Cool Can. Use one or not?

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TAZLDAZL

AMSOIL DEALER
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I've been rebuilding my 71 demon bracket racer for a couple of years now. Started to run the fuel lines and remembered that I bought a used Moroso Fuel Cool Can a while back. Now that I'm running my fuel lines I'm wandering do I really want to use this thing. For one The fender wells have been cut out so nothing their to mount on. I will have to mount it on the front radiator support on the passenger side. I have fenderwell headers on a 400 BB. I am going to still run the fuel line along the frame rail and up to the front of the motor. I then have to choose do I go up to the cool can or not use it and go up the front of the motor to the carb. Your thoughts will be welcomed and considered. This is my first post in the racing forum and look forward to talking with everyone in the future.
TAZZ
 

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By running the cool can, you will get a denser fuel charge. They work pretty good in some climates, but here in the Texas heat and humidity they are a pain to keep ice in.
 
I run one but it is mostly for the "kool" factor, mine is a vintage one from 1969. I have ran ice in it before at the track but that's it.
 
i had the oldstyle moroso can and now have the new one myself have not tried it yet still putting car together.i use dry ice in my can.
 
Just my opinion.
You're better off building a full flow fuel system rather than using a cool can.
The full flow system cured all my hot fuel stumbles.
And it works all the time.No ice to add to make it work.Maintenance free.
 
I've been rebuilding my 71 demon bracket racer for a couple of years now. Started to run the fuel lines and remembered that I bought a used Moroso Fuel Cool Can a while back. Now that I'm running my fuel lines I'm wandering do I really want to use this thing. For one The fender wells have been cut out so nothing their to mount on. I will have to mount it on the front radiator support on the passenger side. I have fenderwell headers on a 400 BB. I am going to still run the fuel line along the frame rail and up to the front of the motor. I then have to choose do I go up to the cool can or not use it and go up the front of the motor to the carb. Your thoughts will be welcomed and considered. This is my first post in the racing forum and look forward to talking with everyone in the future.
TAZZ
I am old school and if I wanted an extra .35 faster time I hade to run a cool can... with the old school fuel system on a 87 degree day and throw cold gas at it, It is helpful..... fact for sure on a stock hp driver 340 car if I wanted to get into the high 8 second 1/8 mile driver, No can was a mid 9 sec..every time... use it if you race it.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

nqjkw, Don't know what a full flow fuel system is. Tried googling it & all I came up with was a valve. Can you explain please.

mjs69gts, Many years ago when I use to see these alot I would see just dry ice. That is what I plan on using also. Can't see using ice for it would just melt after every run.

I've made and welded on a bracket to hold the can up against the radiator support. Will finish running the fuel line tonight and start on the rest of the accesseries, ie belts wires and start cleaning up the engine bay. Have a few more things to do and hope to have this up and running by the end of March.

Thanks again for everyones opion.
TAZZ
 
A full flow system is having a regulator with a return.The fuel is constantly flowing and doesn't get as hot as standing fuel waiting to get used. But this can be put in with a cool can also and would even work better. The fuel entering the can is not as hot to start with and doesn't sit waiting to enter the carb.. The regulator should be mounted as close to the carb or injection as possible and the cool can as close to to the relulator. Use the can no matter what system you use.
 
Some thoughts -
I agree the full flow will cure any "hot fuel" issues and keep the supply constant, which is the ultimate goal. I also agree it's a PITA to keep ice in. They do help, but as far as using a full flow with cool can, I would omit the can because you're simply going to end up with a chilly fuel tank.
I don't like where you're mounting it... If you have a tire failure the can is exposed. Either move it or put a debris shield aroudn it and the lines.
On your breathers... You need to get a hose that is oil and fuel compatible - That heater hose will soften and then can suck itself closed. Braided is best if you can afford it.
 
Tanks again everyone for your comments.
Here is an update.
Moper, Thanks for you concern about the location. I know in the pictures it's just sitting on the fender brace. I made a "L" bracket and welded it to the flat part right above the can in the top picture and then again along the diaganal bracing. Since it has its own mounting tabs that the hose clamps go through I just drilled two holes for them and screwed it solid to the baracket. So now its flush with top of the radiator and sits kind a under the fender. I'll try and post a picture later.
Ran my fuel lines and put on new fittings. Will run the fuel line from the cool can to the carb later after I finish up dressing all my electrical and figure what double fuel bowl/regulator configuation I'll be running at the carb.
Thanks again for the infor on the breather hoses. Never concidered anything about the fuel or oil. I have always seen plastic clear ones but couldn't find what I thought was a stiff enough to use. The braided hose is excellent idea. I'll have to see what I have in my stash.

Thanks FABO members
TAZZ
 
nqjkw, Don't know what a full flow fuel system is. Tried googling it & all I came up with was a valve. Can you explain please.

TAZZ

Tazz, most crburetted cars including yours have what is called a "dead head" system.That is,fuel is pumped from the tank and is stopped dead at the needle and seat.

Oldmanmopar described "full flow" system well with

A full flow system is having a regulator with a return.The fuel is constantly flowing and doesn't get as hot as standing fuel waiting to get used.

I'll show you mine just to explain it better

wqye12.jpg


Fuel is delivered to the fuel rail (log) and lines from the tank via the silver insulated line at the bottom of the pic.The regulator at the rear of the engine is used is set up at the other end so it works as a bypass reg.You can get a bypass reg but this is how you plumb up an ordinary holley blue reg to work as a bypass reg.
The guage at the front measures working pressure.The guage at the rear measures bypass pressure but is not really necessary.
The port below the rear guage now sports a seder for an autometer fuel pressure guage mounted in my dash.


28t9ctl.jpg


This pic shows the return line which runs from the reg back to the tank.When returning into the tank you need to install a drop tube so the fuel is returned submerged.If you just dump it straight into the top of the tank the percolation will kill your octanes in no time.It's also a good idea to return it to the opposite end of the tank from your suction line so that you are not just circulating the same fuel.

My setup looks complicated but only because it's feeding 3 carbs but it's really quite simple and easy.

Hope this helps explain it.
 
I traveled with my son all over the states racing. We have seen top contenders keep their fuel in refrigerators in their race trailers and pour it in at staging. The fact is the colder the charge the more power you recieve from what you induce. Our tank and fuel lines were usually sweating also .
 
I traveled with my son all over the states racing. We have seen top contenders keep their fuel in refrigerators in their race trailers and pour it in at staging. The fact is the colder the charge the more power you recieve from what you induce. Our tank and fuel lines were usually sweating also .

Mate,I believe you.
It's something I've always been going to try but never got around to it.
This one of mine is a street car and a cool can is not all that practical on the street.
Well,not at my age,anyway.:lol:
 
I traveled with my son all over the states racing. We have seen top contenders keep their fuel in refrigerators in their race trailers and pour it in at staging. The fact is the colder the charge the more power you recieve from what you induce. Our tank and fuel lines were usually sweating also .


I've seen the cold cans work, especially when there are other class limitations like Stock Eliminator, or crate engine classes. But Ive never seen the fridge deal. Cool idea (filed away for some other time :) )
 
Nqkjw,
Thanks for the pictures of your full flow system. I now undrstand what you and oldmanmopar were describing. As for now I will be just be keeping it simple. I forgot to get picts last night of the install of the cool can. Will try and post some tomorrow.

Thanks for all the replies everyone.
TAZZ
 
i also run a full return fuel system with the moroso adjustable fuel log and regulator built in.
 
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