Cutting A833 Input Shaft Question
- Thread starter E Satterfield
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Glad you are back on the road, enjoy grabbing gears!
chrisskates2004
Well-Known Member
Any photos will go a long way in trying to figure out this one
E Satterfield
Well-Known Member
It seems our friend from New Zealand has an A833 shaft that appears to have never been previously cut. But is 1” or better shorter than a factory Mopar.
I believe what he’s trying to figure out is what application his transmission could have come from using an input shaft that short instead of the usual 2” plus in front of the splines on factory Chrysler products.
Did any other manufacturers use Chrysler manual transmissions with a shorter factory input shaft?
I believe what he’s trying to figure out is what application his transmission could have come from using an input shaft that short instead of the usual 2” plus in front of the splines on factory Chrysler products.
Did any other manufacturers use Chrysler manual transmissions with a shorter factory input shaft?
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chrisskates2004
Well-Known Member
spot on !
Perhaps GM with the 18 spline,
many thanks from the small country down under, down under Australia LOL
Perhaps GM with the 18 spline,
many thanks from the small country down under, down under Australia LOL
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I may be wrong but I don't think standard Mopar aluminum 833 OD or GM cases had these gussets.............
FWIW, The MP Chassis book implies all bell housings are the same length at 7.380". Realize adding a .125" block saver plate relocates the stock pivot point rearward as well.
This input appears to have been shortened already. I wouldn't be too anxious to chop any more off of it. Once you have the bell setup you're going to use you'll have a better idea of what mod may be necessary...
Some good info on the 833 here...................
Chrysler A-833 Transmissions — How to Rebuild and Modify
Passon Performance is the world leader in transmission technology for your Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth vehicle!
chrisskates2004
Well-Known Member
Hi Dave, all good points here thanks. You make a good point with the gussets.
If it has been shortened what do you think it has been shortened for and with an 18 spline?
What's this MP chassis book you talk of? I did a search and couldn't find much about it.
The machine job looks very good if they have done one. I almost need a custom-made bell housing to make it available behind a 6 and an SBM but I don't think this is possible.
Thanks for your "input"
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I have no way of knowing.
Maybe you can use my previous drawing I posted and base it on a LA or B-RB engine setup to determine if its cut to fit in the crank converter hub bearing(?).
Several editions have been released. You see them available on Ebay occasionally........
A b-body aluminum case for some reference........
FOR SALE - RARE-Aluminum 18 Spline 308 Big Bearing Hemi 4 Speed Case and Tail Housing-Build your own Light Weight 4 Speed B & E Body
chrisskates2004
Well-Known Member
i guess it is hard to tell if it has been altered
yep I think Ill do that, Ill have to brush up on the imperial measurements.
I do wonder why would some one shorten the input shaft in favour to run it in the convertor spigot ?
that looks like a handy book, ill keep an eye out for one
Daves69
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I'm thinking the majority of factory cranks only had a center drilled for machining. Others had various rough dimensions drilled. Then there are the application specific for the manual trans. Those LA & B-RB cranks that are not drilled can house the newer converter snout bearing for a shortened input shaft. It tends to be easier to install a bearing and cut an input rather than drilling a crank to size, pressing, then sizing the bushing, especially with the crank in the engine and the engine in the car.
BTW, it's advisable to indicate a new bell housing to the cranks center line per the FSM.......
Service Manuals – MyMopar
mymopar.com
chrisskates2004
Well-Known Member
the crank centre makes sense, i thought they were all drilled to take a pilot bush for a longer input shaft but I guess not
makes sense for this one to perhaps be a shortened "long" input shaft, and perhaps was suited to be put behind a non-drilled crank.
at the time the owner perhaps thought Ill die with this car but the engine probably blew up and the trans was on sold and the shortening of the shaft was forgotten through the hands of trade
yep, i agree trying to drill a crank in situ would be impossible to do it accurately
I've seen a few setups with a dial gauge and a centre made for the bearing retainer bearing, is that what you mean by
"BTW, it's advisable to indicate a new bell housing to the cranks centre line per the FSM....... "
what is an FSM?
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Factory Service Manual
They are free to download on the link in my previous post.
How To Align Your Bellhousing For Maximum Transmission And Clutch Life
You should align your bellhousing and transmission when mating them up to make sure that there isn't a bind when you go for that heroic shift. Nobody wants to be the guy who misses a shift, and you don't want to be the person tearing things apart for a damage inspection!
www.holley.com
chrisskates2004
Well-Known Member
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your patience,
I've downloaded a few of them and will read through them later on,
That's a handy link, Ill read up on that now
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