Control arm hits the frame

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It's the lower LCA bushing as mentioned above.
Mine were touching the frame right there also, till I replaced the bushings with Energy Suspension poly bushings.
Not saying you need poly bushings, only that the bushings are what is causing that.
 
Something else to check: Were the torsion bars removed at any time recently? Possible the bars were installed on wrong sides, left on right/right on left. The hex ends of the bars are clocked (offset) from each other so this could cause the cams to be maladjusted to compensate.
 
rapom65 said:
Something else to check: Were the torsion bars removed at any time recently? Possible the bars were installed on wrong sides, left on right/right on left. The hex ends of the bars are clocked (offset) from each other so this could cause the cams to be maladjusted to compensate.
Click to expand...

There is only ONE way that the torsion tab can get off center and that is the bushing. (Makes zero difference where the torsion bars are set or adjusted.)

When the control arm is centered by the bushing the tab clears the frame and moves within it's normal range of motion.
When the bushing is bad the centerline of the LCA and the adjuster tab moves closer to the fram rail and hits it.
 

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TrailBeast said:
It's the lower LCA bushing as mentioned above.
Mine were touching the frame right there also, till I replaced the bushings with Energy Suspension poly bushings.
Not saying you need poly bushings, only that the bushings are what is causing that.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the help and drawing!

This is a picture of all new parts which I have installed last year - and the LCA bushing is included:

vbpgimage.php
 
rapom65 said:
Something else to check: Were the torsion bars removed at any time recently? Possible the bars were installed on wrong sides, left on right/right on left. The hex ends of the bars are clocked (offset) from each other so this could cause the cams to be maladjusted to compensate.
Click to expand...

Thank you but that is what I also checked yesterday.
 
Danny83 said:
Thank you for the help and drawing!

This is a picture of all new parts which I have installed last year - and the LCA bushing is included:
Click to expand...

Ok, then it couldn't be off center causing the adjuster to contact the frame and you don't have the problem you posted about with a picture.

Sorry, but I am somewhat of a smartass sometimes.:D

I replaced both of my strut rod bushings last year too, and they were both split in pieces already.
Just sayin.
 
How much clearance is the on the other side?
Is the K frame shifted to one side?
The LCA bushing pin/bolt could be bent.
K frame or frame rail maybe bent.
Good alignment shop can tell you what if anything is bent by the alignment angles.
 
TrailBeast said:
Ok, then it couldn't be off center causing the adjuster to contact the frame and you don't have the problem you posted about with a picture.

Sorry, but I am somewhat of a smartass sometimes.:D

I replaced both of my strut rod bushings last year too, and they were both split in pieces already.
Just sayin.
Click to expand...

Hahaha - you are great! :)

The strut rod bushings have also been replaced (see picture above) ;-)

I nearly was 100% sure that the adjuster tab was not set in the right position. But when I released the tension with the adjuster bolt completely and pulled the torsion bar out it came down all the way and was even with the LCA. My suggestion was that the adjuster tab won't go all it`s way down and is set to high - but it wasn`t.

I really have no clue why the tab keeps hiting the frame :-( And I have also no idea where that noise is coming from when I hit a gully or bumps.

A mate swung the car up and down while I was laying under it but I couldn't see that the tab is scratching or hiting the frame. You also can't hear a noise then. I am sure you'd hear something when the tab hits the frame.
 
william said:
How much clearance is the on the other side?
Is the K frame shifted to one side?
The LCA bushing pin/bolt could be bent.
K frame or frame rail maybe bent.
Good alignment shop can tell you what if anything is bent by the alignment angles.
Click to expand...

The ride height on both sides is exactly the same and also the whole car is completely even.

There is also a huge scratch in the left side of the frame but this one seems to be older because it is already covered with dirt and grease.

But on the right side it is totally blank (looks fresh) and also the noise I can hear when I hit a bump is coming from the right side only.

This is mysterious...

And I forgot to mention that the shock absorbers are new as well :)
 
Danny83 said:
Hahaha - you are great! :)

The strut rod bushings have also been replaced (see picture above) ;-)

I nearly was 100% sure that the adjuster tab was not set in the right position. But when I released the tension with the adjuster bolt completely and pulled the torsion bar out it came down all the way and was even with the LCA. My suggestion was that the adjuster tab won't go all it`s way down and is set to high - but it wasn`t.

I really have no clue why the tab keeps hiting the frame :-( And I have also no idea where that noise is coming from when I hit a gully or bumps.

A mate swung the car up and down while I was laying under it but I couldn't see that the tab is scratching or hiting the frame. You also can't hear a noise then. I am sure you'd hear something when the tab hits the frame.
Click to expand...

Since I just recently was under my own car with all that apart I know exactly what you mean by your descriptions.
Do check the other side as mentioned above, because I was so busy being a smartass I didn't think about the possibility of the K frame being off to one side. (That's possible) (of course as mentioned above, bent or broken control arm pivot pin could do it also)
As far as the noise when you hit a bump, you might chk both ends of the shocks also, as a loose mount or missing grommet can make a hell of a noise when they move.

DOH, just saw your post.

William was asking about side to side movement of the K frame, not ride height.
Chk those big bolts holding the K frame in.
Since you said the mark looked older on the other side, the whole K frame could be shifting side to side.
 
TrailBeast said:
Since I just recently was under my own car with all that apart I know exactly what you mean by your descriptions.
Do check the other side as mentioned above, because I was so busy being a smartass I didn't think about the possibility of the K frame being off to one side. (That's possible) (of course as mentioned above, bent or broken control arm pivot pin could do it also)
As far as the noise when you hit a bump, you might chk both ends of the shocks also, as a loose mount or missing grommet can make a hell of a noise when they move.

DOH, just saw your post.

William was asking about side to side movement of the K frame, not ride height.
Chk those big bolts holding the K frame in.
Since you said the mark looked older on the other side, the whole K frame could be shifting side to side.
Click to expand...

Ahhhhh, ok!

Thank you for your help guys! I will check this out on Saturday or Sunday and hopefully come back with results (positive or negative - we`ll see) ;-)
 
Danny83 said:
@ 67Dart273

It is okay when you are making fun about my thread and descriptions. But when you read my opening post you will see that I wrote that the picture is NOT showing my car. I simply needed it to describe my problem and to show you where the parts are crashing together.

I think it doesn't matter whether the picture is showing my car or not. But I will do the work within the next two weeks and then I'll also take a picture of the scratches in the frame.

Thanks to everyone for helping!
Click to expand...


looks like you've covered all tha bases...
 
green1 said:
nothing in this thread makes any sense. Pull the bar out, and re-clock it correctly.
Click to expand...

Well mate - I wasn`t here to open a thread if it was that easy ;-) And I think I`d have already solved the problem if it made sense.

I am thankful for every tipp and help!
 
What torsion bars are you using? This can happen when you are using either bars that are too small for the weight or bars that are made with the hex's mis-clocked.
 
I have the following question:

Left side (driver side)

When I screw out the adjuster bolt completely, the adjuster tab goes all the way down (it sinks into the LCA). Now when I pull out the torsion bar, the adjuster tab goes up into a middle position. It keeps on standing "between" the LCA and the frame rail. I am not able to re-install the torsion bar now without dragging the adjuster tab down – there is lots of tension on it. The torsion bar does not fit into the hex if I don’t drag the adjuster tab down.

Right side (passenger side)

When I screw out the adjuster bolt completely, the adjuster tab goes all the way down (it sinks into the LCA). When I pull out the torsion bar, the adjuster tab is not moving. It is lasting in the LCA. There is no tension on the tab. I can re-install the torsion bar just by pushing it back into the hex.

Can somebody please explain what`s wrong here and which side is working correctly?

Just to remind you: The noise is coming from the right (passenger) side when I hit a gully/ bump.
 
The tension comes from the LCA bushing. Loosen the LCA nut on the k frame a there should be no tension. It should be tighten at ride height only to avoid damage to the bushing
 
william said:
The tension comes from the LCA bushing. Loosen the LCA nut on the k frame a there should be no tension. It should be tighten at ride height only to avoid damage to the bushing
Click to expand...

Thank you mate! Didn`t think about the nuts. Hopefully the bushings are not damaged yet - they were new :violent1:
 
Danny83 said:
I have the following question:

Left side (driver side)

When I screw out the adjuster bolt completely, the adjuster tab goes all the way down (it sinks into the LCA). Now when I pull out the torsion bar, the adjuster tab goes up into a middle position. It keeps on standing "between" the LCA and the frame rail. I am not able to re-install the torsion bar now without dragging the adjuster tab down – there is lots of tension on it. The torsion bar does not fit into the hex if I don’t drag the adjuster tab down.

Right side (passenger side)

When I screw out the adjuster bolt completely, the adjuster tab goes all the way down (it sinks into the LCA). When I pull out the torsion bar, the adjuster tab is not moving. It is lasting in the LCA. There is no tension on the tab. I can re-install the torsion bar just by pushing it back into the hex.

Can somebody please explain what`s wrong here and which side is working correctly?

Just to remind you: The noise is coming from the right (passenger) side when I hit a gully/ bump.
Click to expand...

william said:
The tension comes from the LCA bushing. Loosen the LCA nut on the k frame a there should be no tension. It should be tighten at ride height only to avoid damage to the bushing
Click to expand...


So this is your problem then:

The bushing in the right lower control arm is junk or the nut is still loose. This will give you enough flex to cause your problem. :cheers:

Good luck!
 
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