Converting a 10 in to a 10.5 in clutch

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hellfish

hellfish

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I'm in the process of switching from a 10 inch to a 10.5 inch clutch and bellhousing because I ran a 10 inch with the 273 bellhousing for years. I found out at the end of 2011 that the 10 inch pressure plate has a cast ring and under heavy load (drag strip TNT) that the cast ring will fracture or crack. I was told that the ring needs to be forged steel and that is why mine cracked. I'm currently running a 340 engine putting out more than 400 horse and have seen past postings of the 10.5 clutch and bellhousing solving all problems. What issues has anybody seen with converting from a 10 inch to a 10.5 inch clutch and larger bellhousing (ie; clearence, modifications, starter location)
 
The only thing that I ran into is header/exhaust clearance. It is tighter. There are ears at the lower bottom on the factory aluminum bell that I had to cut off. Running a mini starter helps with some clearance. Headers are not going to fit with that in the early A unless you run fender well type. Also the tunnel pinch weld will have to be trimmed or as I done it...messaged with a hammer.

Other than those I can remember it's a straight forward swap.

Just make sure you get a bell with the correct input bearing retainer size as your tran.
 
You may need some linkage modification. Seems like I used a B-body fork and the pivot from the 273 bellhousing with a little fabrication for the 273 ball mount to fit on the larger bellhousing. I think I also made some minor modification to the bellcrank(z-bar) so it would line up a bit more linear.
 
Thanks for reminding me Grim.

I made a bracket for the z-bar ball stud on the bell to line up with the fender side stud. I used the 75 a-body fork and made up a shorter rod from the z bar with a steel cone instead of the factory rubber piece. I had a solid steel Z-bar made up (before repros) so that aspect may vary from mine and grim's.

It's been '96 since i converted it, slept a few since then.
 
As said the bottom ears interfere with the exhaust. My linkage is great and I got it from Brewers and will say they are great to deal with.
 
chryslerfat said:
As said the bottom ears interfere with the exhaust. My linkage is great and I got it from Brewers and will say they are great to deal with.
Click to expand...

I got the same kit from Brewers, but mine isn't right. I'm thinking it's cause my motor is jacked up with shims cause of the fenderwell headers. Other than that, most people don't have issues with the Brewer's kit though. I'm not running under chassis headers either.

Also, it clears so much nicer than the Lakewood, which is what I was really wanting to run. Know anybody that's wanting a new Lakewood bell for small block/833?
 
I am running a 340 4-speed, original aluminum 10.5 bellhousing and flywheel, my bellhousing does not hit the firewall or floor, no mods needed, motor has no shims either. I bought the 10.5 early a-body conversion kit from Brewers, well worth the $, fits great and shifts even better!! Kit came with offset linkage adjuster, new bushings, heavy duty bell crank and mounting bracket and offset clutch fork mounting bracket (maybe more but forget) I am running a stock fork that came with the newer bell.

For a clutch I am running a Centerforce II and centerforce pressure plate and throw out bearing. This baby shifts like a new car is is very easy to drive. I run my car hard on the street and at the track, engine makes 400 HP and it is holding up great after 5 years of abuse :burnout:
 
thanks for the input, ill post more as i go. i just sent out another 340 block to the machine shop and it should be done in a couple of weeks. then its back together i hope!
 
Got my new clutch parts, 10.5 disc, flywheel and bellhousing. Motor still at the machine shop but got cam in, and ordered pistons. My little hellfish should be a monster when she rolls out of the garage this time. I cc'd the heads the other day at the machine shop and at 70cc should end up at 10.9:1 comp. Feel like a little kid waiting for x-mas morning.
 
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