Choke thermostat help needed

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krivman65

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Hi all, I recently picked up a "new" exhaust manifold for my '65 because mine is cracked. From what I understand, the choke thermostat is different between the years. My car has the factory Holley 1bbl on it, and I am hoping someone has done this before... Is there a choke thermostat that I can rig up to work between the old Holley carburetor and the newer exhaust manifold?

Thanks!!


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So your "new" exhaust manifold doesn't have the heat well your old one has?

I'm just finishing up converting my '64 Slant from the stock 1920 Holley and exhaust to a BBD two barrel carb and Clifford shorty tube headers. Not having the factory heat well anymore, I cut up a piece of scrap 3/16" steel plate with a Harbor Freight grinder and made this mounting plate for the heat well electric choke conversion I was already using on the Holley 1920.
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I've read that my 1920 electric choke spring rotates the wrong direction to work with my new BBD. Once I reconnect the battery power and I prove that this electric coil spring won't work with my BBD, I may have a deal to offer on this 1920 electric choke.
 
So your "new" exhaust manifold doesn't have the heat well your old one has?

I'm just finishing up converting my '64 Slant from the stock 1920 Holley and exhaust to a BBD two barrel carb and Clifford shorty tube headers. Not having the factory heat well anymore, I cut up a piece of scrap 3/16" steel plate with a Harbor Freight grinder and made this mounting plate for the heat well electric choke conversion I was already using on the Holley 1920.
View attachment 1715900740

I've read that my 1920 electric choke spring rotates the wrong direction to work with my new BBD. Once I reconnect the battery power and I prove that this electric coil spring won't work with my BBD, I may have a deal to offer on this 1920 electric choke.

If you decide to part with it, what will it include?
 
If you decide to part with it, what will it include?
The conversion kit came with the electric coil in a housing that bolted to the factory heat well's threaded holes and a wired in little black box. The little black box is wired to the firewall. I should have the instructions in a file.
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Reverse the coil on it's pivot point .
Nice work .
I was wondering if that would work! I was going to hook the little black box up to a set of battery jumper wires to see what's going on.

@krivman65 I'll look up the supplier for the electric choke conversion kit.
 
You reckon you might can include a picture of the replacement exhaust manifold's choke stove area, since that's what your question is about? :rolleyes:
 
I wonder if that's what the little black box is that came with the conversion kit?
Wait a second. If the coil doesn't stay hot the choke would close. This head cold is a drag...
 
You reckon you might can include a picture of the replacement exhaust manifold's choke stove area, since that's what your question is about? :rolleyes:

Lol yeah, I realized that later, thinking just pictures of the numbers would help. I will post one or two up in a bit.
 
There was a porcelain switch on the manifold that shut off the power when the engine gets hot.

Yes, the choke heater modulator. starting in 1973 (not 1969).

You could prob hook up a rear defrost timer as alternative .

No, totally different animal.

I wonder if that's what the little black box is that came with the conversion kit?
Similar idea, but not quite the same part. The '73-up factory choke modulator adjusts power on the feed side of the choke heater, which has a constant ground. The black box that comes with the choke kit adjusts resistance (in accord with engine temperature) on the ground side of the choke heater, which has a constant feed with ignition on. You can fine-tune the behaviour of the aftermarket electric choke by choosing where to locate the ground modulator. I usually used the rear one of the two threaded holes facing the sky on the cylinder head, just inboard of the manifold mounting plane.
 
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