Custom Slant6 carb heat shield

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/sixchall

/sixchall

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Thought maybe you Slant6 enthusiasts would like to see the carb heat shield I had made up and polished. With the split Hooker headers I put on I noticed a lot more heat build up in the engine bay and under the carb. So to reduce the possibility of vapor lock I had this made at a machine shop. It’s made from 1/8” T6 aircraft aluminum and a little custom work for interest then polished. I’ve been running a Super Six setup with a Carter BBD 2bbl. The carb showing on the shield is a Holley 2bbl R9712. What do you think? Thanks, Al

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I like it! Looks nice! Hopefully it does more than look nice. lol
 
Al, Looks really great!

As an aside, I haven’t yet installed those DART letters I got from you. I still need to find another set!
 
Dartman hey how has it been? Great to hear from you. Appreciate your comments here on my heat shield. Hope you run across some more letters. Stay in touch. Al
 
couple that with a 4mm phenolic spacer and you have the best of both worlds
phenolic for heat conduction into carb when stopped
The plate covers air convection reduction into air cleaner
and the shinyness covers radiation reduction... i.e shiny is good. don't paint it black

Job done
 
very cool! attention to detail is impressive, the rounded off corners are a nice touch.
 
Dave 999, when I install it, I’m planning on using 2 of the thicker carb gaskets, the ones with the crush sleeves. Between the shield and the 2 gaskets ( one above shield and one below ) that should be all I need for insulation. Will also increase the plenum area slightly under carb. That will lift the carb a little higher off intake manifold.
 
thinking about it it probably would work on an australian hemi 6 2bbl as well.... the inlet manifold is much the same with some variance in positioning of inlet runners.
and of course potentially 80s jeeps with the bbd that all the electronic cut off and idle mix control stuff... the market widens.... :)
 
Careful how much thickness you build up in your carb mount gaskets; you can lift the carb too high for the choke to be able to close all the way, then you'll have to make a new choke pushrod (easier if you start with the № 1232 electric choke kit). And lifting the carburetor up like that also affects your throttle linkage and your automatic transmission kickdown linkage, as well as hood clearance to the air cleaner.
 
Very cool! I made a more crude version out of a sheet of aluminum but I could not get the damn thing to seal up despite it being as flat as could be when tested with a straight edge.
 
Looks snazzy, I like it. Good job! Looks and function, the best of both worlds.
 
Thanks Dan for your timely advice. I had expected and anticipated any if not all of what you mentioned. I’ve been using a manual choke fortunately the cable I’m using can be adjusted. Throttle cable and kick down are Lokar and I love them because they are adjustable as well. And living in SoCal adjusting for cold weather drivability is not like other parts of the country where it gets really cold and the white stuff covers the ground. Even triple digit summertime weather hasn’t been a problem. As for hood clearance, since the Dodge is a 70 Challenger I installed the 2 scoop power bulge hood with considerable amount of hood clearance.On the present air cleaner, a 10”x3” with K&N filter,chrome type air cleaner, I set a ball of tin foil on top of the air cleaner and closed the hood. The amount of crush shows I have enough clearance. I noticed looking into the drivers side scoop opening the air cleaner lines up as an in line shot.
 
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