Cone VS Clutch?

Which is better Cone or Clutch for the street?

  • Cone type

    Votes: 18 15.4%

  • Clutch type

    Votes: 99 84.6%
  • Total voters
    117
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I run 742 cases and clutch style SG's in all my cars! The best combination IMO! Geof
 
Captainkirk said:
It was only resting. And it needed to be awakened.:D
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did you figure out whatcha got in your cases?


and to add a little closure to my end of this thread, I no longer have the car in mention, nor do I have any clue where it is as it has changed hands quite a few times since I traded for my truck. The truck is gonna get a cone type because its just gonna be a work truck/daily driver, but it still needs to do a few of these :burnout:
 
PanGasket said:
did you figure out whatcha got in your cases?
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No, sounds like I'll have to open the pumpkin up to ID it. I'll get to it shortly, but not yet. From everything I've read it sounds like they are most likely cones in both.
 
If you already have a cone unit and you search out a clutch unit for a street car, you're wasting your money, IMO. The cone units CAN be refurbished. I've done several. As long as everything looks good, all you have to do is chuck the cones up in a brake lathe and remove about .100" from the small end. When they wear, the small ends of the cones come in contact with the outsides of the case and they no longer grip the case. If you remove material from the small ends, this restores the grip that was lost. You need to add an equal amount of shims between the side gears and the cones, though. Although this repair is not covered in any book, it works well and will not cause any problems as long as the rest of the unit is in good shape.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you already have a cone unit and you search out a clutch unit for a street car, you're wasting your money, IMO. The cone units CAN be refurbished. I've done several. As long as everything looks good, all you have to do is chuck the cones up in a brake lathe and remove about .100" from the small end. When they wear, the small ends of the cones come in contact with the outsides of the case and they no longer grip the case. If you remove material from the small ends, this restores the grip that was lost. You need to add an equal amount of shims between the side gears and the cones, though. Although this repair is not covered in any book, it works well and will not cause any problems as long as the rest of the unit is in good shape.
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Yup, agree 100%. When the cone bottoms out in the case the cone can no longer grip the sides. Think of it like putting a drinking glass inside another one. When the top glass slides into the bottom one it creates friction. same applies to a cone SG. Now if the top glass is allowed to slide all the way to the bottom, it no longer can "grip" the sides of the bottom glass. By cutting the bottom off the cone you are allowing it to slide farther down there by gripping the sides. At this point you add a shim between the cone and the axle side gear to restore the spring pressure on the cone. I usually cut the cones .080 and add .060 -.080 shim.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Yup, agree 100%. When the cone bottoms out in the case the cone can no longer grip the sides. Think of it like putting a drinking glass inside another one. When the top glass slides into the bottom one it creates friction. same applies to a cone SG. Now if the top glass is allowed to slide all the way to the bottom, it no longer can "grip" the sides of the bottom glass. By cutting the bottom off the cone you are allowing it to slide farther down there by gripping the sides. At this point you add a shim between the cone and the axle side gear to restore the spring pressure on the cone. I usually cut the cones .080 and add .060 -.080 shim.
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Puzackly. Works good, don't it? Done quite a few like that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you already have a cone unit and you search out a clutch unit for a street car, you're wasting your money, IMO. The cone units CAN be refurbished. I've done several. As long as everything looks good, all you have to do is chuck the cones up in a brake lathe and remove about .100" from the small end. When they wear, the small ends of the cones come in contact with the outsides of the case and they no longer grip the case. If you remove material from the small ends, this restores the grip that was lost. You need to add an equal amount of shims between the side gears and the cones, though. Although this repair is not covered in any book, it works well and will not cause any problems as long as the rest of the unit is in good shape.
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Rusty, I don't know that there is anything wrong with either pumpkin, except the 3.55 has 100k on it and the 3.91 has 54k...plus was in an accident. I was gonna dial out the axle flanges and check for a bent axle.
 
you can pull the fill plug,shine a tiny mag light in there and finger out what kind of sure grip you have or pull one axle...center pin is way different in cone and clutch...i vote clutch...they do better donuts.


btw the 489 cone 3.23 in my 71 road runner has over 100 thousand miles on it and will still lay 2 wide black marks 30 to 40 feet long....just dont try to do a donut.

my69 swinger had a cone that was tight and it was a 4 speed...it would do a donut no problem but you had to get the rpms up and dump tha clutch.
 
mikebee said:
you can pull the fill plug,shine a tiny mag light in there and finger out what kind of sure grip you have or pull one axel...center pin is way different in cone and clutch...i vote clutch...they do better donuts.
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Good to know! I'll try it!
 
CUDA69 said:
I have seven years, 25,000 miles and hundreds of passes on my Auburn cone LSD in a lowly 741 case. It's holding up on a 3700 pound car with drag radials and a 100 HP squirt. Granted its only seeing 430 HP on a 12 second car but it works for this application.
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I am happy to hear you say that. Even though my Signet weighs in at around 2500 pounds, the cone I have in it has been through every small block engine Mopar has offered right up to two roller 340's I have had in it in the past 25 years... Where did we go wrong?
 
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