Cylinder Heads

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Dan the man

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I owe everyone a apology on here concerning cylinder heads for the sbm's. I was looking around and decided to check out cylinder heads for the sbm's and I fully understand why most on here buy speedmaster or Flo tech. I don't remember the exact amount but edelbrock heads were something like $2300 for the pair and trick flow was like a little over $2000 and speedmaster was around $1100 for the pair. I did check out what it would cost to have a set of cylinder heads checked out but I don't remember what the cost was. Also I have a 1972 scamp to check out, I hope this one is it.
 
Compare flow specs and porting costs. Level of porting important, as in how far you go.
 
They don't have to be aluminum, I was thinking about using a closed chamber heads so I can run the pistons at zero deck height or a little under. Is quench important for a daily driver? Also what would be a good intake runner size? I was thinking a 170cc intake runner size. The engine won't be ran over 5500 rpm's.
 
They don't have to be aluminum, I was thinking about using a closed chamber heads so I can run the pistons at zero deck height or a little under.
I bay closed chambered iron head are you thinking of?
What engine size again?
Aluminum is more tolerant of high compression than iron is. While everything about running a higher compression, material be darned, is timing and fuel/fuel management.

I’ve had better results running an 11-1 aluminum headed engine over a 10-1 iron head engine. The difference was chamber size & design.

An open chamber J head w/zero deck KB-107’s and a .038 head gasket is 9.8-1. Closing the chamber up to 63cc is a tad more than a point of compression. 9.8-1 to 10.84-1.
Is quench important for a daily driver?
No
Also what would be a good intake runner size? I was thinking a 170cc intake runner size.
A stock head can power a car into the mid 13’s easy. Skip head cc and think about the heads flow numbers.
The engine won't be ran over 5500 rpm's.
A stock head can handle that. My compression example above with the iron head and a 1.88 intake valve powered my 360 to 6700 rpm. While head runner cc has a roll as well as what it flows with what ever valve being used, it’s more so the over all combo and the way the engine is designed.

IMO, most everyone here runs to an aluminum head and dumps the iron for various and rarely a worthy good reason since the iron head can do what most think it can’t, often!
 
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Engine is a LA 360, 2 barrel. I was thinking about building it like Chrysler did the 1974 high performance 360's. Have a car to look at. I only thought of the speedmaster cylinder heads because of what the cost could be for rebuilding a set of stock cylinder heads. Hopefully the car I'm fixin to check out is as the owner says
 
Best of luck on the car hunt.

If you’re wanting a stock look, as per like what Chrysler did, the OEM carb and intake are very good pieces. What the stock engines are really missing is compression and a cam. Even with a low compression engine, going a step up in cam size can still make good power while retaining good street manners.

318WR has a good example where he just swapped out the OEM heads for speedmasters and reused the OEM iron 4bbl IIRC. Even without a lot of rear gear, he turned in some pretty good time slips at the track.

The SM heads is an easy way to gain a little compression. It’s not a lot and cam size can’t jump to much. But even a small change will do really well for power. The biggest secrecy to power is in the cylinder head. The better it flows, the less cam you need to get to the power goal or ET at the track.

Are you thinking of headers as well?
 
Best of luck on the car hunt.

If you’re wanting a stock look, as per like what Chrysler did, the OEM carb and intake are very good pieces. What the stock engines are really missing is compression and a cam. Even with a low compression engine, going a step up in cam size can still make good power while retaining good street manners.

318WR has a good example where he just swapped out the OEM heads for speedmasters and reused the OEM iron 4bbl IIRC. Even without a lot of rear gear, he turned in some pretty good time slips at the track.

The SM heads is an easy way to gain a little compression. It’s not a lot and cam size can’t jump to much. But even a small change will do really well for power. The biggest secrecy to power is in the cylinder head. The better it flows, the less cam you need to get to the power goal or ET at the track.

Are you thinking of headers as well?
Thanks. I am thinking about using headers too, I looked at Doug's headers 1 5/8" they are pricey but seem to be a quality header. A friend of mine has them on his 360 in a 1974 dart sport and they fit good. Also I thought about using 3.55 gears and a converter to match the cam. I have to know what compression ratio I'll have
 
The engine won't be ran over 5500 rpm's.
So 5500 rpm is max so basically shift points, so peak hp around 5000 rpm making 1+ hp per cid?

They don't have to be aluminum, I was thinking about using a closed chamber heads so I can run the pistons at zero deck height or a little under. Is quench important for a daily driver?
Quench with zero deck pistons is gonna build fairly high compression ratio for probably small cam you'll run 216-226 ish. If go with a custom piston you could get quench and lesser cr.
Also what would be a good intake runner size? I was thinking a 170cc intake runner size.
If going aftermarket you only got a few choices basically speedmaster or edlebrocks.
 
They don't have to be aluminum, I was thinking about using a closed chamber heads so I can run the pistons at zero deck height or a little under. Is quench important for a daily driver? Also what would be a good intake runner size? I was thinking a 170cc intake runner size. The engine won't be ran over 5500 rpm's.

 
Thanks. I am thinking about using headers too, I looked at Doug's headers 1 5/8" they are pricey but seem to be a quality header. A friend of mine has them on his 360 in a 1974 dart sport and they fit good.

From the few times I have actually seen them and spoke to the owners of them, they looked very good in there and the fit was given a thumbs up. Everyone still bitches about installing headers though.
Also I thought about using 3.55 gears and a converter to match the cam. I have to know what compression ratio I'll have
I think 3.55’s are pretty good street gears good to go most anywhere. They will still rev a little high on the Hwy/Interstates, so it’s OK for a little while IMO, that’s just me.
 
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