Crack in my 225 block

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Valas

Valas

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Darrington, Washington
I recently got my 74 Gold Duster running again after a year of issue after issue. Brought it into the local shop to have it checked to make sure I got everything right and make sure everything is running properly. I get a call yesterday from the Mechanic telling me he topped off my fluids and let the car run to let everything circulate... That is when he spotted the Crack in my Engine block. I have not gotten a chance to look at the Crack myself so I am not able to send pictures or anymore information other then that it has a crack that he believes is serious.


I will be heading to the Shop to have a look at it myself and take a couple pictures to confirm it. at that point I will need some opinions on what to do.

if there is a quick fix, an easy seal that lasts a few thousand miles or if I need to replace it. If I do have to replace it I need to find out what years are easily interchangeable with the 74, as well a good place to find another 225 slant 6.

Thank you for any help in advance and forgive me for being "not so Mechanically inclined".
 
You can braze it with an oxy/acetylene set up. The trick is it has to be clean and use a lot of flux. This does not prevent the crack form continuing, but stops the leak. Depending on the type of crack and repair this will hold for a long time. The braze filler will expand and contract similar to cast iron.
Good luck
 
There are silicate block sealers at auto parts. If you do this, bypass the radiator so you don't clog it. You have to run pure water with it. If you leave the heater core in, it will help seal any leaks there. Could clog it, but unlikely and they usually put out too much heat anyway. I tried these on my 383 after I cracked the block from freezing one winter. I had drained the coolant but didn't think to pull the drain plugs, which left enough water to crack between the core plugs. Had run pure water to flush the block. I recall the block seal worked, but still saw slight seepage at the crack. I was thinking of trying a high-temp Loctite in the crack, but later installed a rebuilt short block anyway and scrapped mine.

With a slant, don't put too much time into it, unless it is a built-up engine. You can get fine running engines almost free, since so many feel they must install a V-8.
 
a slant at a salvage yard might cost you $100. but that would become a mini project, probably would want to put fresh head gaskets etc.

what other problems have you been experiencing?
~ wiring - freshen up connections, do the mad electrical website amp meter bypass
~ fuel - after 40 years tanks get sediments and clog the lines pretty badly; replacements can be had for $150-$200 nowadays. it's worth it if you want a daily driver.
~ carburation - a simple rebuild kit, some carb cleaner (for spraying out small orificies) and an overnight soak after you get it torn down will do wonders.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/CC3K-Carburetor-Parts-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B000ABGA4E"]Gunk CC3K Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Drip Basket - 96 fl. oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] comes with a basket. be sure to count and record... as you take it apart how many turns the idle screws are out from being fully screwed in, so when you put it back together you know how far they should be adjusted to.
~ cooling - dont use tap water at all, ever. use 50/50 premix antifreeze (the kind you dont add water to).
if you need to flush the system with a garden hose, be sure to fully drain all of the water out of the radiator after the engine is cooled. you will probably want to unhook the lower radiator hose to make sure.


good luck bro
 
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