Charging issues

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Deeeno

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Can someone tell me what the output should read at the battery with the engine running ? I have a 65 barracuda electronic ignition, no ac and I seem to have issues with it charging it has a new alternator and new voltage regulator basically everything is new also it has a 360 magnum motor . Thanks for any help
 
If you have the stock alternator and the stock voltage regulator the FSM says 13.6 to 14.6 @ 47 Deg F ambient and 13.1 to 14.1 @ 163 Deg F ambient with the engine at 1250 RPM..
 
What makes you think you have a charging problem?

If the alternator indicator is bouncing around or showing discharge at idle the alternator might just have a pully that us too large. I went from the rebuilders favorite about 2.75 inch dia to the stock about 2.5 and the guage is calm now.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
If it's lower than 13.5 or higher than 14.9 you got a problem.
Click to expand...
Dana67Dart said:
What makes you think you have a charging problem?

If the alternator indicator is bouncing around or showing discharge at idle the alternator might just have a pully that us too large. I went from the rebuilders favorite about 2.75 inch dia to the stock about 2.5 and the guage is calm now.
Click to expand...
this kind of sounds like maybe my problem , when I check the output there is nothing when I check the out put at the alternator it kinda bounces with my test meter , where did you get a smaller pulley?
 
Dana67Dart said:
What makes you think you have a charging problem?

If the alternator indicator is bouncing around or showing discharge at idle the alternator might just have a pully that us too large. I went from the rebuilders favorite about 2.75 inch dia to the stock about 2.5 and the guage is calm now.
Click to expand...
I am pretty sure I have a charging problem because it just seems to run off the battery till it dies. Everything is new in the engine compartment even the wiring harnesses , when I start it and check it with a meter it reads the exact same as when I test just the battery without it running . This has me going nuts !!!
 
Deeeno said:
I am pretty sure I have a charging problem because it just seems to run off the battery till it dies. Everything is new in the engine compartment even the wiring harnesses , when I start it and check it with a meter it reads the exact same as when I test just the battery without it running . This has me going nuts !!!
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How about you stop dancing and tell us some specifics?

What WAS the reading? (reading(s) you took?) And under what conditions?

Do you know how/ what have you tried in the manner of troubleshooting?

What exactly do we have here, AKA what is the alternator off of, and what are you using for a voltage regulator? Are you using the stock 65 stuff or what?
 
67Dart273 said:
How about you stop dancing and tell us some specifics?

What WAS the reading? (reading(s) you took?) And under what conditions?

Do you know how/ what have you tried in the manner of troubleshooting?

What exactly do we have here, AKA what is the alternator off of, and what are you using for a voltage regulator? Are you using the stock 65 stuff or what?
Click to expand...
When I test the battery I get 12.6v when I start it and check again it’s the same exact reading it makes no difference whether I run the rpm up nothing changes so to me it seems it’s not getting anything as far as any charge. Alternator is an ac delco remanufactered and it is the second one I have tried so it’s new , the voltage regulator is new as well. I have checked all my grounds and they test good. The wiring harness is all new as well . What else can I tell you that may help ? I am good with basic electrical but far from being an expert for sure .
 
This is most certainly NOT charging, OR the output from the alternator is NOT actulally "making it" to the battery. Check the output stud of the alternator when running and see if it s "same as battery" or way high. If "same as battery" AKA 12. something it is NOT charging

OK how do you have the alternator wired to the vr and what model IS the VR, that is 69/ earlier Mopar, 70 / later Mopar or some other? What exactly is the Delco, model, or series, what is it off of?

IF you are using Mopar regulators, there are two major differences......the 69/ earlier (came with your car) has one insulated field terminal, and the other end is grounded through the brush holder. The VR is grounded, and gets 12V power from the "run" circuit, and the VR controls the amount of field current to control the charge.

On a 70/ later system, the field has BOTH ends insulated, and one end gets 12V and the other end goes to the VR, which controls "the amount of grounding" of the field, which in that way also controls field current and the amount of charge.

I cannot tell you how to test yours until I know what you have.........maybe post some photos of the VR/ alternator and wiring
 
67Dart273 said:
This is most certainly NOT charging, OR the output from the alternator is NOT actulally "making it" to the battery. Check the output stud of the alternator when running and see if it s "same as battery" or way high. If "same as battery" AKA 12. something it is NOT charging

OK how do you have the alternator wired to the vr and what model IS the VR, that is 69/ earlier Mopar, 70 / later Mopar or some other? What exactly is the Delco, model, or series, what is it off of?

IF you are using Mopar regulators, there are two major differences......the 69/ earlier (came with your car) has one insulated field terminal, and the other end is grounded through the brush holder. The VR is grounded, and gets 12V power from the "run" circuit, and the VR controls the amount of field current to control the charge.

On a 70/ later system, the field has BOTH ends insulated, and one end gets 12V and the other end goes to the VR, which controls "the amount of grounding" of the field, which in that way also controls field current and the amount of charge.

I cannot tell you how to test yours until I know what you have.........maybe post some photos of the VR/ alternator and wiring
Click to expand...
Thanks for helping I will get some pics tomorrow I really appreciate it
 
67Dart273 said:
This is most certainly NOT charging, OR the output from the alternator is NOT actulally "making it" to the battery. Check the output stud of the alternator when running and see if it s "same as battery" or way high. If "same as battery" AKA 12. something it is NOT charging

OK how do you have the alternator wired to the vr and what model IS the VR, that is 69/ earlier Mopar, 70 / later Mopar or some other? What exactly is the Delco, model, or series, what is it off of?

IF you are using Mopar regulators, there are two major differences......the 69/ earlier (came with your car) has one insulated field terminal, and the other end is grounded through the brush holder. The VR is grounded, and gets 12V power from the "run" circuit, and the VR controls the amount of field current to control the charge.

On a 70/ later system, the field has BOTH ends insulated, and one end gets 12V and the other end goes to the VR, which controls "the amount of grounding" of the field, which in that way also controls field current and the amount of charge.

I cannot tell you how to test yours until I know what you have.........maybe post some photos of the VR/ alternator and wiring
Click to expand...
Here are some pics of the alternator I got on rock auto it was the best one that was a direct fit not sure of the brand on the VR

C9141CD5-59B0-4FD3-AC8B-A720409D692A.jpeg


46010922-23F8-4611-B85D-DA7BC937016C.jpeg


DCF33215-F55A-4406-8920-E0529CBC15C2.jpeg
 
I may be wrong, but it looks like you are missing the “Blue” field wire to the back of the Alt. Where’s the blue wire from the VR going? May have to pull the loom apart from the VR to chase the wire.
 
That is the simple "early style" (pre 70) just like came on the car. HOWEVER it is a LATE alternator (post 70) This means that one brush MUST be grounded. Remove the green wire and check with your multimeter between the two field terminals. Should show low continuity. On a "normal" post 70 alternator you want to then measure the field terminals to ground and see an "open" or "infinity."

But because you have the EARLY VR you want the opposite field from where the green is connected to be GROUNDED. You can either run a jumper wire to ground from the other field, or if you are careful, you can substitute a metal washer for the insulated one at one brush holder and ground that brush/ field terminal.

Try it again and if it will not charge..............then..............


Clip a voltmeter to the big output stud where the black wire is. Should measure "same as battery" 12.X V Connect a jumper wire from the exposed

Remove the green wire from the alternator. Connect a jumper wire from the that alternator terminal to the battery. Start car and monitor ammeter in car and your voltmeter. Voltmeter should climb up. Manage engine RPM and try to keep V down below 16V. Now move voltmeter to battery post and it should read same readings

If it runs "HIGH" voltage at the alternator but not the battery, there is a break in the circuit path from the alternator to the battery

If it charges and reads approx same at both points, and voltage can be brought above 14V then the VR is likely bad OR MAY NOT be grounded OR MAY NOT be getting power through the blue wire to the VR. With key "on" (run position) you should have battery voltage at the VR at the blue wire.
 
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Scody21 said:
I may be wrong, but it looks like you are missing the “Blue” field wire to the back of the Alt. Where’s the blue wire from the VR going? May have to pull the loom apart from the VR to chase the wire.
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This is the early system ----No "blue" at the alternator
 
67Dart273 said:
This is the early system ----No "blue" at the alternator
Click to expand...

I would agree. I would also agree he needs to ground the second field terminal something like this. I realize this is the isolated field round back but the principle is the same.

Mopar Alternator-1.png
 
Looks like these good guys got ya figured out. Give it a shot

That VR looks like the original style mechanical with points inside. I'm guessing it's electronic guts, but I don't know.
 
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65TerrorCuda said:
Looks like these good guys got ya figured out. Give it a shot

That VR looks like the original style mechanical with points inside. I'm guessing it's electronic guts, but I don't know.
Click to expand...
Yes it electronics inside not the “old style in the VR
 
67Dart273 said:
That is the simple "early style" (pre 70) just like came on the car. HOWEVER it is a LATE alternator (post 70) This means that one brush MUST be grounded. Remove the green wire and check with your multimeter between the two field terminals. Should show low continuity. On a "normal" post 70 alternator you want to then measure the field terminals to ground and see an "open" or "infinity."

But because you have the EARLY VR you want the opposite field from where the green is connected to be GROUNDED. You can either run a jumper wire to ground from the other field, or if you are careful, you can substitute a metal washer for the insulated one at one brush holder and ground that brush/ field terminal.

Try it again and if it will not charge..............then..............


Clip a voltmeter to the big output stud where the black wire is. Should measure "same as battery" 12.X V Connect a jumper wire from the exposed

Remove the green wire from the alternator. Connect a jumper wire from the that alternator terminal to the battery. Start car and monitor ammeter in car and your voltmeter. Voltmeter should climb up. Manage engine RPM and try to keep V down below 16V. Now move voltmeter to battery post and it should read same readings

If it runs "HIGH" voltage at the alternator but not the battery, there is a break in the circuit path from the alternator to the battery

If it charges and reads approx same at both points, and voltage can be brought above 14V then the VR is likely bad OR MAY NOT be grounded OR MAY NOT be getting power through the blue wire to the VR. With key "on" (run position) you should have battery voltage at the VR at the blue wire.
Click to expand...
Thanks I will give it a try
 
67Dart273 said:
That is the simple "early style" (pre 70) just like came on the car. HOWEVER it is a LATE alternator (post 70) This means that one brush MUST be grounded. Remove the green wire and check with your multimeter between the two field terminals. Should show low continuity. On a "normal" post 70 alternator you want to then measure the field terminals to ground and see an "open" or "infinity."

But because you have the EARLY VR you want the opposite field from where the green is connected to be GROUNDED. You can either run a jumper wire to ground from the other field, or if you are careful, you can substitute a metal washer for the insulated one at one brush holder and ground that brush/ field terminal.

Try it again and if it will not charge..............then..............


Clip a voltmeter to the big output stud where the black wire is. Should measure "same as battery" 12.X V Connect a jumper wire from the exposed

Remove the green wire from the alternator. Connect a jumper wire from the that alternator terminal to the battery. Start car and monitor ammeter in car and your voltmeter. Voltmeter should climb up. Manage engine RPM and try to keep V down below 16V. Now move voltmeter to battery post and it should read same readings

If it runs "HIGH" voltage at the alternator but not the battery, there is a break in the circuit path from the alternator to the battery

If it charges and reads approx same at both points, and voltage can be brought above 14V then the VR is likely bad OR MAY NOT be grounded OR MAY NOT be getting power through the blue wire to the VR. With key "on" (run position) you should have battery voltage at the VR at the blue wire.
Click to expand...
Ok so I ran the ground to the second “field “ terminal stil don’t see anything more than I had at the battery so I pulled off the green wire from the VR and ran a jumper from that to the battery and it does what you say it should , it was about 12.8 and kept rising , then I ran a separate ground wire from the VR to a known good ground and re installed the green wire and back to no output . So it’s probably the VR ?
 
Sounds like it. Does the VR have good solid 12V with key "in run?" Is it for certain grounded? It "seems odd" that with a simple problem like the field not grounded, that the VR might also be bad.

Before replacing VR, make some more checks---you know the alternator works

Disconnect green at VR and at alternator, check for grounding, it should be "open" to ground. Check continuity end to end. Further check charging by removing VR and jumpering the blue and green wires together at VR and hook up alternator "noormal" Re -run engine, see if voltage comes up. If so, has to be the VR is bad. MAKE CERTAIN it is grounded
 
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