROCK solid.
P.m and I can get you more info if you wish.
Click to expand...
Can you send a pic of your modifications
Have battery in trunk and aftermarket gauges and ron Francis Express kit and wont charge more than 11.8v thanks
 
tim75 said:
Can you send a pic of your modifications
Have battery in trunk and aftermarket gauges and ron Francis Express kit and wont charge more than 11.8v thanks
Click to expand...
You need to start a new thread. 11.8 is not "charging" The car is simply running the battery down.
 
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