cranks and starts but wont keep ruuning

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DBlascyk

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I installed a Ron Francis wiring harness and i was going to start the car for the first time i fired right up but as soon as the key was taken out of start it died. I bought a new balast resistor thinking that was the problem but it did not make a lick of difference.
Do yall have any suggestions im good at mechanical work not so much electrical so if yall could make instructions/suggestions a little detailed i'd appreciate it.

Thanks
Damien B
 
check your wiring there is crank and run on the ignition sounds like your missing something on the run side do a google search
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Make sure the blue wire is there! Also, we need more detail... is this even the setup you are running, Mopar electronic? And what car?
 
It's not the ECU, it's a wiring problem where the run circuit is missing or miswired.
There are two separate wires off the ignition switch for each called Ign1 and Ign2 as shown in the posted diagrams.
 
dodge71demon said:
most older cars do stop running when the key is taken out
Click to expand...
sorry, i meant taken from start to run

It's a 1973 duster with 225 and factory electronic ignition

I have it wired as the instructions say, red wire to the starter, yellow wire to the fuse panel then relay, blue wire to fuse panel then resistor, and black wire to the fuse panel

The brown and small black wire aren't in the instructions so are not connected

I have a picture of the diagram and instructions if y'all would like to look at them
 
What your saying makes no since no wire for the ignition goes to the starter or fuse panel
two come from ignition switch here's a simplified drawing http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Dual_Ballast_5pin.pdf
or go to mymopar.com click on tools reference the wiring electrical diagrams run may be a blue wire coming off the switch to ballast (side that has a jumper between two terminals) see if you have any power there with the key on the other side of the ballast start may be a brown wire going to the switch I'm looking at a 74 diagram
 
do you have a 5 or 4 pin ECU also does the connector have the same amount as the ECU
 
DBlascyk said:
sorry, i meant taken from start to run

It's a 1973 duster with 225 and factory electronic ignition

I have it wired as the instructions say, red wire to the starter, yellow wire to the fuse panel then relay, blue wire to fuse panel then resistor, and black wire to the fuse panel

The brown and small black wire aren't in the instructions so are not connected

T


I have a picture of the diagram and instructions if y'all would like to look at them
Click to expand...

The brown is your problem, here is how Mopar ignition switches work:

There is "start" hot only during starting, and fires up the start relay

There is IGN1 "ignition run" and is hot ONLY in the run position. IT IS NOT powered during cranking

So HOW does the ignition get power during cranking? There is a brown comes off a separate contact on the switch, goes through the bulkhead connector and to the coil+ side of the ballast

Sounds to me like your brown / IGN2/ bypass circuit is connected, but not the run circuit
 
the Ron francis kit has it wired differently than those diagrams but I understand what y'all are saying, I traced the voltage from the blue wire on the switch to the resistor while in run it reads same voltage leaving the switch as entering the resistor(12.7v) the other post on that part of the resistor reads (8.6v) which continues to the coil.
The electricity is getting there what else could be the problem, I feel like I'm just being dumb and missing something simple.
Thanks
Damien B
 
Then makes no sense LOL Take measurements and wiggle the key? Maybe switch going bad?
 
67Dart273 said:
Then makes no sense LOL Take measurements and wiggle the key? Maybe switch going bad?
Click to expand...
Those are the correct voltages? What is the voltage supposed to read on the negative side of the coils, it reads 2.7V from the positive to the negative side of the coil.

Sorry for all the hassle
Damien B.
 
Based on post #12.
Is choke pull off working in carb? Without it working engine, can stall. The vacuum dashpot fails. Set choke, use mightyvac to test. Or pull hose, push in linkage, plug hose, check if it holds, and returns when plug released.
 
KitCarlson said:
Based on post #12.
Is choke pull off working in carb? Without it working engine, can stall. The vacuum dashpot fails. Set choke, use mightyvac to test. Or pull hose, push in linkage, plug hose, check if it holds, and returns when plug released.
Click to expand...

Don't believe this would make it die when the switch is let go from crank
 
got to be someplace in the wiring little things will drive you crazy may be something simple that you have looked at a million times hard to diagnose without hands on -- good luck you'll get it
 
dodge71demon said:
Don't believe this would make it die when the switch is let go from crank
Click to expand...

Do a cold start test without choke pull-off, see how that works for you. Tap throttle once, to set choke prior to crank. No cheating by stepping on throttle to unload choke after it starts.

The voltmeter test suggests coil voltage in run.
 
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