Couple questions

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Ironmike

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Pressed out all my front susp bushings, everything's blasted and plan to press the new ones in tomorrow and spray on a coat of primer.

I noticed 2 things today that I'm questioning. Hope you guys can set me staraight.

1, I noticed my passenger side strut rod has a slight bend. Rolling it across a dead flat welding table shows a slight "tweak". Should I straighten it a bit, replace it, or install as is? It's really very slight. Unnoticable to the naked eye.

2. 1 torsion bar has a very shallow "nick" on it. Don't know how it got there. I removed 'em with the lower control arms.....plop right out with no effort. I've heard that if they're marred at all, replace 'em.
Should I throw it back in ,or replace ? As above a very minor "ding".

Everything going back on is brand new and I hate to seem cheap, but money is getting a bit tight. New motor, fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, front suspension, etc. You know what I mean?
 
Yes we do. :-D

Pictures of the trouble spots would be a lot more helpful to give an opinion about. (I realize the torsion bar picture won't help unless it's a video. LOL)

Good luck with the reassembly!
 
I also found a bent strut rod when rebuilding my front,I just got a good straight one and felt better.
 
I straightened out a bent strut rod, and it broke when I took it over my 'test road'.
 
Someone probably put a tow hook on the strut rod and bent it pulling the car sideways. I would find a good used one. A tiny nick in the torsion bar probably wont hurt anything. Those are easy enough to replace if it breaks. The strut rod is not easily replaced later.
 
I have all brand new bushings, but might see if Pettybludart still has 'em

On the other hand, was wondering what advantages the "Dynamic" strut rods have. Seems like everybodies selling them, but don't see how they can be adjusted without side loading the lower control arm bushing.

Don't seem feasable. (can't believe I said feasable)

Oh, yeah. Got all my bushings in today and both uppers and lowers drying with their first coat of Eastwood's Extreme chassis black. Sure looks reeeeeal nice. A little tricky but with the right size pipes, sockets, etc,.,,,,it goes real smooth. My old piece o' crap Harbor Freight press has paid for itself a hundred times already.
 
Ironmike said:
I have all brand new bushings, but might see if Pettybludart still has 'em

On the other hand, was wondering what advantages the "Dynamic" strut rods have. Seems like everybodies selling them, but don't see how they can be adjusted without side loading the lower control arm bushing.

Don't seem feasable. (can't believe I said feasable)
Click to expand...

I agree. This might start an argument with those who have purchased adjustable strut rods...
The strut rod serves as a tether to prevent lateral movement of the lower arm. Because it it also configured like the tangent of a triangle the distance changes with up/down movement of the lower arm. Massive rubber bushings at its forward end are used to absort most of the change. Changing the length of the tangent doesn't change a thing until all of the movement in those forward bushings is consumed. Then the lateral pressure on the lower arm bushing results from up/down movement.
A super hard polyurethane lower arm bushing will transfer the stress to the pin and the K frame. They will likely squeak too.
 
My strut rod bushings are PST's Polygraphite. If they sqeek, I'm gonna freak.
 
Ironmike said:
My strut rod bushings are PST's Polygraphite. If they sqeek, I'm gonna freak.
Click to expand...

Poly graphite probably wont squeak Polyurethane lower arm bushing squeak. Some vendors offer grease ported pins for that.
 
I bought PST's "Super Duper Mother of All" kit for 439 bucks. All polygraphite EXCEPT for the lower control arm bushings. They ship good ole rubber ones. Kinda nice of them. That's R&D at it's best. For $439.00 I expect that.

I was kind of surprised how easy it was to rebuild everything. Lots of guys have said it was a bear of a job. Maybe it was easier for me, having a press and tons of pipe ends. The Moparts tech info really was a must read to get the old lowers out. Every man should have a welder8)
 
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