Hey there folks. Trouble again! I have a 73 Valiant and just put in a very low mileage 65 Super Six engine and tranny (auto).Everything seemed fine for the first few days,but I went away for a long weekend and came back to find it with a dead battery. I charged the battery and it started,drove to town,parked. Came back 2 hours later,dead again! It seemed to lose power drastically when I turned on the lights. Sure enough,the Alt was bad,replaced it,jumped it,let it run a bit,still couldn't get the amp gauge past the middle but seemed like it would go. Drove without lights for a bit,but as soon as I turned them on,lost power. Two more stops and jumps got me home just barely. So. The new Alternator seems to be sending power but the battery doesn't seem to be holding it,but it should be a good battery.Sorry,long post,but I need a wiring diagram for a 73 with electronic ignition,(we kept the components from the old engine) and maybe a vacuum diagram as well. I have to get this fixed today! Any help?
Charging woes-urgent.
- Thread starter baucco
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Usable diagrams at MyMopar
(Be careful, I've found some mistakes in a couple of years, I think the bulkhead connector labeling)
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg
which came from here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Are you using the original 4 terminal ballast, or 2 terminal ballast?
Some info on the electronic ignition
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf
older 5 terminal ECU with 4 terminal resistor
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_5pin.jpg
Newer 4 terminal ECU with 2 terminal resistor:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_4pin.jpg
YOU MAY HAVE multiple problems
ONE First make sure the battery does not have a "drain" on it from the system. Remove the ground from the battery and connect your test light from the battery NEG post to ground. Do this in a shaded darkened area. ANY light from the test lamp indicates a system drain. Make sure the glove box, trunk light, underhood light, all courtesy lights, etc are off. Make sure the cigarette lighter is pulled out, radio off, etc.
If you show a drain, start by removing fuses one at a time until the drain goes away
NEXT Your system DEFINATELY is not charging. But it SOUNDS as if you may have multiple problems.
IF the battery is in good condition AND is charged up, it should be able to start and run the car several times. You should be able to drive it many miles in daylight, and at least several miles at night with headlights.
SO remove the battery and either substitute another temporarily, or have it load tested. Be sure and charge it first, and let it set at least an hour before load testing.
IF THE ABOVE is OK, next attack the charging system.
Pull the connector off at the regulator. Turn the key to run, engine off. Remove both "push on" connectors at the alternator. Use your test lamp or meter to determine which one is "hot" with key in run, and it should be the BLUE wire.
Reconnect the blue wire. Take a clip lead and GROUND the remaining alternator push-on field terminal.
Start the engine, and gently bring up RPM. The ammeter should start to show a charge, the more RPM, the more charge. Don't "go nuts" as you are running with NO regulator and you don't want the voltage too high.
When you get this far, post back.
(Be careful, I've found some mistakes in a couple of years, I think the bulkhead connector labeling)
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg
which came from here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Are you using the original 4 terminal ballast, or 2 terminal ballast?
Some info on the electronic ignition
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf
older 5 terminal ECU with 4 terminal resistor
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_5pin.jpg
Newer 4 terminal ECU with 2 terminal resistor:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_4pin.jpg
YOU MAY HAVE multiple problems
ONE First make sure the battery does not have a "drain" on it from the system. Remove the ground from the battery and connect your test light from the battery NEG post to ground. Do this in a shaded darkened area. ANY light from the test lamp indicates a system drain. Make sure the glove box, trunk light, underhood light, all courtesy lights, etc are off. Make sure the cigarette lighter is pulled out, radio off, etc.
If you show a drain, start by removing fuses one at a time until the drain goes away
NEXT Your system DEFINATELY is not charging. But it SOUNDS as if you may have multiple problems.
IF the battery is in good condition AND is charged up, it should be able to start and run the car several times. You should be able to drive it many miles in daylight, and at least several miles at night with headlights.
SO remove the battery and either substitute another temporarily, or have it load tested. Be sure and charge it first, and let it set at least an hour before load testing.
IF THE ABOVE is OK, next attack the charging system.
Pull the connector off at the regulator. Turn the key to run, engine off. Remove both "push on" connectors at the alternator. Use your test lamp or meter to determine which one is "hot" with key in run, and it should be the BLUE wire.
Reconnect the blue wire. Take a clip lead and GROUND the remaining alternator push-on field terminal.
Start the engine, and gently bring up RPM. The ammeter should start to show a charge, the more RPM, the more charge. Don't "go nuts" as you are running with NO regulator and you don't want the voltage too high.
When you get this far, post back.
So I tested the blue field wire and it's hot,but only showing low 11's with engine off,key on. Tested voltage regulator,key on,engine off. Both wires have current,low to mid 10's. Not sure how to go about grounding the green wire to test further. With engine running and warm,testing across the battery only shows low 12's. Same when I test from main stud on Alt across to Neg on battery. Low 12's but increases with acceleration.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK, the low voltage may be that the battery is getting low, because it certainly is not charging.
"The quick test" to see if the alternator CAN charge now, is to do the following
You've identified the blue field wire and it has power
Now remove the OTHER (green) field wire from the alternator, and ground alternator field terminal you have just exposed with a clip lead. Once again, ground the ALTERNATOR field terminal, and NOT the wire you just removed.
Now start the car and gently bring up engine RPM, watching the ammeter. It should start to show more and more charge (needle to right of center) as you bring up RPM. Don't go nuts with this, as you have bypassed the regulator.
If this checks out so far, next you need to determine if it is the regulator WIRING or the regulator ITSELF
So if the above test showed a charge , reconnect the green field wire to the alternator. Move up to the regulator and remove the connector at the regulator. Inspect it and the regulator terminals for corrosion, and remove/ replace the connector several times to "scrub" the terminals clean. "Feel" it for tightness as you connect it.
Next, devise a way to jumper the green field wire to ground. This may take two people. Again, start the engine, bring up RPM and look for a charge. If it shows a charge, next ---
(You may have already) With key on, engine off, check for voltage at BOTH regulator harness connector terminals. If you have voltage, and if the alternator showed a charge in the tests above, replace the regulator.
"The quick test" to see if the alternator CAN charge now, is to do the following
You've identified the blue field wire and it has power
Now remove the OTHER (green) field wire from the alternator, and ground alternator field terminal you have just exposed with a clip lead. Once again, ground the ALTERNATOR field terminal, and NOT the wire you just removed.
Now start the car and gently bring up engine RPM, watching the ammeter. It should start to show more and more charge (needle to right of center) as you bring up RPM. Don't go nuts with this, as you have bypassed the regulator.
If this checks out so far, next you need to determine if it is the regulator WIRING or the regulator ITSELF
So if the above test showed a charge , reconnect the green field wire to the alternator. Move up to the regulator and remove the connector at the regulator. Inspect it and the regulator terminals for corrosion, and remove/ replace the connector several times to "scrub" the terminals clean. "Feel" it for tightness as you connect it.
Next, devise a way to jumper the green field wire to ground. This may take two people. Again, start the engine, bring up RPM and look for a charge. If it shows a charge, next ---
(You may have already) With key on, engine off, check for voltage at BOTH regulator harness connector terminals. If you have voltage, and if the alternator showed a charge in the tests above, replace the regulator.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You must live WAY to close to a "third world rebuilder!!"
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