Cheap, Good Not Too Loud Mufflers for your Single or Dual Exhaust A Body

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I don't have a video since I just installed them yesterday but they sound like what they replaced:

I truly enjoyed your drive and walk around video, you have done a great job on this build, congratulations, and thank you for sharing.
Do you have a utube page I can subscribe to and enjoy? Oh, one more thing, what gears are you running and what axle back there, I missed it or forgot.. beautiful MoPar sir.
 
I truly enjoyed your drive and walk around video, you have done a great job on this build, congratulations, and thank you for sharing.
Do you have a utube page I can subscribe to and enjoy? Oh, one more thing, what gears are you running and what axle back there, I missed it or forgot.. beautiful MoPar sir.
Hello memike,
Thanks for the kind words. I am glad you enjoyed the car/build/video.

Subecribe to hyperpack on youtube.

Thank you.
 
I truly enjoyed your drive and walk around video, you have done a great job on this build, congratulations, and thank you for sharing.
Do you have a utube page I can subscribe to and enjoy? Oh, one more thing, what gears are you running and what axle back there, I missed it or forgot.. beautiful MoPar sir.
The axle is a sure grip A body 8 3/4" with a 3.23 ratio. I have kept it all 4" bolt pattern as it would have come from the factory.
 
No one has ever installed an exhaust on one of my cars truly to my satisfaction. The only right way to me is to take a hacksaw and cut slots about an inch down the sides of the outer pipes, where one slips over the other, at 4-6 points around the pipe. This allows the pipe to compress and conform without crushing it into oblivion when the clamps are tightened. This is very obvious to me what a good idea it is. The slots will carbon up in a few weeks, if they leak at all.

I once had an exhaust shop try to use the sheet steel clamp bands on an exhaust for an '11 Dodge Challenger, the band metal would have stretched long before the pipe compressed.

When I had my 1973 Dusters muffler changed last winter, the shop welded it in despite me telling them to clamp it. I don't think I will let him install the new TTI 2-1/2" system I have, still in its original box. I'll do it myself in the driveway and get it done right.
 
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The axle is a sure grip A body 8 3/4" with a 3.23 ratio. I have kept it all 4" bolt pattern as it would have come from the factory.
You have done an extra excellent job, love the build 100 percent personally.
 
I have found that this muffler also works fine on an F body. I installed one last month on my 318-4V Aspen SW - Only thing is that I did not have a 2 1/4" Tail pipe so I used some adapters, but I got a local muffler shop to bend up a 2 1/4" Pipe after I took them an original 1 7/8" F Body Tail pipe to use as a pattern.
 
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Hi guys, I finally Got around to it;
Here is a video depicting what they sound like on a true dual exhaust inline 6. No H pipe, no X pipe, and no Y pipe, jut the front 3 in the left side, and the rear 3 in the right side.

Enjoy!
 
I am not sure on that. Maybe.

H pipes are for V engines or V8's from what I understand.
I am never behind my car when I am driving it, so they sound fine to me.

I would be willing to bet they sound like that on any engine with a good cam and at least 10.25:1 static comptession with an even 120⁰ firing spacing on the compression strokes.
 

The linked 4.0 Cherokee muffler is a great deal less raspy-buzzy; it's tuned to deal with the particulars of an inline 6.

And yes, a thoughtfully specced and placed balance pipe quiets down a 6.
 
anyone try AP Enforcer #3762?
2 1/4" in and out, about 20" long. Suppose to be quiet.
 
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