Dart shuts off when warmed up

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Sick_Six225

Sick_Six225

72 Dodge Dart Swinger
Joined
May 14, 2013
Messages
142
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3
Location
Clarksville TN
First time on here, I have a 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 225 Slant Six and a 3 speed transmission. I have not been driving the car much do to it not being my normal dailey driver but just started about a week ago when I took it out. When I would come to a stop the car wanted to die on me and also when I turned into my driveway. I was thinking it could be the Idle and maybe it was to low that when I was not on the gas it would shut off on me. Now when I go back to start it no problems it would start up no problem. Any Ideas?
 
You could try a complete tune-up, including timing check. Don't know how long its been sitting, but maybe the gas is no good.
 
I start it up once every week or two, also it has new gas inside of it and in the past year I have installed a new gas tank, fuel pump, fuel filter. I checked to make sure I have no leaks in it, that what i was thinking at first so I checked all vaccum hoses and also made sure that the carb was not loose. Timing was done by my father and also carb adjustmets but all I was thinking maybe the carb idle screw was to low and needed to be speeded up a little.
 
I think you need a tach and set the idle for whatever the sticker says. Probably 650. Put a vacuum gauge on it and see what it is doing. High vacuum at idle isn't totally necessary, but any fluctuations would not be normal.
 
I had the same problem where my Dart would stall after I had driven it for about 12 minutes. Turns out it was the voltage regulator. I'd replace that and see what happens. It's only about $20 and it probably could be replaced.
 
I will take a look at the volt regulator and see we're it gets me. Thanks a lot. I will keep you posted.
 
Yep I agree too , Voltage regulator
Also depending on the carburetor it could be a float setting issue , dirty fuel caught in the jets or simply a slightly blocked fuel filter.
The other reason is, it simply doesn't want to go home and wants you to drive her more. :)
 
I did just rebuild the Carb not that long ago and its all cleaned up and ready to go. The voltage regulator and ignition module are all new. If anthing it could be the two wires coming off of the Voltage regualtor. I did get a new plug for the voltage regulator and maybe the wires dont have a good grab off of it. Also 1967formulaS It does need to be driven more problem is here in Tennessee I can never get a nice day were its not going to rain but when it does get nice the Dart is out.
 
I'm not sure I understand the logic of a voltage regulator ....................
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm not sure I understand the logic of a voltage regulator ....................
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what ? comeon Del , you of all people should know when forward movement of the vehicle comes to a stop or makes left and right hand turns, a bad voltage regulator loses all charging volts and kills the engine. :banghead:
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm not sure I understand the logic of a voltage regulator ....................
Click to expand...

I was having the same thought, 67. But then 73 clarified it so well!

(NOT!!)

Heck it's got to be the flux capacitor!

And now, Sick_Six225 is figuring out about the leg pullin' that goes on here!

BC
 
73AbodEE said:
what ? comeon Del , you of all people should know when forward movement of the vehicle comes to a stop or makes left and right hand turns, a bad voltage regulator loses all charging volts and kills the engine. :banghead:
Click to expand...

So, this is why I see so many cars driving around in reverse.
 
Here's the thing, Sick_Six, with a "normal" good quality battery that is charged up, you should be able to start the car and drive around (in daytime) for HOURS with the alternator not working at all. I've DONE it. Had an alternator fail going from Vegas to San Diego one time. No big deal---we just shut off the AC, the radio, and the lights (daytime) and drove it home!!

On more modern cars with EFI, this might not go so well
 
Could the coil be going bad, I have had a coil on my truck be just fine until it warmed up... then it would shut down, I have seen ecu's do this also.
 
I checked out the new plug to the volt regulator and one of the wires that I connected to just pulled rite out so I am thinking a bad connection there. Tomorrow I going to start it up and let it run for a few and see what it does. Hoping that was the problem the hole time.
 
Ok I checked out the car and ran it and when looking at my volt gauge it was jumping up and down. I went to the alternator and pulled one of the wires off of it. Reason I did so was when I got this car the person prior had that wire pulled. I did the same thing today and in doing so my volts dropped down and was steady and running really smooth. I am not sure what's going on with this. My alternator has three ports on back. The power and the two other ones. I am not sure what is going on here all I know is I pulled that cord and its running smooth and volts are staying rite. Any ideas?
 
Sick_Six225 said:
Ok I checked out the car and ran it and when looking at my volt gauge it was jumping up and down. I went to the alternator and pulled one of the wires off of it. Reason I did so was when I got this car the person prior had that wire pulled. I did the same thing today and in doing so my volts dropped down and was steady and running really smooth. I am not sure what's going on with this. My alternator has three ports on back. The power and the two other ones. I am not sure what is going on here all I know is I pulled that cord and its running smooth and volts are staying rite. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

OK, you say "volts" but is that what you MEAN? Have you or someone replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter? And if so, how do you know it's correct?

I would measure the battery voltage with a multimeter, right at the battery.

What do you have for ignition, IE Mopar breakerless, HEI, aftermarket, MSD, etc, what? There has been issues with stuff like MSD interfering with the voltage regulator --or even the MSD interfering with itself!!

Tell us more about the wiring---original factory, factory equivalent re-wire, or aftermarket re-wire, as Painless, ETC.
 
Ok it's factory ignition module, volt regulator, coil, ext. now I say factory but they are all new parts no MSD. When looking at my volt gauge its jumping from middle all the way to the right. When looking at the back of the altanator I pulled the wire all the way to the left off and that is when my car stopper sounding like it wanted to die and started running normal and what sound toe healthy. I looked at the gauge in the car to see what the vault gauge was doing and it was steady in the middle. I have checked the battery with volt letter and it was good and charging.
 
I wounder if you have a an internal regulator alt. When the gage jumps to full right it is going to ground and pulling a full charge isn't it 67Dart273 :sign7:
 
I'm getting a full charge off of it. When that wire is plugged in the volts on the gauge are all the way to the right bouncing and then when I pulled it it dropped to center and car was running smooth.
 
I don't think this is ignition or electrical related. I think it's fuel. It runs until warm and then gives problems. It never fails to restart. At least that's what I am reading. Something electrical getting hot and breaking down will be either ON or OFF. It will get hot, cut off and not restart until it cools back down. Then, eventually it will cut off and fail to restart at all. THAT is electrical. What you're experiencing doesn't sound electrical or ignition.

The carburetor would be high suspect number one on my list. Doesn't matter how recently it was rebuilt. Doesn't matter who did it. Carburetors can just give problems and that's what it sounds like.

That said, what "I" would do first would be to make sure all of the tune up specs are right on the dot. Timing, idle speed, valve adjustment, manifold vacuum signal.....all of it. Most likely, you'll find something out of spec. Idle speed I bet. That could also be cause by low initial timing, so the timing would be my second suspect.

Just go through it one system at a time making sure it's all in spec and you'll find it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't think this is ignition or electrical related. I think it's fuel. It runs until warm and then gives problems. It never fails to restart. At least that's what I am reading. Something electrical getting hot and breaking down will be either ON or OFF. It will get hot, cut off and not restart until it cools back down. Then, eventually it will cut off and fail to restart at all. THAT is electrical. What you're experiencing doesn't sound electrical or ignition.

The carburetor would be high suspect number one on my list. Doesn't matter how recently it was rebuilt. Doesn't matter who did it. Carburetors can just give problems and that's what it sounds like.

That said, what "I" would do first would be to make sure all of the tune up specs are right on the dot. Timing, idle speed, valve adjustment, manifold vacuum signal.....all of it. Most likely, you'll find something out of spec. Idle speed I bet. That could also be cause by low initial timing, so the timing would be my second suspect.

Just go through it one system at a time making sure it's all in spec and you'll find it.
Click to expand...

But when he messes with alt wires he gets it to run smooth.
 
For whatever reason I missed that post.
 
I am starting to think that I have an internal voltage regulator in my alternator and that is the reason why the car is running smoother when not connected to the external voltage regulator. I been looking it up online and I believe my alternator do to being an aftermarket alternator from autozone I believe that is the reason why the car started up running smoother when the wire was disconnected from the alternator.
 
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