cleaning nuts, bolts, etc.

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pyrojim

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So, with the basket case I bought, there is about 40# of nuts, bolts, fasteners etc. I would like to use as much of the original as possible but it's pretty cruddy. Anyone have a good way to mass clean? I was thinking rock tumbler or a brass tumbler for a reloader??? Any input or thoughts is appreciated.
Jim
 
I use a wire brush on a bench grinder and it works really bell for cleaning. Just be carefull not to get your fingers in there as it hurts like hell!
 
I'm a wire wheel guy too. Of course, I'm only doing a handful at a time, not 40 lbs worth! Would the hot tank at the local machine shop be any good? Just a thought.
 
I use a wire brush on a bench grinder and it works really bell for cleaning. Just be carefull not to get your fingers in there as it hurts like hell!

This is what I did, takes more time but that's all is costs you! My dad soaks rusty and dirty bolts on vinegar, it works great, also removes rust and is cheap!
 
My dad passed away a few years ago. He was an avid fisherman (I'm not). He left a lot of fishing stuff that I had to go through. What I found most useful was a "minnow bucket" which is a little container made of fine screen with a handle. I use the bucket to place my nuts and bolts in and sandblast them! It works really well. If you shake the bucket and blast again, it is relatively easy to get the whole bolt really clean.

If you take the sandblasted bolts and THEN hit them with the wire-wheel they really look good! BTW, place the nuts that you are going to wire-wheel on a screwdriver shank. You can do a lot of them at once and it's easier to hold them.
 
This is what I did, takes more time but that's all is costs you! My dad soaks rusty and dirty bolts on vinegar, it works great, also removes rust and is cheap!

X2.....................

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHKxJTxyzP8"]HOW TO remove rust with vinegar - YouTube[/ame]
 
Vinegar, lemon juice and salt. Works great and MUCH less expensive than evapo-rust and most other marketed stuff and last a LONG time.
 
First degrease:

soak them in a 5 gallon bucket of pinesol for a week in a basket which is suspended off the bottom about 2 inches as all the crud will be at the bottom. Shaking it all up or put the bucket on the washing machine so it vibrates and shimmys alot.
You can reuse this degreasing mix like 20 times.

Or get a couple gallons of concentrated degreaser from Lowes and use that for taking off tar, undercoat and paint (submerge for a week or two).

Then pull all the parts out and wash them with water. Repeat degrease soak if needed but its unlikely.

Once the parts are totally grease free and rinced, submerge them in a 5 gallon bucket of a 3 gallons of OSPHO and 1 gallon of water. You can reuse this "vat" for a super long time too.

They will rust free between 10 minutes and over night depending on how thick the rust is.

Rince and either tumble or you can blacken them or paint them.

You can get a large vibratory tumbler from harbor freight for a good price (not easwood cause theirs is wayyyy overpriced for what it is) and tumble them.

When you pull them out, rinse with laquer thinner and paint or coat with oil immediately as they will likely flash rust quickly if left bare.

Keep parts submerged under antifreeze after the ospho if you dont want them to flash rust prior to coating

Parts in pics were either super thick rusty and or caked with layers of oil and years of crud.

Overall they all looked like rusty goopy hell and I soaked in pine sol, rinsed, soaked in OSPHO. The little grinder reamer things, I tested in the rain for 1 month during winter.

The general parts in the last picture were sitting in a plastic bucket full of tree leaves, grease and rust and water for 10 years so I tested the process on them too. Some pieces were caked with piles of rust and some looked like they were covered in tar. After the process, I let them sit in a bucket of used antifreeze for a couple months and they slowly got light surface corrosion.

Like said in other posts, nothing beats manual labor of wire wheels and sand blasters but wire wheels will not get in half the crevices and sand blasting off grease and heavy rust is very time consuming, messy and ruins your blasting media in your cabinet super fast.

I wanted to have a system that would prep the parts for sand blasting so it would be really quick and not so messy to blast for the last step: Caswell electroless nickel plating.

Recycle waste products according to local regulations.
 

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Additionally, it looks like you have a large shop and maybe extra room, so:

I have in the past put a large quantity of bolts and nuts in my shop washing machine with 3 scoops of detergent and a load of shop towels and they came out cleaner than the bottom pic of parts, and they were just a mess when they went in. If you have an old washing machine and you run small parts thru it, you can get them quite "tumbled" and totally free of grease and most rust in about 30 minutes. Also, this goes with out saying but I will share any way: large parts get beat up and stall out your washer which leads to a burnt drive belt. :)
 
My usual approach is a little less "industrial strength" than old Rice Nuker's, but it seems to work fairly well: soak the parts overnight in mineral spirits to degrease; rinse and dry. Then soak in phosphoric acid (aka Dupont "MetalPrep") for a couple of hours or until the rust is gone; rinse and dry. The phosphoric acid puts a dark coating on them that resists rust. I don't know how this compares/contrasts with Ospho, which I have never used.
 
sand blasting off grease and heavy rust is very time consuming, messy and ruins your blasting media in your cabinet super fast.

I use the Harbor Freight PRESSURIZED sandblaster outside (not in a cabinet). It shoots sand at 90-100 PSI. A two gallon minnow bucket full of bolts can be stripped to silver bare metal in less than five minutes.
 
My 2 cents on the subject is soak everything clean in Super Clean, then use Evaporust to remove all the rust.
You will be pleased with how well these products work.
 

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Harbor freight sells a small cement mixer for 150. Trim the paddles down to super short or remove them (looks like a couple bolts) and install a couple strips of 1/4" angle iron for moderated rotating - tumbling effect and chuck your stuff in there with a couple scoops of laundry detergent and fill with water. They will be clean as heck in a few hours and no harsh chemicals. Add sand to enhance cleaning in crevices.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-quarter-cubic-ft-compact-cement-mixer-91907.html

Here is my thread on a tumbler I got from eastwood and my tribulations in trying to get bolts and nuts clean. Waste of money and time. I gave up on it because it took several days to make progress on a hand full of small parts so it was sadly anemic for getting goop, paint and rust off. Also, threads were generally not cleaned out well.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=138012
 
So, the jury is in. I like the super clean and metal rescue. Soak them for a couple days in super clean, rinse well. Soak them for a day in metal rescue, rinse well. Let dry and spray with WD40. Works well.
 

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