Clutch fork won't clip back in.

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1967formulaS

1967formulaS

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Hi guys,
I have just installed my new clutch and 4 speed.
I'm trying to put my clutch fork back in , so I slide the T/O bearing towards the clutch but I can't get the fork in either the spring clips on the T/O bearing or the locating tab on the bellhousing ??
Do I need to unbolt and move the box back off the bellhousing . I'll try get some pics up.
 
May be wrong if I am not following your question, but no need to move box back, just lift spring clips back enough with fork ends so as to have fork end pinched between throwout spring clips and throwout bearing main fork thrust body surface. Here are a couple of front and back pics of it installed correctly. The fork will be allowed to slide into the locating tab on the bell housing when it moved further forward in-between the clips on the T/O bearing, somewhat of a simultaneous insert.
 

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Hi guys, thanks for the reply. I tried opening the clips up and slide the clutch fork in but it seems I don't have enough clearance. I'm thinking I might lever the T/O bearing off the bottom of the bellhousing towards the clutchso it depresses the clutch Springs a little, and I might be able to get it that way.
 
I had the same problem on a buddies car when the fork bent while driving one day, and it would no longer disengage the clutch. I widened the access hole in the bellhousing with a carbide bit until I was able to get the new fork in enough for it to snap in place.

All you parts look dry. I always use a very thin film of Synthetic Disc Brake grease on the fulcrum pivot, the two pads that contact the throwout bearing and on the inner sleeve the throwout bearing slides on. I use just enough to get the job done. If you use too much, it will attract dirt and could possibly get on the clutch itself.

I also lube all the contact points on the clutch linkage after I blue print the linkage. I've never seen a linkage that did not need some massaging to get all the contact surfaces lined up to reduce misalignment of the linkages.
 
Well that didn't work, couldn't get any more room by levering the bearing against the clutch. Looks like I'll have to unbolt the gearbox and lever it back a bit.
 

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Is it normal to have no play in there? The fork is hard up against the bell and the bearing is hard up against the clutch.... My car is a factory 383 - 4 speed car, I'm using the same bellhousing and fork and flywheel, but it now got a 440 and a 18 spline gearbox and a ram clutches Borg and beck style clutch.
 
You should have clearance in there. Is the disc in correctly?
If it can help.
From MP finger height check..................
 

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1967formulaS said:
Well that didn't work, couldn't get any more room by levering the bearing against the clutch. Looks like I'll have to unbolt the gearbox and lever it back a bit.
Click to expand...

You might need to unbolt the bell housing too, and refit the trans after the throw out bearing is connected to the fork and bell housing being carefull not to knock it free.
 
hi, you will have to remove trans. then put fork on bearing. then install trans. I've always , had fork and bearing hooked up, before installing trans. makes it way easier! I notice, front bearing retainer looks different. is a custom style? doesn't look original. also, looks like bearing can't go back enough.
 
Thanks everyone, I will pull the trans and have a closer look at what's going on and follow the above replies .
I have the old t/o bearing so I'll check if there is any length difference, I have a feeling the new one is a bit bigger.
Will post my findings.
Thanks.
 
I think I may have put the disc in the wrong way.
If I flip it over I might have that extra little bit of clearance I need.
On the disc picture, there is the letter F on the disc material, I'm guessing that means flywheel side??
 
Flatter face to flywheel. Picture looks right to me.

Picture is flywheel side.......
 

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Ok, so I've measured my old original T/O bearing against the new one and they are the same both in overall length and between where the fork clips on and to the roller bearing surface where it meets the fingers in the clutch.
So I've ruled this out as a cause. The bolts area all tight on the bell, box and clutch assembly.the gearbox is brand new 18 spline from brewers.
This leave me with finger height. If I can decrease the finger height, I think it will fit but I've never done that before . I can see 3 bolts that fix the fingers on but I'm guessing this should be done with the box out and the clutch disc, flywheel and pressure plate bolted together? ?
 
I just use a ground .310" plate bolted between the flywheel and clutch cover. A 1-2" depth mic is what I measured with. The three eyebolts on the cover make the adjustment. They are likely "staked" to prevent backing off in use. You'll need to "re-stake" if you adjust them. I found my new cover was out over .050" on one finger.
That said, I can't imagine the lack of clearance unless your new cover is deeper than the original. Have you checked that?

I see two different length release bearing on Brewer's for the 18 spline....................

http://brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=31
 
those cover bolts are not adjustable!! there are shims under them, that's how you adjust finger heights. unit has to be bolted together on bench to do this.
 
perfacar said:
those cover bolts are not adjustable!! there are shims under them, that's how you adjust finger heights. unit has to be bolted together on bench to do this.
Click to expand...

Help me out here then. Why would you need to use shims with a threaded sleeve nut?
 

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Is everything all original or pieced together?
There are different lengths on the angle piece the clutch fork goes into.
 
Hi guys, just a quick update.
I ended up taking a couple of millimetres off the top of the clutch fork bracket and it now fits great with enough travel. Thanks for all your suggestions and input.
 

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Got the z bar in without any major issues.
Just trying to find out how much clearance is required between the face of the throwout bearing and the fingers on the clutch.
Can't seem to find it in my manual.
 
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