Check flares on preformed lines!

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Wvbuzzmaster

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Bought stainless steel brake lines for my Duster and after installing the passenger front to distribution block line (easily the hardest one while engine is installed), I found an issue. The double flare at the distribution block was not completed!!!!!! I am so frustrated by that... and if had still had headers on the car it would have been impossible to get the double flare tools in there with the car on a lift.... end of day not impressed with the Inline Tube lines..... sorry but used to like them until fighting an incomplete flare on the worst line to install in the worst location to deal with it... and still wont know if it doesn’t leak until I get the fluid in it....


Oh, and I bought one of those repop distribution/proportioning blocks and see a thread about those leaking so hoping I don’t have that problem next...
 
Wvbuzzmaster said:
Bought stainless steel brake lines for my Duster and after installing the passenger front to distribution block line (easily the hardest one while engine is installed), I found an issue. The double flare at the distribution block was not completed!!!!!! I am so frustrated by that... and if had still had headers on the car it would have been impossible to get the double flare tools in there with the car on a lift.... end of day not impressed with the Inline Tube lines..... sorry but used to like them until fighting an incomplete flare on the worst line to install in the worst location to deal with it... and still wont know if it doesn’t leak until I get the fluid in it....


Oh, and I bought one of those repop distribution/proportioning blocks and see a thread about those leaking so hoping I don’t have that problem next...
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That sucks man.. Hopefully you don't have a faulty valve now.
What distribution/proportioning valve did you buy?
 
I heard the Parker flare gaskets work really well for sealing leaky flare connections. Gonna pick some up for my distribution block since it leaks.

4E18462A-E998-470D-BC42-C9479930DA18.jpeg
 
Righty Tighty said:
I heard the Parker flare gaskets work really well for sealing leaky flare connections. Gonna pick some up for my distribution block since it leaks.

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Hmm. That looks like it would work great. I assume it is copper. and we all know that copper washers work well with banjo bolt fittings. I think I'll get some just to have handy.
 
Those flare gaskets have saved me a considerable amount time fixing leaky fittings. Some old brass fittings are no longer available and when they're worn these are the ticket to get them to seal.
 
So far, so good. The copper flare gaskets are holding up great. I picked up some larger ones for my carburetor as well as some insurance.
 
All the stainless lines have trouble sealing. It's been documented pretty good around here. But, Lemmie get this straight. Some of yall are recommending after buying already overpriced stainless line, to buy stupid little washers too? I got a never ending source of cat ****, since you like spending money needlessly. Here's the tip of the day. Stop trying to be fancy with stainless line and replace with mild steel that lasted fifty plus years the first time. Just send me your money next time.
 
Tighten and loosen, Repeat for maybe up to 2 times or more!

Use a tube wrench, Patience is required! Stainless or plain Steel lines!
 
I did my Entire 66 Plymouth Sat with a 20$ roll of tube.. one at a time, laid side by side...sure, I left a flare nut off once. What killed me? Took FOREVER to Bleed Em. Next time? I'm do one at a time, and Pressure em up, bleed em, THEN rip out the next one...
 
1969383S said:
Tighten and loosen, Repeat for maybe up to 2 times or more!

Use a tube wrench, Patience is required! Stainless or plain Steel lines!
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I usually just snug em, and go a Lil more.. thank You for that Tech Tip! You should Make it a Sticky! And I get it! it'll help make it seat! I know one Thang from plumbing... Don't Just Crank It Till You think it's Good and Tight! Hahaha!
 
Ironracer said:
I usually just snug em, and go a Lil more.. thank You for that Tech Tip! You should Make it a Sticky! And I get it! it'll help make it seat! I know one Thang from plumbing... Don't Just Crank It Till You think it's Good and Tight! Hahaha!
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When I put the Fish back together in 2014 and got to the point of fire up in December that year, It looked like a fountain when bleeding the brakes! I freaked out with the fluid from everywhere and all the new paint! Fortunately it was contained on the lower end with no harm and the exact moment in time I learned to go through the cycle of tighten/loosen and over again! Every line and Hose was replaced in resto and a learning experience! Oddly the Master and connections never puked!
 
Tooljunkie said:
Nickel/copper. Awesome to work with. And resist rust.
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I bought stainless prebent for the front, didn't want to work out bends with the motor in. But NiCopp is everywhere else on the car, including the fuel system. Best stuff ever and it flares easy, even with a cheap tool. But buying a better tool in the $50 range makes a huge difference too. Not as versatile as the ones that do a bunch of sizes and 37/45 angles, but great if you're doing just brakes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV/?tag=fabo03-20
 
that blows. one fitting though. im sure if you called them they would have made things right. i did my entire red express truck with inline tube and man did it fit nice. had maybe one or two small leaks at first but a partial turn on the fitting with a good line wrench did the trick.

on a side note,. i used a set of craftsman line wrenches for many years. never reall happy with how they fit kinda loose. bought a set of used snapon line wrenches to do my express truck. holy crap what a difference. fit much better and never worried about rounding a fitting off like with the craftsman line wrench.
 
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