crate motor cam in truck motor

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nrp3

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How well would a crate motor cam I found on Ebag work in an otherwise unmodified 01 magnum truck motor I have? I assume I have lower compression than a crate motor, due to different pistons? I would also have to change to the other mopar springs and retainers? I am interested in this because I am assuming it would work without any further machine work.
 
Correct minus the computer. Can the computer handle the cam. Which cam is it?
 
Actually, this is going in a 76 Duster. I am using a edelbrock 7577 intake and a Holley 770 street avenger. Not sure on rear gearing yet, toss up between 3.73 and 3.55 with 4 spd od.

This from the page:

The Mopar Part Number is P4876348. The Mopar Advertised Duration is 288/292 with the Duration at .050 being 230/234. Lift is .501 on the Intake and .513 on the Exhaust using the stock 1.6 rockers. Center Line is 108 and Over Lap is 74. To get this duration in an "aftermarket" cam, you would most likely have to cut the valve guides on your heads. This is not the case with this Mopar Performance cam.

Mopar rates the power band from Idle to 6000 RPM. This cam can be used with a Mechanical Fuel Pump without an adapter. This is the cam that comes in the Mopar 360/390 HP crate engine and the 406/435 HP crate engine and makes serious power. The cam has never been used and was removed prior to using the motor.
 
Should work fine. It's a pretty good size cam so the 3:73's would probably be much better. Since you have OD you might even think about 3:91's or 4:10's
 
I bought it and a used flywheel. So, now I have to figure out how to install it. It'll be a first for me. I am going to change the timing chain while we're at it. Suppose I'll have to get a degree wheel as well. Not sure what spec to install it at. Whats the term, straight up or 0 degrees of advance?
 
You need the cam card to know what to degree it to. If you don't have it you can try a search to find one. If you can't find one I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just buy a good timing set. I tested 3 new different timing sets last year just to see how accurate they were. 2 came out within a half of a degree of each other. They were the Cloyes double roller set and a Comp cams double roller set. A fairly expensive billet set with 8 adjustments sold by Summit by their own name was 3 degrees retarded. If a person used that chain set without degreeing it in the engine would be down on low end torque but gain a little on the top end.

Go for a true roller set if you can afford it as not all double roller sets are true rollers. The true rollers use a little less energy to spin and last longer I've read.
 
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