Coach Controls Wiring Harness?

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How are folks going to use the day time running lights feature? I'd prefer to use the parking lights and side-marker lights for my DTRLs, but it's not clear to me how that would work.

Travis
 
Looking good. I ended up with some other focuses for a while, so still have not ordered a wiring harness yet. I'll keep an eye to this.
 
74SwingerSpe said:
Thanks for the updates and great pics, Jlcaptain24. I'm months away from installing mine, but I hope to learn from your install.

Thanks,
Travis
Click to expand...
You bet. My biggest hurdle was coming up with a solution for going from mopar to GM plug. It's actually not that big of a deal, once I spent some time mapping out all the wires coming from the column and figuring out what they do. I just won't use the GM plug...I'll tie the harness into the mopar female plug. Problem solved. As a whole, it seems complicated...but broken down, each task isn't all that difficult. The built in relays make this thing easy. My next hurdle is figuring out the wiper wiring....I bought ron francis wiper switch.
 
74SwingerSpe said:
How are folks going to use the day time running lights feature? I'd prefer to use the parking lights and side-marker lights for my DTRLs, but it's not clear to me how that would work.

Travis
Click to expand...
On the fuse/control box there's a terminal for low beams....and a separate one for low beams/driving lights. I'm not going to use driving lights, so I just hooked up the low beams terminal. On the right side, top wire hooked up (yellow wrap, brown wire) is hooked to the low beam. Next available terminal above it is the driving lights one.

But to answer your question...not sure how'd you hood the maker/tail lights up s driving lights. I'm sure the coach controls folks would know. They're been very responsive thus far.
 
Hey Travis. Wiring is 90% done. Build is coming from all directions at once at this point...so routing wires and looming as things get installed. Basic plan is in place though and things are pretty much routed to where they need to go. Biggest hurdle I've over come is integrating the ron Francis headlight switch and figuring out the wiper motor wiring (3 speed/stock switch). Integrating the mopar column harness required me to divert a bit from the wiring diagram they provided, but not much. Same with the headlight switch. As you can see, I also used a digital cluster, which required my already taxed mental reserves. The fuse box is sort of a mess right now....as much as I tried to keep it straight. I'll tidy it up once it's all functional. So NOT looking forward to that.

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Wow, great progress Jlcaptain24! Thanks for the pics. I was very interested to see where you mounted the control center. Do you have the factory "fresh air" boxes? I don't see it in the picture. The dash is cool.

Travis
 
Thanks Travis. I no longer have those fresh air boxes. I'm running a Classic Auto A/C system, which uses only recirc air....so I shaved my cowl vent. All sealed up...no more leaves and rust.

I debated where to put the control center. Even considering glove box, trunk, etc. In the end, the original spot made the most sense. I can't recall how far down those air boxes extend...it may be an issue for you. Also and FYI...that control center has a bright blue LED on it when power is applied. Not sure if it will extinguish to indicate a blow fuse or something...who knows.

Let me know when if you have any questions when the rubber meets the road. I can give you then gouge on some of the mopar wiring.
Jason
 
I'll check to see if the parking lights turn off with the ignition too. That'd solve your driving lights issue...of course your gauges will have power to the lights if that matters to you. But it should work. Just leave the headlight switch in the park position.
 
Looks like a nice piece. Still on the fence about the soldered in relays though. I get it it has a lifetime warranty. If you lose a relay sounds like the car will be non op until new board arrives?
 
That does sound silly to me to solder in relays when it's something that could so easily be replaced if one should go bad. I've been slowly rewiring mine as well.
 
iw378 said:
Looks like a nice piece. Still on the fence about the soldered in relays though. I get it it has a lifetime warranty. If you lose a relay sounds like the car will be non op until new board arrives?
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I was initially concerned about the relay thing and guess how may relay failures they're had?? Zero. Zip. Zilch. Nada. Maybe they relays better than they used to??? I dunno. But I'm a fan of their product and in particular their tech support. Very helpful over the phone
 
Hi Jlcaptain24,
Unfortunately, we're probably still months away from starting our wiring project, but I have been doing some pre-planning. A question that occurred to me was whether the mopar starter relay was even needed anymore, given the Coach Controls kit has the neutral safety input in the control box? Did you use the starter relay in your installation?

Thanks,
Travis
 
74SwingerSpe said:
Hi Jlcaptain24,
Unfortunately, we're probably still months away from starting our wiring project, but I have been doing some pre-planning. A question that occurred to me was whether the mopar starter relay was even needed anymore, given the Coach Controls kit has the neutral safety input in the control box? Did you use the starter relay in your installation?

Thanks,
Travis
Click to expand...
Hey Travis,

For Neutral Safety, I used the switch built into my ratchet Shifter. Really, it's just wired inline with the "start switch" signal. If it's open...nothing. If it's closes...signal goes through. Not really a component of the coach controls board per se'. As a general statement...I didn't use ANYTHING that was part of the original wiring harness. Nothing about my car is factory...cluster, climate controls, wiper switch, headlight switch....etc. Only thing original is the wiring coming from the column....turn signals, brakes, ignition. Once you order the kit, it comes with a HUGE laminated color schematic that's invaluable. It includes a "power center output activation table" that tells you which outputs are activated and when. Sounds intuitive.....but it was very helpful.
 
Jlcaptain24 said:
Hey Travis,

For Neutral Safety, I used the switch built into my ratchet Shifter. Really, it's just wired inline with the "start switch" signal. If it's open...nothing. If it's closes...signal goes through. Not really a component of the coach controls board per se'. As a general statement...I didn't use ANYTHING that was part of the original wiring harness. Nothing about my car is factory...cluster, climate controls, wiper switch, headlight switch....etc. Only thing original is the wiring coming from the column....turn signals, brakes, ignition. Once you order the kit, it comes with a HUGE laminated color schematic that's invaluable. It includes a "power center output activation table" that tells you which outputs are activated and when. Sounds intuitive.....but it was very helpful.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I have the kit and looking at the laminated wiring diagram is what led me to my question. If I remember what I saw correctly (??), as part of the inputs into the control box, there is a neutral safety switch input. I believe that is the trigger for a relay built into the control box for the starter. I was just curious if you used that, or wired in the stock starter relay. Seems like you didn't use the control box inputs or outputs or the stock relay for your starter.

Travis
 
74SwingerSpe said:
Thanks for the response. I have the kit and looking at the laminated wiring diagram is what led me to my question. If I remember what I saw correctly (??), as part of the inputs into the control box, there is a neutral safety switch input. I believe that is the trigger for a relay built into the control box for the starter. I was just curious if you used that, or wired in the stock starter relay. Seems like you didn't use the control box inputs or outputs or the stock relay for your starter.

Travis
Click to expand...
I didn't use the stock relay. I did use the control box inputs though....(the little micro plug w/8 wires). The Neutral switch is just in series coming out of the start switch from the ignition. Basically, i used the switch on my shifter in leu of the one on the transmission.
 
Rudy`s Ride said:
I have also been stewing over rewiring my 70 Duster. I like the idea of the relays being there all on the fuse panel but still think they should be close to what ever they are controlling. I`m going to go with the EZ wire 21 harness and then get hold of crackedback for some relay kits that he has. Not sure if relays will be needed for headlights and such after rewire.
Click to expand...
I used an EZ wiring kit off ebay, 12 circuit if I remember right. "all" plug in connections have to be changed to mopar. didn`t need relays for the headlights because of the better sized wire, and they work great. so far so good, even looked pretty good under the dash, till I added fuel inj, and started changing my mind on stuff,pretty busy now. but seems to be ok. Sean at EZ is an elec. genius if he`s still there.
 
Please correct me if I am wrong...does the Coach Control offer just a "fuse box" of sorts? Another words, just a fuse panel....no attached wires. My Internet is beyond slow today so looking at Web sites is not going to happen today.
 
inkjunkie said:
Please correct me if I am wrong...does the Coach Control offer just a "fuse box" of sorts? Another words, just a fuse panel....no attached wires. My Internet is beyond slow today so looking at Web sites is not going to happen today.
Click to expand...

Hi inkjunkie,
Coach Controls offers multiple kits (18, 23 circuit, and more) that come with the control box (Fuse box plus relays all built-in), as well as the wires (both long and normal versions) as well as connectors. I got the Coach Controls 23 kit. It comes with the following.

The complete Universal Kit ... what’s included:


• 100A Power Center, 23 circuits, 18 fuses, 9 relays
• Over 700 feet of GXL wire, labeled and color coded
• Two 100A LMI fuses and fuse holders, one protects the Power Center, the other protects the Battery and Alternator
• NO FUSIBLE LINKS
• Large 17x22, Double-Sided, Laminated, Color Wiring Diagram
• Steering Column connector kit
• Radiator Fan connector kit
• Headlamp connector kit
• GM "SI" Alternator kit, also compatible with 1-wire alternators
• Instrument Panel Gauge connector kit
• Air Conditioner Clutch connector kit
• Wire ties, 8" and 4", and heatshrink tubing

They also have base kits that are really only the control box and wires to connect to the alternator and battery as well as the two 100A LMI fuses and fuse holders, one protects the Power Center, the other protects the Battery and Alternator. The rest of the wires and connectors are up to you.

Travis
 
74SwingerSpe said:
Hi inkjunkie,
Coach Controls offers multiple kits (18, 23 circuit, and more) that come with the control box (Fuse box plus relays all built-in), as well as the wires (both long and normal versions) as well as connectors. I got the Coach Controls 23 kit. It comes with the following.

The complete Universal Kit ... what’s included:


• 100A Power Center, 23 circuits, 18 fuses, 9 relays
• Over 700 feet of GXL wire, labeled and color coded
• Two 100A LMI fuses and fuse holders, one protects the Power Center, the other protects the Battery and Alternator
• NO FUSIBLE LINKS
• Large 17x22, Double-Sided, Laminated, Color Wiring Diagram
• Steering Column connector kit
• Radiator Fan connector kit
• Headlamp connector kit
• GM "SI" Alternator kit, also compatible with 1-wire alternators
• Instrument Panel Gauge connector kit
• Air Conditioner Clutch connector kit
• Wire ties, 8" and 4", and heatshrink tubing

They also have base kits that are really only the control box and wires to connect to the alternator and battery as well as the two 100A LMI fuses and fuse holders, one protects the Power Center, the other protects the Battery and Alternator. The rest of the wires and connectors are up to you.

Travis
Click to expand...
Travis Nailed it.
 
I've been working on my Duster off and on the last year or so and I'm far away still from wiring the car. I have been looking at harnesses lately and seen this kit featured in hotrod.com a few months back. Glad someone is having good success with it. This is probably the kit I'll use as well. Straight forward and simple. Thanks for the thread.
 
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