Checking Torsion Bar Anchors- is impending doom obvious?

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MRGTX

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This came up in the "rust" thread... just wondering if you guys have any tips on what to look for when predicting impending doom...


-Can you see obvious rust?

-Will these fail with fatigue as well?

-Is there a standard preemptive fix?



Mine look fine as far as I can see...car is relatively rust free but any tips or information would be most welcome.
 
Tap on the metal on the underside of the crossmember where you know metal is good and tap it right at the bottom below the anchor and see if it sounds any different. It may sound different due to build up inside but it could also tell you that the metal is thin or rusting from the inside out. I don't know how you can predict disaster but it may help you consider some preventative maintenance.
 
Tap on the metal on the underside of the crossmember where you know metal is good and tap it right at the bottom below the anchor and see if it sounds any different. It may sound different due to build up inside but it could also tell you that the metal is thin or rusting from the inside out. I don't know how you can predict disaster but it may help you consider some preventative maintenance.


Ok... will do!
Thanks for the tip. I'm optimistic about mine... my Dart lived a pretty easy life in terms of exposure to corrosives.

I suppose if things look bad for the Torsion bar anchors, it might be time to price out a welder and a Hotchkis front end kit.
:happy1:
 
The anchors are welded on both sides of the frame. Inside and outside. I have has the rear rotted at approx. 1/3 the way around the anchor. I used a frame cap to cover and weld both inside and outside. It was easy only because of the rusted floor allowed access.
The frame cap was a thick metal unlike the frame itself. This made welding it to the anchor easy.
 
i always jam my finger in a hole and feel for pits. ..maybe take an air nozzle and blow it out real good first then stick a finger in.
 
I had made plates to rebuild mine because the bottom of the frame was rusted out and I knew it would fail at some point. I don't have the bottom plate welded in the picture, but you get the idea.

2052.jpg


2055.jpg
 
its kind of drastic but i suppose if your really worried you could pull the carpet and drill a hole in the floor and take a look inside there. score yourself some body plugs and plug it up.
 
Tap on the metal on the underside of the crossmember where you know metal is good and tap it right at the bottom below the anchor and see if it sounds any different. It may sound different due to build up inside but it could also tell you that the metal is thin or rusting from the inside out. I don't know how you can predict disaster but it may help you consider some preventative maintenance.


Exactly what I was going to say. You can tell by the sound if the metal is sound. (double pun?) My experiences are that the frame sections rust from the inside. When I replaced the front clip, I re-welded the T-bar anchors inside and out then added gusset plates from the frame rail to the anchor inside. It's obvious with the floor out.


Its kind of drastic but i suppose if your really worried you could pull the carpet and drill a hole in the floor and take a look inside there. score yourself some body plugs and plug it up. [/QUOTE said:
Another good idea.
A quick fix is to weld caps on from Auto Rust Technicians (?) If you wait too long, it'll go BANG and twist itself right out of the crossmember.
 
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