Crank sprocket slot options

-
KevinB

KevinB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2015
Messages
851
Reaction score
317
Location
Austin
Assembling my 5.9, when I set #1 to tdc, and line up the dots on the crank and cam sprockets, I am forced to use one of the crank sprocket jetways as opposed to the other two options. Each sprocket keyway has a different shape or profile. The cranks key fits the one I'm having to use, but the key doesn't quite fill all the way out to the top of the sprocket keyway. See pics below. Is this gonna be a problem?

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    17.2 KB · Views: 214
Looks like you have a Cloyes 3 key way set. They have 3 slots, "0", "4* BTDC" and "4* ATDC".
The crank key should fit in all 3 slots. I would install it straight up, 0. Sometimes you have to use a file or emery cloth to dress the key as they are prone to burrs and dings.
 
normally the slots have different forms at the top - one is square, one is round and one is shaped like a triangle - and therefore you can find the corresponding stamps on the sproket - and as magnummopar allready wrote each one stands for "0", "4* BTDC" and "4* ATDC".
 
Ok thanks guys, I knew why it had 3 different keyways, I'm using the one that lines up the dots, so one assuming it is 0*, the crown of the keyway was throwing me off. Do you need different keys depending on which slot you use?
 
If you are referring to the "top" of the key slot in gear being square, pointed or round, I think , but check label on box...the pointed is 4*BTDC, the round is 4*ATDC and square is 0. They all use the stock key.

Have not used Cloyes since we discovered Pro Gear. I like the way they mark these better.
 

Attachments

  • pro_gear_camdex_3000_3_keyway__44176.1445364633.451.416.jpg
    13.2 KB · Views: 234
I already threw the box out, but I'll look it up to verify. The slot I'm using is rounded so it's probably correct. For what it's worth, it's a comp cams set, do they use cloyes sprockets maybe?

Anyway thanks for the help!
 
Peyote said:
I already threw the box out, but I'll look it up to verify. The slot I'm using is rounded so it's probably correct. For what it's worth, it's a comp cams set, do they use cloyes sprockets maybe?

Anyway thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

You need to go by whoever made the thing. The key should fit ANY and ALL of the slots...that is what they are for. It might be there is a machining burr in one of the slots, etc

There are always three symbols of "some sort." Say, a "0" a triangle or diamond, and a square. the square timing mark must be used with the square marked slot, the diamond goes with the diamond, and so on. With the thing properly set up, the key should be close to 1-2 O'clock with the marks properly lined up

When putting the distributor back in, remember that "the marks" are NOT no1 ready to fire, but instead no6 ready to fire. Either time the engine with rotor pointing to no6 hole, or else rotate the crank one turn and then set it up
 
dano said:
Are you going to degree the cam too? "Dot to Dot" doesn't cut it.
Click to expand...

I've thought about it but I've heard both arguments. I've heard some say you need to, and some say you don't. From what I understand, degreeing the cam is just a verification that the cam was made correctly. Tell me if I'm wrong

The cam is a custom grind from comp, I don't feel like spending the extra money and time on it if it's just double checking their grind.
 
Peyote said:
I've thought about it but I've heard both arguments. I've heard some say you need to, and some say you don't. From what I understand, degreeing the cam is just a verification that the cam was made correctly. Tell me if I'm wrong

The cam is a custom grind from comp, I don't feel like spending the extra money and time on it if it's just double checking their grind.
Click to expand...

It's good to verify JIC. There have been cases where the grind is a little off... :banghead:
 
krazykuda said:
It's good to verify JIC. There have been cases where the grind is a little off... :banghead:
Click to expand...


Yeah I just don't know if it's worth the $100+ kit to do it. My components are brand new, crank has been reground polished, etc. I'm not cutting too many corners, but this is one I DO want to cut
 
Peyote said:
Yeah I just don't know if it's worth the $100+ kit to do it. My components are brand new, crank has been reground polished, etc. I'm not cutting too many corners, but this is one I DO want to cut
Click to expand...

Man O Man are you going to hear about it. :D

Actually the difference could mean a lazy engine or a strong one.
 
krazykuda said:
It's good to verify JIC. There have been cases where the grind is a little off... :banghead:
Click to expand...

It's not just to check the grind. Cam, crank, chain, etc tolerances can stack up. The only way to correct is an offset key if required.
 
mderoy340 said:
It's not just to check the grind. Cam, crank, chain, etc tolerances can stack up. The only way to correct is an offset key if required.
Click to expand...

I will consider it, but for now my question is answered
 
Two degrees. A member local to me had me help him, had to ask here "where to put it." I think we advanced it something like SIX degrees
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top