Couple Dumb questions...

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ryansiki

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So I just picked up my first A body( 75 Valiant Brougham). Definitely needs some work, but I cannot get the hood open. The stupid hood release cable seems to be seized. Is there any other way to open the hood? Also whats the best way to get into the trunk, and I'm having a little bit of trouble finding the bolts to remove the bench seat. Do you guys/gals have any bench seat removal tips too? All opinions/answers are appreciated
 
To open the hood: At the front of the car lay on your back and look up in between the bumper and radiator support. Have someone operate the cable release, you will see the latch. Try operating latch by hand to open hood. Another option is to push down on hood while someone operates latch.

To remove the back seat: You must remove the bottom section first by pushing the front of the bottom seat toward the back of the car and lifting at the same time. This can be a pain to do if you've never done it before.

There are no bolts holding on bottom section, only hooks. That's why you need to push in and lift on front. Once you have the bottom section out you'll have access to the bolts that hold the back section in.
 
those back seat bottoms can be a real pain if you have never dun one DEMON408 has given you good directions ......Artie
 
Also I'm having some trouble removing the front bench. I'm guessing it's held on by a couple of bolts, but for some reason I can't find them when I look under the seat. Any tips?
 
I have removed 3 back seats 2 in duster and one in a dart all 3 needed a recipricating saw to be removed and the bolts are under the car for the front bench seat
 
Run the front seat forward as far as it goes to give you more room to remove the rear seat. I usually use my foot to kick the rear seat bottom rearward while I lift up a bit on the top edge. As was mentioned, once the bottom is out you can see the attaching point on each side that hold the upper section. Once it's out, you can remove the cardboard filler (if it's still there) and gain access to the trunk. I use a ratchet with 4 feet of extensions and a 1/2" socket to take the latch loose. Then the lid will come up and you can pull the lock cylinder to get a key made. Hood latch cables can be a pain. First I would lube everything in site while I work the cable as much as it will let you. If there is a kink where you can reach it, try to straighten it out a little and try again. If it still won't release, I would try to take apart some of the front end parts to gain enough access to either trigger the latch or unbolt it. Sometimes there is a little guard in the way so it will take some doing to get it loose without damage.
 
The bolts for the front bench seat are really rusted, and I can't get 'em out.Do you guys/gals have any rusty bolt removal tips?
 
spray them down with bp blaster, let soak and hose them down again, when I'm dealing with a rusted scuzz covered bolt, I'll spray them down for a day and usually after they soak overnight they come off easy.
 
The seat tracks should have a stud pressed into it that poke down through the floor pan where a washered nut comes up from the bottom to hold the seat in. If it looks like the nuts won't come loose without breaking the stud off, I would cut the nut off with a nut cracker, chisel, grinder....something that will leave the stud intact. You can clean the stud up good after the seat is out. If you break the stud, you'll end up having to use a bolt and nut which is a pain to do with one person.
 
There is some stuff called Kroil we use at work. Amaizing if you can find it. PBlaster is a good second choice (that's what I use at home). Replacing the stud with a bolt isn't too bad, just be sure to use grade 8 and back it up with a washer. If you are donig it alone, try JB Welding the bolt/washer in place with a little gorilla tape to hold it in place the night before. The next day it should hold enough to let the force of the nut keep it from spinning on you.
 
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