Cup Style Pushrod Adjuster Screws

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12many

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Looking to swap out the ball style pushrod adjusters in my Erson roller rockers for some cup style in preparation for sorting the geometry and was looking for reviews from those that have used the PRW adjuster versions, either cup or ball 3/8-24 threads. Opinions on quality, durability, etc after use, adjustments over time. I’m assuming these are what come in the PRW rockers many are using so just wondering how they are holding up. Can get Manton, Smith etc for about $150 or PRW’s for about $90ADJUSTER SCREW KIT, VALVE LASH, 3/8"-24 x 32.20mm, Top Oiler, Cup End, Set of 16

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I’m using those and they are fine. I’m not sure you can just swap adjusters from ball to cup without doing some work to them.

I have some MP W2 rockers that I’m going to bush myself but I think I’m going to send them to B3 and let him do the conversion to cup adjusters.
 
12many said:
Looking to swap out the ball style pushrod adjusters in my Erson roller rockers for some cup style in preparation for sorting the geometry and was looking for reviews from those that have used the PRW adjuster versions, either cup or ball 3/8-24 threads. Opinions on quality, durability, etc after use, adjustments over time. I’m assuming these are what come in the PRW rockers many are using so just wondering how they are holding up. Can get Manton, Smith etc for about $150 or PRW’s for about $90ADJUSTER SCREW KIT, VALVE LASH, 3/8"-24 x 32.20mm, Top Oiler, Cup End, Set of 16

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I’d like to do this also. Kim
 
yellow rose said:
I’m using those and they are fine. I’m not sure you can just swap adjusters from ball to cup without doing some work to them.

I have some MP W2 rockers that I’m going to bush myself but I think I’m going to send them to B3 and let him do the conversion to cup adjusters.
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Not sure what work to them would need to be done. I just screw the ball adjusters out and screw the cup style in (3/8-24 threads) From what I’m reading it’s just a matter of how many threads show initially on the cup version (approx 1 to 1-1/2) vs the ball version (2 to 3) according to Manton. Turns out I might need slightly longer versions as mine are actually about 1.380” PRW adjusters are slightly shorter. I’m seeing 1.250”, 1.300”, and 1.500” offered by Smith. I’ll be talking to B3 as well to make sure I get the correct length for setting things up for the measurements he’ll need for his correction kit

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12many said:
Not sure what work to them would need to be done. I just screw the ball adjusters out and screw the cup style in (3/8-24 threads) From what I’m reading it’s just a matter of how many threads show initially on the cup version (approx 1 to 1-1/2) vs the ball version (2 to 3) according to Manton. Turns out I might need slightly longer versions as mine are actually about 1.380” PRW adjusters are slightly shorter. I’m seeing 1.250”, 1.300”, and 1.500” offered by Smith. I’ll be talking to B3 as well to make sure I get the correct length for setting things up for the measurements he’ll need for his correction kit

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If your rocker has Chrysler oiling you can’t oil the cup style adjuster with it. You have to make it so the feed to the cup is through the adjuster.

So unless your rocker has oil feeding directly to the screw you have to get it there. The squirt system Chrysler used won’t do it.
 
I get what your describing, the threaded cup adjusters are available with either oil holes straight through, which is what I think your talking about and would rely on theoretical oil spray/splash or dribble, or using oil-thru pushrods (I do have Howard’s EDM solid lifters that would work with the pushrods although that is not advised obviously with shaft oiling) and there are the adjusters that have a groove that lines up with rockers for the feed. I see it’s not as easy as one might think. Probably just stick with what I have and get the geometry sorted
 
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yellow rose said:
If your rocker has Chrysler oiling you can’t oil the cup style adjuster with it. You have to make it so the feed to the cup is through the adjuster.

So unless your rocker has oil feeding directly to the screw you have to get it there. The squirt system Chrysler used won’t do it.
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I’d just pushrod oil it.

You’d still to need retain the factory oiling for the rocker fulcrum, shaft, and valves....... and the pushrods would oil themselves and the adjusters.
 
PRH said:
I’d just pushrod oil it.

You’d still to need retain the factory oiling for the rocker fulcrum, shaft, and valves....... and the pushrods would oil themselves and the adjusters.
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Yeah, you can do that. If you don’t do that I wouldn’t rely on splash oiling a ball pushrod end through the Chrysler hole. If you rely on that hole, you’d have to hang adjuster a mile down to get any oil on the ball.

I just do not like the oil at the lifters. I’d rather block it off.

Edit: 12 is running EDM lifters so he has to have oil there so PR oiling may be the easiest way to get it done.
 
As yet to determine the pushrod length I will need, waiting on the arrival of the B3Racing correction kit for that. I’m still sussing out if I should swap the ball adjusters to cup style for further better geometry (and use oiling pushrods) This is a question for those that have actually changed from ball to cups: What, if any, change in valve lift was realized? In your case, or of those you perhaps have setup. I understand it will vary in each case. Mike at B3 already mentioned that the Erson roller rockers (shaft to tip centers) I’m using are slightly short on the valve side, and in my situation the shafts will only be going up (not away, and not worth the work to modify the shafts to move a little closer to the valves) I failed to ask him about the ball vs cup adjusters. Wondering if any additional lift (however slight etc) could be gained on the pushrod side? Weekend wonderings:)
 
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Cheap is Not the way to go on the rocker assemblies for the SBM, at least not in my opinion. I have a lot of money invested in my rocker assemblies, as well as the B3 correction. I'm quite happy & have had no problems with my 408. I'll be getting with B3 when I get my heads back from the machinist for my 416.
 
^^^^^ Absolutely. I dont know anything about cheap parts, most everything I end up buying is overkill :rolleyes: like the Erson’s which certainly weren’t cheap money or quality wise, much stouter than what I’ve seen in the price range they were, plenty strong for the springs and cam I’m using. I’m talking converting ball adjusters to cup adjusters to improve the geometry further if possible. Applies to any adjustable rockers.
 
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I ended up buying Crane adjusters after breaking 1 of the originals that came with the proform rockers.
 
To be honest I like the adjusters that came with the Harland Sharps but the cranes will do the job and I'm hoping they are better quality.

One of the proform adjusters literally snapped in half while tightening it.
 
Hysteric said:
To be honest I like the adjusters that came with the Harland Sharps but the cranes will do the job and I'm hoping they are better quality.

One of the proform adjusters literally snapped in half while tightening it.
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Ball or cup adjuster??
 
Hysteric said:
I ended up buying Crane adjusters after breaking 1 of the originals that came with the proform rockers.
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the Allen stud adjuster broke? Wow! I think everyone would like to see a picture of that.
 
A “little” bit of a difference between the two. Think I’ll check and see what my net lift is now with a ball-ball checking pushrod (pre-correction kit) I think it’ll be minimal if anything at all.

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