Cleaning gasket surfaces

[jos51700]

I recently acquired a Neon that has broken a timing belt. I had the head surfaced, and was cleaning the remnants of the coating from the old MLS head gasket off the block. This stuff was like baked on carbon.

I finally resorted to a Scotch Brite pad to get everything clean. I'm concerned about the fibrous junk left behind. I washed the oil drainage ports with brake cleaner and I'll flush the cooling system and change the engine oil before i install the water pump and start it up.

The next time I do this, what are you guys using when you have the block in the car and can't do a full machine shop treatment? I can't imagine anything aggressive enough to remove that junk that wouldn't leave at least a little bit behind to get circulated in a motor.

 

[Bobzilla]

A few years ago someone on this site was recommending carbide tipped gasket scrapers. I bought one to try and it is pretty awesome. The tip is not deteriorating like regular steel or plastic scrapers. That means it stays sharp and allows it to cut through really caked on gaskets and sealers. Just be careful as it can dig in to the base metal you are cleaning if you force it to. Keep a low attack angle and it works very well.

81960 5/8" Carbide Scraper, 8"

 

[junkyardhero]

super scraper brand scraper absolutely demolishes things of this nature.

follow up with a little acetone and maybe a "how's your mother" with a scratch pad if needed.

 

[dadsbee]

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Don’t forget your shop vac. If at all possible I like to run the shop vac hose alongside my scraper to help keep a majority of the debris up off the motor. Also using it to vacuum out the ports/crevices when done. You can use foam ear plugs on the smaller holes and ports, don’t forget to remove them when done. I’m also shoving paper shop towels wherever I can.

 

[jos51700]

A few years ago someone on this site was recommending carbide tipped gasket scrapers. I bout one to try and it is pretty awesome. The tip is not deteriorating like regular steel or plastic scrapers. That means it stays sharp and allows it to cut through really caked on gaskets and sealers. Just be careful as it can dig in to the base metal you are cleaning if you force it to. Keep a low attack angle and it works very well.

81960 5/8" Carbide Scraper, 8"

I have one and can vouch, they work great! The issue was if I pushed hard enough to get everything off, the carbide was sharp enough to scratch the block, and I didn't need that headache

super scraper brand scraper absolutely demolishes things of this nature.

follow up with a little acetone and maybe a "how's your mother" with a scratch pad if needed.

I will look into this! Thank you!

View attachment 1716485647

Never even crossed my admittedly weak mind. Thank you!

 

[toolmanmike]

I recently acquired a Neon that has broken a timing belt. I had the head surfaced, and was cleaning the remnants of the coating from the old MLS head gasket off the block. This stuff was like baked on carbon.

I finally resorted to a Scotch Brite pad to get everything clean. I'm concerned about the fibrous junk left behind. I washed the oil drainage ports with brake cleaner and I'll flush the cooling system and change the engine oil before i install the water pump and start it up.

The next time I do this, what are you guys using when you have the block in the car and can't do a full machine shop treatment? I can't imagine anything aggressive enough to remove that junk that wouldn't leave at least a little bit behind to get circulated in a motor.

Sorry to say this but many years ago GM found that many bottom end engine failures were caused by 3M Scotchbrite residue from prior warranty repairs like resealing intakes or head gaskets. If you are using anything in a rotary tool, use a Bristle disc. They have plastic fingers that don't produce harmful grit. They come in different diameters and grits. Scrape the most of the gasket with a razor blade scraper.

 

[Bobzilla]

Sorry to say this but many years ago GM found that many bottom end engine failures were caused by 3M Scotchbrite residue from prior warranty repairs like resealing intakes or head gaskets. If you are using anything in a rotary tool, use a Bristle disc. They have plastic fingers that don't produce harmful grit. They come in different diameters and grits. Scrape the most of the gasket with a razor blade scraper.


View attachment 1716485698

I use these discs too. Love them. Last a good while too. I thought I remember them having steel bristles inside those plastic bristles but I have not paid attention to it in a while.

 

[jos51700]

Sorry to say this but many years ago GM found that many bottom end engine failures were caused by 3M Scotchbrite residue from prior warranty repairs like resealing intakes or head gaskets. If you are using anything in a rotary tool, use a Bristle disc. They have plastic fingers that don't produce harmful grit. They come in different diameters and grits. Scrape the most of the gasket with a razor blade scraper.


View attachment 1716485698

Now you tell me. Since I haven't turned the motor over, I was going to flush the cooling system with running water while I have the water pump off and dump a gallon of diesel down the head oil drains with the drain plug out. I can't see how much of that could make it to the mains with the oil filter in place....

 

[RustyRatRod]

A razor blade scraper works well.

 

[Bodyperson]

I recently acquired a Neon that has broken a timing belt. I had the head surfaced, and was cleaning the remnants of the coating from the old MLS head gasket off the block. This stuff was like baked on carbon.

I finally resorted to a Scotch Brite pad to get everything clean. I'm concerned about the fibrous junk left behind. I washed the oil drainage ports with brake cleaner and I'll flush the cooling system and change the engine oil before i install the water pump and start it up.

The next time I do this, what are you guys using when you have the block in the car and can't do a full machine shop treatment? I can't imagine anything aggressive enough to remove that junk that wouldn't leave at least a little bit behind to get circulated in a motor.

I think you did all you can do. I would change the oil and filter again sooner than later.