Dash harness replacement and upgrade.

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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Found a wire burnt up through my whole harness. Yellow wire from bulkhead to headlight buzzer connector. Traced it back and someone had spliced it to the red wire leading to the tail lamp harness. Headlight switch connector was melted and found multiple shadetree splices and melted insulation throughout. After having to unrap it all under the dash I feel like it's not worth saving.
I bought a nice used harness from a member and enough brand new connectors to replace all bulkhead and headlight connectors with a few to spare. I will be bypassing the amp guage and running 10ga through the two empty slots in the bulkhead for power wires.
Trying to decide the best way to tie the ammeter wires together without snipping them. May add a voltmeter but not sure if I want to put it in the cluster or in a pod.
Also want to add a fuseblock to power my auxillary guages, MSD, electric vacuum pump and electric fan relays and relays for the headlights.

Just looking for some good ideas and tips on how to get this accomplished cleanly without removing my dash altogether.
 
Easiest is put both red & blk leads on the same ammeter terminal. In addition, you can run a ~6 awg bypass wire from alt+ to Batt+ (or starter relay stud). That will keep the large battery recharge current out of the cabin. Search "MAD Bypass".

Several of us here installed an underhood relay/fuse box from a later vehicle. See my "Modernized Engine Wiring ..." thread, where I used one from a 95-99 Jeep. Or you can buy a new $$$ aftermarket one. Either way, you must customize the wiring. 2000+ cars tended to use boxes w/ connectors that might be harder to retrofit.
 
BillGrissom said:
In addition, you can run a ~6 awg bypass wire from alt+ to Batt+ (or starter relay stud). That will keep the large battery recharge current out of the cabin.
Click to expand...

Already done this as well as a headlight relay kit from Crackedback.
Will look into the Jeep box. Thanks!
 



Now all I need is time to off work to swap all the connectors and a get it snaked in. Might wait until I can afford a new fuse block...depending on how easy it would be to add with the harness in place vs. on a bench.
 
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Ok... BIG THANKS to TXDart...I now have a Painless Wiring Cirkit Boss 7 circuit fuse block kit pn 70107.
3 constant hot and 4 key on.

I am off for the weekend and need to formulate my plan to get started tomorrow.

Currently I have too much stuff running off my starter relay and spliced into my dash harness.

Electric vacuum pump.
Electric fans on relays.
Dakota Digital fan controller mounted on lower firewall above headlight foot switch..
Tach and guage lights.
Headlight relays.
Electric choke.

If any of you have done this or can help me decide the best way to route this I would love to hear it. Pics of your installation would be welcome also.

I have heard the female terminals of the dash harness could be cleaned with a vinegar and water solution followed by a baking soda and water solution. Is it worth trying vs swapping all those connectors?
They are so small, will normal ratchet type crimpers work well on them?

Thanks for any advice.
 
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Using vinegar/salt bath then baking soda/water. Dipping each connector in the acid for 5-30 minutes and then swish, then swish around in soda bath. They come out looking pretty much brand new. Had to change the soda water half way through from all the crap coming out.
Next I guess I'll go over them real well to make sure nothing is left in the females and dress them all with dielectric grease.
 
Couple questions-

I'm gonna drill out the bulkhead connector and run 10ga for the red and black wires. What amp fuse should I replace the fusible link with?

The harness I got is slightly different. I had to add the ac harness into the bulkhead connector, and will have to run a wire for console lighting. The switch for the passenger door has two female connectors on my old harness, where the new one has only one. What do I need to do about that?

Can anyone identify what year the new harness is from my pic above?

Thanks.
 
Better pics of the door switch differences. The new harness is up top.

Why would one have only one yellow and the old has two?

 
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My old harness doesn't have the two slot bar connector right under the fuse block. What is it?

 
More pics of new harness. Some wires in the fuseblock are different colors also.



 
After poking around wiring diagrams it looks like the new harness is post-1973.

I think I can just add a ground wire for the door switch. Might have to modify it a little more but pretty sure I can make it work since I have all the right connectors.
 
Trying to unclutter my starter relay.
I need to turn three terminals on the relay post into one-
power my fans, vacuum pump and headlight relays.
Hoping to find a terminal lug or something to hide under the battery tray. Anyone know whats best to use?
What guage wire should I run to the starter relay post from these combined connections?
 
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Man... I was starting to think I'd go blind reading wiring diagrams!
Well, it's all back together, and ...........








...........everything works!
BIG thanks to TXDart for the BRAND NEW loaner Painless fuseblock and DOHCEclipse for a good deal on a real nice factory harness.

Hit a small snag when I couldn't get any brake lights or a turn signal on the rear passenger side. Traced everything testing power from the column connector back and all had power...was convinced it was a rear bulb socket or a bad ground...turned out the brake master cylinder pushrod was not seated correctly, not allowing the switch full travel. Not sure why it affected the turn signal, but it's fine now. Just thought I'd post my resoloution because I searched for threads with the same symptoms, and there were tons, but very few where they actually shared the answer to thier problem.

Good luck to anyone else with electrical issues searching for answers!
Wiring is a *****!
 
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