Convince me to put a TKX in my Dart

[72bluNblu]

After messing around with it, I'm genuinely surprised that you are able to use the factory top plate with the T56. If the spacing in the shift pattern between 1st and 5th is the same on a TKX vs. a T56, then I just can't see how you are able to get the T56 into reverse without running into clearance issues. My 5 speed pattern basically takes up the entire shift opening.

With my shifter centered in the boot as perfect as I can get it and the console sitting on the hump without the brackets being tacked in, I still can't seem to shift into reverse without the shifter pulling the entire console toward the rear a bit. I felt underneath and I have clearance. What I think is happening is the boot itself pulls so tight in reverse that it pulls the entire console backward. It doesn't do this in 2nd or 4th. I can hold the console down tight and shift into reverse without it moving but I can definitely tell its tight and would probably cause premature damage to the boot at some point. I guess the one saving grace is that you're not in reverse very often.

Had the wife sit in the car and she can't really reach the pedals well enough with the console centered the way I have it. I think the only way to do it would be to shorten the shifter bracket by about an inch, but then that would put the ash tray an inch closer to the shifter and I'd have to try cutting away the ash tray area as much as possible to get the clearance I need without it ever being noticeable from the top. Not sure if that's possible.

Yeah I haven't had any issue with the factory top plate and my slightly modified '71 B-body non-console pistol grip shifter. It pretty much uses the entire 4 speed opening in the top plate, but I didn't have to cut anything on the top plate. Obviously my entire console is mounted in a custom location which is further back because of the T56. And my tunnel is different too, so it may sit at a different angle than factory as well.

 

[Norm.P]

Figured it's my duty to update this, since there is now a TKX in my A-Body lol!
Silver Sport Transmissions have been fantastic to deal with, top notch customer service. No regrets, highly recommend!

As far as cost, the complete kit was right around $6k, with everything I could ask for and more. This is including a nice dial indicator to measure bellhousing run-out, a better clutch than what they include in the kit (I requested a 700hp unit), and their hydraulic concentric slave cylinder which is a $650 upgrade.

As far as ease of installation, my mind is still blown. I was able to do 90% of the work in 2 days. From 727 out, to TKX in. Now only waiting on FedEx to deliver the 31 spline 1350 slip yoke from Strange, and 1350 pinion yoke so I can measure for a new driveshaft and get that going.

As far as the cutting, it is WAY LESS than a T-56, or TKO! Like Silver Sport mentions in the instructions, those instructions were developed for the TKO, so the TKX may require less cutting. What I did was, I completely ignored the instructions and cut little by little, to figure out the least necessary amount. Check it out:

View attachment 1716000224

As you can see, apart from the obvious opening for the shifter, the tunnel only needed that minor split in the middle. That gap is so small I could even just fill it with weld lol!

Now, the part that hurts. Yes, the upper section of the crossmember does need to be cut. I did everything in my power to avoid it, but I couldn't. So I still need to figure out a way to re-join both sides. There is no way in hell I'm just leaving both sides disconnected like that. Here is another picture for a slightly different perspective:

View attachment 1716000225

I will update this thread when I have that solved.

Did you unspring or remove the Torsion Bars before cutting?

 

[Arthur Sperotto]

Did you unspring or remove the Torsion Bars before cutting?

No sir.

 

[340sFastback]

Yeah I haven't had any issue with the factory top plate and my slightly modified '71 B-body non-console pistol grip shifter. It pretty much uses the entire 4 speed opening in the top plate, but I didn't have to cut anything on the top plate. Obviously my entire console is mounted in a custom location which is further back because of the T56. And my tunnel is different too, so it may sit at a different angle than factory as well.

Did you have to move or modify the rear console bracket?

 

[72bluNblu]

Did you have to move or modify the rear console bracket?

So I don't really have a good answer for that question because I made my console brackets. My '74 was a bench seat, column shifted car to begin with so it never had factory brackets and I wasn't going to spend $100 on factory brackets that I knew I'd probably have to modify.

I located the console based entirely on where the shifter was, I just set it in place, got the shift handle opening the top plate in the right spot and made the brackets to fit the tunnel where it was at. The front mount is just a piece of flat stock I bent to match the tunnel and console, the rear is a ~1.5" wide section of 2x3 tubing I cut so I had a "C" shaped section of the correct height.

Overall I think the console is a few inches further back than the original factory location, so if you have factory brackets they wouldn't be in the factory location regardless. I didn't compare the bracket heights to factory so I can't really say if a factory set of brackets would work without modification. I would suspect that they would need some modification.

 

[Norm.P]

Here is a link to the Holley/Hurst hoop and transmission cross member.

Hurst 67520001 Hurst Transmission Crossmember & Floor Brace for 1967-1976 Mopar A-bodies

Tthe "Hoop" I refer to is missing in your photo and 72bluNblu shows going over his T56. The sheet metal they refer is the patch panel to replace the areas you cut out to fit the transmission in the tunnel.

My TKO swap was $3350 (install by my dad and I) about 5 years ago mostly because I started with a 4 speed car and didn't need a drive shaft (stock length was perfect), Flywheel, or pressure plate (I just needed a disc to match the spline) and retained the stock clutch linkage. I will the aluminum bell they sent liked the 72-up Z-bar pivot if you're going that route. I love my TKO600 and had a Tremec 3550 before and both shifted smooth and were fun to beat on.

That TKX isn't saving any work over a TKO or T56 on an A-body. It was probably made for the cookie cutter 1 wire Chevy crowd.

Which transmission mount are you using for this unit?

 

[dano]

Which transmission mount are you using for this unit?

They sent a rubber GM one with the kit. I swapped it for another when I remade their cross member to clear the exhaust scallops of the torsion bar cross member better. They make different height GM mounts, might shim to height and check your transmission, driveshaft and pinion angle.

At the end of the day, it better and easier to make your own hoop and cross member, if you can. That old Holley one isn't that great. The newer swap stuff looks stronger and more thought out.