pishta
I know I'm right....
This was a tough one but I managed. Pulling it was the normal procedure: thread 3 bolts and run the jackscrew into the crank end with an appropriate non-damaging tip. Run a breaker bar between 2 of the bolts and run it over to the frame rail to hold crankshaft. Now getting the **** on is another story: I found that my puller jackscrew was the same size as my bolt, 3/4-16 (?) and it tapered down to a 9/16 hex head on the end. So I took the bushing off the end and threaded it fully into the crank bore. I installed the balancer and pushed it on as far as it would go (engage the key) and then ran a 3/4 washer and a nut onto the threaded jackscrew and ran it down to the balancer. Take a ratchet and set to loosen, and fit over end of jackscrew. wedge it on right side rad drip rail so it will hold crank steady. Now turn the nut with a big crescent or open end wrench. The nut will press the balancer onto the crank nose with no other means to hold the crank steady except for the ratchet. Its tough work, grease up the threads and I had to use a 2 foot section of pipe on the end of the 10" crescent to get the necessary leverage to safely drive that baby on. It will eventually bottom against the slinger but once you find out how hard that thing is pressed on, you'll no longer wonder why they didnt even come with a bolt half the time. Once your bottomed, lift the ratchet and set to T, then back off the nut and the jackscrew will thread right out by hand, or very light wrenching. The purpose built installation tool is the same thing, and you could it with a long fully threaded 3/4-16 bolt too, but they are not that common.
