connecting distributor advance to intake

[Tof]

Hi all ,

excuse me for the disturb but i want your help for connecting the capsule advance on my distributor , its is on my intake ok but where and how ?

Cordialy , tof (excuse its my first small block )

 

[memike]

Good morning from Arkansas and welcome to this great site Tof :coffee2:
There will be a place on your carburetor for you Vacuum advance to hook up to :thumbup:
What carburetor are you running ?

 

[RedFish]

The spark advance doesn't connect to constant manifold vacuum. It gets a changing signal from venturi vacuum port on the carborater.

 

[360duster]

Hi Tof,

this port must be hooked up to a port at the carb that does not always show full engine vacuum. Sometimes it´s called "timed vacuum", take a look into your carbs manual if you have.

The port you are showing is for cooling water only, has got nothing to do with ignition timing. But you can try it, maybe it works for you . If it makes you faster please let me know....

greetings from germany

Michael

 

[slantsixdan]

The spark advance doesn't connect to constant manifold vacuum. It gets a changing signal from venturi vacuum port on the carborater.

Almost, but not quite. The venturi vacuum port is used to trigger the EGR system -- and that's all it's used for. The distributor vacuum advance port is much lower than the venturi; it's placed in the close vicinity of the upper edge of the throttle plate. Exactly where it's placed depends on the specific carburetor calibration with respect to the engine, transmission, emissions package, and other factors about the vehicle the carburetor was originally intended for. But yes, connecting the vacuum advance directly to manifold vacuum usually does not work as well as connecting it to the carburetor's spark advance port. If you're not sure which port is the right one, consult a manual for the particular kind of carburetor you have -- or ask on here with details of your carburetor and someone will help.

 

[Tof]

Thanks for all ,

effectively i do connect this at the carb' but on my carb (Holley 2210/2245 2 bbl R7871a ) the left and rigt hole are used for the pull off choke and the idle speed ....

 

[66plyValiant]

Thanks for all ,

effectively i do connect this at the carb' but on my carb (Holley 2210/2245 2 bbl R7871a ) the left and rigt hole are used for the pull off choke and the idle speed ....

hello,

there should be a vacuum port on the front near the bottom for your distributor, if your carburator is meant for it

 

[Mr Hemi]

The source you want to connect to is the 90 degree fitting on the right side of your picture. Remember the vacuum advance is for economy only, not power. The source is call ported vacuum. I wouldn't bother connecting the front vacuum pod as it's for emissions and can be removed.

 

[skykeith]

Connect a vacuum gauge to the port. If the vacuum increases as the engine revs up, that's the port you want.

 

[slantsixdan]

Actually, what you're looking for is the port that has no vacuum at hot (slow) idle, and starts pulling vacuum just above idle. Here are port-identification photos for the Holley 2210 (top) and 2245 (bottom) carbs. This should get you headed in the right direction for connecting all the right hoses to all the right ports. Do not randomly disable or disconnect vacuum pots or other parts. The vacuum pot that's not the choke pull off is an idle speed stabilizer. It works for you, not against you, and makes the car less likely to stall when the A/C is turned on or the (power) steering wheel hits the stop or another transient condition slows down the idle speed. Leave it hooked up correctly.

 

[memike]

Actually, what you're looking for is the port that has no vacuum at hot (slow) idle, and starts pulling vacuum just above idle. Here are port-identification photos for the Holley 2210 (top) and 2245 (bottom) carbs. This should get you headed in the right direction for connecting all the right hoses to all the right ports. Do not randomly disable or disconnect vacuum pots or other parts. The vacuum pot that's not the choke pull off is an idle speed stabilizer. It works for you, not against you, and makes the car less likely to stall when the A/C is turned on or the (power) steering wheel hits the stop or another transient condition slows down the idle speed. Leave it hooked up correctly.

Dang Dan :glasses2: very cool and all the info needed :thumrigh:
Dan strikes again :thumrigh:

 

[ef8340]

dan the man!!

 

[Tof]

Yesssss !

Realy thanks for your help , your technical level is high and response at my questions !

Hmmm the "pcv valves" do have realy a interne valves or i can use a hose at 90° in copper ?

Cordialy , Tof

 

[slantsixdan]

Oui, le soupape PCV est vraiment un soupape calibré. Il *ne* faut *pas* mettre un tuyau vide au lieu du soupape; il *faut* avoir le soupape juste. Ben - le style d'origine, fait tout en metal, n'est plus disponible, mais ça ne fait rien; tout simplement acheter un soupape PCV specifié pour moteurs Chrysler d'année 1970 ou plus recent. C'est p. ex. un Standard V165 ou AC-Delco CV-761C, ou Chrysler p/n 5175 351AA. Il faut probablement aussi remplacer le «beignet» en caoutchouc, ce qui est probablement bien cuit, durci par chauffage du moteur. Standard No. GV1 ou Chrysler p/n 3751 510.

 

[Tof]

Ahhhh your french is so sexy :love4: ,

Well i ordering at Rockauto one choke pull off and one pcv valves with her grommet .

cordialy , i appreciate you are the Best !

 

[bcuda452]

good Lord Dan is there anything you cant do? Pic's, French, holy crap! You are my idol!



Doug

 

[66plyValiant]

Oui, le soupape PCV est vraiment un soupape calibré. Il *ne* faut *pas* mettre un tuyau vide au lieu du soupape; il *faut* avoir le soupape juste. Ben - le style d'origine, fait tout en metal, n'est plus disponible, mais ça ne fait rien; tout simplement acheter un soupape PCV specifié pour moteurs Chrysler d'année 1970 ou plus recent. C'est p. ex. un Standard V165 ou AC-Delco CV-761C, ou Chrysler p/n 5175 351AA. Il faut probablement aussi remplacer le «beignet» en caoutchouc, ce qui est probablement bien cuit, durci par chauffage du moteur. Standard No. GV1 ou Chrysler p/n 3751 510.

for those who are french handycaped such as me and can only read a little french, I used a translator

Yes, the PCV valve is truly a calibrated valve. It * does * not * need * to an empty pipe instead of the valve and it * should * have the right valve. Ben - the original style, is all metal, no longer available, but it does not matter, just buy a PCV valve engines Chrysler specified for the year 1970 or newer. It p. ex. a Standard AC-Delco or V165 CV-761C, Chrysler or p / n 5175 351A. It should probably also replace the "donut" rubber, which is probably cooked, cured by heating the engine. Standard No. GV1 or Chrysler p / n 3751 510.

 

[1969dodgedartgt]

welcome to FABO tor, please enjoy your stay
nice to see someone from france, might add yourself to the map if your willing..

 

[plymouth67]

Actually, what you're looking for is the port that has no vacuum at hot (slow) idle, and starts pulling vacuum just above idle. Here are port-identification photos for the Holley 2210 (top) and 2245 (bottom) carbs. This should get you headed in the right direction for connecting all the right hoses to all the right ports. Do not randomly disable or disconnect vacuum pots or other parts. The vacuum pot that's not the choke pull off is an idle speed stabilizer. It works for you, not against you, and makes the car less likely to stall when the A/C is turned on or the (power) steering wheel hits the stop or another transient condition slows down the idle speed. Leave it hooked up correctly.

YA! Whatever he said.

 

[Tof]

well the result is exelent ,

After instal the pcv valves with her "donut" and instal the choke pull off i restart the engine .

The last carburetor setting is do without the pcv and pull off choke and after the restart i must repet a new setting with pcv ans choke pull off , 10/15 minutes after the setting is good and very best , best start at cold , best idle , and not smoke at the exhaust wen i do the crazyman with the throttle :jocolor:!

For the capsule advance on the distributor , i have not some hose on my carb for this and the engine work correctly , i stop the reserch and says the problem finished !

Very thanks for all , Tof

 

[demon seed]

Oui, le soupape PCV est vraiment un soupape calibré. Il *ne* faut *pas* mettre un tuyau vide au lieu du soupape; il *faut* avoir le soupape juste. Ben - le style d'origine, fait tout en metal, n'est plus disponible, mais ça ne fait rien; tout simplement acheter un soupape PCV specifié pour moteurs Chrysler d'année 1970 ou plus recent. C'est p. ex. un Standard V165 ou AC-Delco CV-761C, ou Chrysler p/n 5175 351AA. Il faut probablement aussi remplacer le «beignet» en caoutchouc, ce qui est probablement bien cuit, durci par chauffage du moteur. Standard No. GV1 ou Chrysler p/n 3751 510.

Good lord, Dan if I've every said anything derogatory to you in the past I take it all back. I'm impressed and I don't impress easy.:notworth::notworth: