Dana 70

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canadian duster

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How overkill is a dana 70 rear end. I have an opportunity to pick up a dana 70 rear end (currently has dually axles),360 rv engine (want the block), 727 transmission (rv), plus a 70's winnebago haha. It wold be for my blown 360 75 duster.
 
How heavy is that thing? I always thought the Dana 60 was heavy until I saw some weights. It was about the same as an 8.75...I believe the 70 has 4" axle tubes in 1/2 inch tubing. They are $500 drum to drum on Ebay.
 
It takes some of the same internals as a 60 but the housing is much heavier and larger. Tubes are larger and the wrong size. Probably could trade a truck guy for a 60 that would be a better choice to do the conversion.
 
It depends on which Dana 70 it is. I have a 70-U and it has 3.5" axle tubes. It is under my rat truck, but staying dual wheel. There is the 70 HD that I think has the 4" tubes, but the 70-U is the same basic size and weight as the 60. Don't take a bunch of BS info. Go to the SOURCE.

Find the part number on your axle and enter it here:

The Expert Dana Holding Corporation Part Identification for Driveshafts, UJoints, Spicer, Dana, Drivelines

Just like the 60, there are SEVERAL different 70 axles, each with their own different characteristics. Most of them are NOT that big or heavy.
 
It depends on which Dana 70 it is. I have a 70-U and it has 3.5" axle tubes. It is under my rat truck, but staying dual wheel. There is the 70 HD that I think has the 4" tubes, but the 70-U is the same basic size and weight as the 60. Don't take a bunch of BS info. Go to the SOURCE.

Find the part number on your axle and enter it here:

The Expert Dana Holding Corporation Part Identification for Driveshafts, UJoints, Spicer, Dana, Drivelines

Just like the 60, there are SEVERAL different 70 axles, each with their own different characteristics. Most of them are NOT that big or heavy.
Konishiwa! VERY GOOOD! RRR!
 
The thing you got going for you when looking for a Dana axle is they are not rare. They are so common
If one doesn't have a track lok, power lok or Detroit
locker I won't give them a second glance even at scrap price unless it has a gear with the ratio I wish to use. That's because the limited slip differentials are expensive and without one you pretty much bought a bare housing that you still need to pay to modify. Even if you do the housing fab work yourself
you will need to obtain ends and perches. I cut these parts off 8 3/4 housings myself being cheap.
Best to start with an axle with a slip differential from the start. I like the power lok for a street car.
Of course if you were wanting to use a spool any housing with a usable tube length will do.
Here is a picture of a 60HD compared to a 70 pulled from the net. You can see what kind of extra mass
they can have. The dana 60HD shown has even more mass than the dana 60 that is generally used in cars. A couple things to note about using a Dana in a A body is they can be close to the stock fuel tank particularly when they are relocated reward to make clearance for tires to the front quarter opening. The truck axle tubes are also twice as thick and combined with the extra case weight of the HD60 or 70 adds to the unsprung weight. So when your car absorbs a bump in the road this mass reacts against the body weight of your A body. You dont have the weight of a truck to control this unsprung weight as well when installed in a lightweight duster.
Even if you found a 60 with a power loc it may not have the correct spline side gears for the axles you plan to use. This can add to the cost of doing a truck conversion also.
I am not posting this to discourage you. The opposite infact. I have built many truck Dana's and they can be very economical and strong both.
It does help to know how to pick an axle for your starting point to help keep cost down. I may look under 10 trucks in a yard before I find a decent start.
The last time I went I found four and got them for 75.
each. I cut the floater ends off with a torch and dropped off the axles and brakes before putting them in my truck. I jacked up a lot of trucks to find the ones that could be built on the cheap.

D70vsD60.JPG
 
This is a car Dana. You can see how much lighter the housing is than the 60HD in the photo above. Notice the extra web around the entire flange and going forward to the pinion. The car axles have lighter tubes also but the truck tubes will be fine on the cheap. Best to start with a 60 though if you are concerned about the weight. They are easy enough to find.

IMG_20160823_073015_222.jpg
 
Why? You have a 70 available for cheap. You said so yourself. Are you afraid of the weight? Seriously, You will be removing over 90% of the weight difference by removing the huge drums, hubs and brakes. I mean really man, they are splittin hairs here talkin about weight. Get the 70. It is there now and cheap. A truck 60 requires the same work to get ready and I bet the weight difference is less than 20 pounds between bare housings.
 
Rob I was just sharing my experience on how to pick up a used Dana and what to look for to keep the conversion cost down. Mentioning the weight is something a person should know so they can decide
where they want to spend their axle dollars because it is not cheap even if you start with a free housing.
This is not a shot at you or your 70. What you did with your truck is innovative and I always have respect for someone who is innovative and can think for themselves.
Installing a truck Dana in a duster is not really the same thing as installing duals and all into a pick up. It is much more involved and can cost a good amount if you don't have the tools and skills to handle the fab and set up work yourself.
Starting without a limited slip unit is going to increase the build cost by an average of 500.00 or more depending
on what differential you prefer. Then you have axles,
housing ends and perches, brakes, and some of the time bearings and seals on both the axles and carrier.
Is the gear that comes with the housing something you can live with. By the time your done you could have more in it than you could have bought a new Dana from strange if your not careful. The housing
is not where the main cost lies. This is why I look at them as scrap unless they have a usable gear or differential.
Its not the best plan to just pick up any old axle 60 or 70 and start thowing money at it. Know what you have and what it will cost first and decide if you are better to build or buy.
For me it is always build. But I have invested in the tools and am careful what I start with.
Rob is correct and you can spend your money on nearly any Dana 60 or 70 and get it to work. But chances are great you will end up with more in it than if you knew what to look for.
For example if you find one out of a old ford it may have the track loc with 30 spline side gears. Or a Chevy with a power lok and 35 spline axles. It cost 200.00 to 300.00 dollars extra to change out the side gears and likely clutch pack if you unknowingly started with a 16 spline unit.
Perhaps this info can help someone out there save a few bucks.
 
I understand that. What I was saying is, if he is going to install a truck 60 and has a truck 70.....they will be about the same install.
 
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