Clutch issue

[RAT ROD AL]

Have you checked the linkage for for abnormal motion? Worn torque shaft bushings, frame and bell studs, bent or worn fork pivot, or combinations of those can cause this scenario. It helps to have an assistant work the pedal travel while one watches for the motion. It should be tight throughout. Also look at the engine and trans mounts while your there.

None of the parts look worn. This is the clutch kit I bought from Rockauto
More Information for PERFECTION CLUTCH MU16471
The throw out bearing had the plastic sleeve and it wouldn't stay on the fork when I push on the pedal. It was sloppy on the tranny snout . I swapped it with a used one I had laying around that fit better.
This 4spd setup was untested to me as I got it in a package deal basket case cuda project.

 

[clifftt]

I am with Dave ... Re-read his posts #19 & #23. I had this same problem until a call to Brewers helped me understand how the over center spring works.

Think of it this way: When you release the clutch pedal, the pressure plate fingers begin to “throw” the shift fork (and clutch pedal with it) back. However, it cannot throw the fork back all the way.

This is where the over center spring takes over to assist the clutch pedal back the rest of the way.
Remember what Dave said in post #19?

“FWIW, The OC spring works in BOTH directions on my Barracuda. When everything with respect to pedal/clutch linkage is tight and adjusted correctly the B&B style 3 fingers push the the fork and linkage back to just past center on the OC spring. The spring then lifts the pedal to the stop and pulls any load off the release bearing. The linkage spring keeps the parts from flopping around.
In the other direction, the OC spring assists the release of plate pressure on the disc. ”

Start with a relaxed clearance of .060” and fine tune it from there.

 

[yellow rose]

I'm not sure that an OC spring works in both directions. It's only there to help reduce pedal effort. That's it.

If the pedal won't come back, remove the OC spring. And it doesn't matter what kind of levers the plate has. It has to do with plate pressure.

 

[Daves69]

..This 4spd setup was untested to me as I got it in a package deal basket case cuda project.

If everything in the linkage is tight, the PP is correct and the finger height is set correctly you may have mismatched components. Possibly the wrong fork or a short pivot.
Seems a lot of people have problems with these 3 finger PPs made these days.

I'm not sure that an OC spring works in both directions.

I believe it's the only thing that holds the pedal up to the stop in a stock application. Without linkage attached the pedal will be either on the floor or up to the stop.

 

[Daves69]

FWIW, For stock replacement parts one shouldn't really need to check a plate setting.
A new MP plate I bought was shorter .050" on one finger height. I had a .310" plate made way back to simulate the disc as installed and use a depth mic to check heights. Probably could use several pieces of .312" key stock to do the same.

 

[Daves69]

Al, moving that fork pivot forward via a spacer may be all you need to "make" what you have work. Not right but I'll admit I've done it with my scatter shield.

 

[RAT ROD AL]

Al, moving that fork pivot forward via a spacer may be all you need to "make" what you have work. Not right but I'll admit I've done it with my scatter shield.

Next time I get it jacked up I will check mine to see if that's possible. I'm not 100 percent sure the used throw out bearing is correct . I'm sure that I would have checked it before I installed it.